stony

is there any special prep i would need to do to a stock fuel tank before welding on it? i want to mod it with a rear sump with -8 pickup and return lines. For some reason im thinking just rinsing it out isnt gonna be enough to ensure its clean enough to weld on without going BOOOOMMM!!!!

if all you want is more gas... 2 additional injectors should be fine say 550cc or so and there are alot of cheap AIC out there to control them... sds has one too.

scottie is that resonable wieght for a 240? or am i getting bad info? i would hate to go out and get a 240 and find it not that much lighter then a 260

looked at terry's page and that a perfect example of what im talking about. 2200 lbs!!!! if i could wack 500lbs of my z im thinking that would make a considerable difference. just think about how the family truckster performs when you add 3-4 extra people in the back... im thinking maybe a .5 sec gain in 1/4 mile times. Allthough for a .5 sec gain in my car i could dump some money into a new turbo setup and cams a get it i just like the sound of getting into the 10s on a stock engine with stock booste

well the car allready has a custom paint job that i dont want to mess with other wise fiberglass fenders headlights, hatch, doors would be an option. that right now is the only thing else i can see to remove weight. and i dont have the cage in yet. the interior consist of 2 stock seats. (could be changes) and a gutted dash so not much weight to be saved there. when ever i get to leave alaska i may try and pickup a 240 shell and swap everything over then convert to v-8 or stock L engine and sell the red 260z but thats a ways off.

wow using some of the calculators on the net if i lost 300-400 lbs i could shave over a 1/2 sec of my 1/4 time does this sound right? currently weighs 2700 with driver..... 1/4 in 11.138 @ 121mph = 380 rwhp drop weight down to 2400 and the calculator says my 1/4 mile time should improve to a 10.8 @ 125 mph!!!!! that is almost worth swapping to a 240 shell drop it down to 2200 and its at 10.5 129 mph!!!! and this is still on the stock rb26dett motor HP!!!! boy i wish i was somewhere that 240s were a little more available

it can be done. Ive seen it done on high horsepower applications. i was considering taking the intake manifold from a triple carb set up and welding injector bungs. You can use some engine management setup to control all the injectors or use something like sds to control the primaries adnd some type of additional injector controller for the others. to add that much fuel though youd need quite and engine to use it all. even if you stayed with all stock size injectors.

in an earlier post i said my car weighed 2850 lbs that was wrong... i forgot i had an extra diff (80lbs) and a big bag of parts (40lbs), plus i removed the entire heater/blower (under the dash) assy (40-50lbs) so im actually looking like 2700 + or - a few pounds. how much would a similar 240z weight??? bascially gutted with seats dash and cage and say a turbo L motor? Ive been seeing some weighing in in the 23-2400 lb range. with the same drivetrain would this be a substaintial increase in performance? would it be worth the time and effort to swap a low 11 sec rb26dett drivetrain to a 240z to get it into the tens??? stony

Ok i know a couple guys have removed the core supports in favor of a couple of tubes welded in place to hold the radiator, but is there any structural issues to consider. what i mean do you have to weld a certain way or just connect where the top and bottem of the old core support was ? I would like to do this as it would be alot easier to mount everything up there a little bit closer and have more room to run intake tubing. stony

Scottie, no push here but you said documented??? do you have it up on the page? i really would like to see what it will take to get that in the rearend in the car. If its not on the web can you email me with it. although the 9 inch is on teh backburner still gathering info on the vette irs and jag irs. thanks dude

Hi Aaron what do you want????? is it a street driven car or a trailer race car???? it looks like 400rwhp will get you low 11s maybe 10s in your case with the big tires you can run. do you have pics of your car you can email or post somewhere? id like to see detailed pics of the rear suspension. thanks stony

i need a set of 15x9 or whatever is the closest without going over.... i can figure it out but if somebody has allready gone down that road it would be easier ;> also considering 16 inch autodrags are they available??? if so sizes and offsets for those too ;> rock on dude ;> stony

from whay ive seen and still relatively unique 510 equals rotary power ;>

In your case i would deal with no one but matt!!!!! he is the S^&T he has alot of connections and can get parts usually alot cheaper then the local guys. If he says he can do it ,,, he can ,,, and it will be done well at any rate you are prabably the only v-8 Z on the island unless some japanese has one hidden somewhere and when word gets out and american has one if there are any they will come out ;> you are in my boat right now;> you have a american engine in japan.. i have a japan engine in USA rock on dude <<<< i like this one ;> l8rz

the way ive been schooled on this is this... the more solid parts you put into the driveline the less cushion there is to absorb hard launches and shifts. there for if you install all solid mounts the next in line to break is the diff and tranny unless you upgrade then too;> I dont think breaking the diff housing itself is an issue its the diff and gears that will break, and not because you have a solid front and urethan rear mount. I think you would rip the front mount out of the frame if anything happened

hey this is cool found this on the zhome.com page about the rb engines ;>

hey if you watch the hybridz vid there is a yellow 240 with alot of white patches...thats not paint its fiberglass. everything on that car is fiberglass except the shell, doors, hatch, hood, fenders, 2 seats and a dash with some gages. And no roll bar just pillar struts ;> i betcha that car is down there. and its a daily driver .. this guy drives it to and from work everyday

hey i lost the link to those guys what was it again

dont forget about the driveshaft

sounds good... is the rb25 pan and rb30 sump a rear sump type? if not you cant use it... the only one i know that will fit is the z-31 rb20 oil pan and the sump will have to be custom made unless you use a rb25 block. but i may be wrong as ive never seen the rb30 sump

hey it also looks like you had plenty of room for the turbo

hey looks good. i have a question though... Is the 7M mounted straight up and down in teh supra??? i thought it had a little lean to it like the L motors and rb motors have.... Its not good to mount an RB or L motor in anything striaght up and down because of oil return issues in the head. I know nothing about the 7m thats why im asking. if so that looks like a really straight fwd swap ;>... how youd do the driveshaft? custom. The lean info was given to me by several tuning shops in japan in case your wondering.

emergency brake wasnt set was it? mine almost fall off then again ive had mine off many times in the past couple of years.

ok now i dont like it as much seeing it from teh front.... he used the modern widebody approach in the rear then oldschool flared the front fenders... no offense to anyone if this is there car but i think doing the widbody theme on the front would have be way cool. when i say widebody i mean start the front fenders about 12-24 inches into the door as the rear 1/4 did I still love the car just i wouold have done it a littel different something like Blueovalz front would match this car better then its current look still an awesome car though

looking at those pics that is more then flares... the doors are wider and check out the rocker panels!!!!!!