stony

Car just went to the body shop. We are going to bang heads on the best way to do it. but one way or another to give strength to the body, the wheel tubs will have to be welded to the body. The steel panels WILL have to be cut to accommodate the tires. Any suggestions are more then welcome.

Hope so I'm also considering sending the converter in to get it restalled. right now its way too low and i cant get it to boost without NOS. shift at 9.5K and rpm drops back down to around 6K if i launch at a higher rpm and keep the rpms higher throughout the run it should make huge improvements.

On the trailer going to paint shop All the parts sealed. Base coat applied to parts Clear coat applied. Cant believe i may have a car ready to put back together in a month or so !!!!!

Congrats. BTW is your car orange?

As compared to my car before.

orany other car for that matter? here is the paint code. crappy pick. comparing my original color to this color it looks like it is the next step in the color swatch when you put them next to each other. Picked up the paint this weekend and it looks a lot more orange then red.

Got the other side stripped down. i don't know what kind of paint was on that 1/4but it basically melted and gummed up the sandpaper. so i just zip stripped it.

yes... 2 ways either make a curved flange that will be welded to both the inner wheel tub and the outer skin, or like you mentioned cutting little slits and folding each individual slit under and welding it. I'm not concerned how it looks because like mentioned above i'm installing subtle Z 1/4s over it.

OK here is a better pic of what I'm planning on doing. i have no inner structure that is connected to the outer skin i plan on cutting to the masking tape line then folding under the metal to weld to the wheels tubs which are welded to the chassis. I'm thinking once i do that and bond the fiberglass fender in with panel glue everything will be good. just want to get some opinions. The upper line is the fold line and the lower line is the cut line.

Prepped left rear for the subtle z 1/4s. There was a crap load of bondo in the fenders. glad i decided to do that vs bonding them to the existing stuff. some of the bondo actually broke off as i was grinding!!! Also got some of the front striped of undercoating (this stuff is a BIATCH!!!) and teh dor jams are ready for primer. All the other parts are primed and ready for final sanding and paint. once those get painted the shell goes over.!!!!

with the new subtle Z rear 1/4s the wheels in this pic will now fit :2thumbs:

all the pieces ready for primer!!! should be done by the end of the weekend. then we start on the shell!!!

even better

If you haven't laid down cash yet i would seriously consider the TTT rear struts and use the larger r230 with CV axles from a gtr or Z31. unless you can find larger stub axles they WILL break at the track.

Sorry if you mentioned it already. but what are you doing with the rearend. ???

Yep exhaust housing hits. I had to grind a tad off

an absolutely bone stock rb26 will make more then enough power to make anyone happy. it would cost you more to build a rb25 then the difference in price would justify. plus more would be interested in the 26 then the 25. just my 2 cents.

That is how i plan on doing mine. But with a back halve car with huge tubs mine will go a lot higher. my car also has most of the inner structure removed. i was just worried if i took too much out it would the back of the car weak. but if i weld it up to the tubs that should compensate for that right??? the body no longer is a structure the tube frame is. so im thinking it will be alright. here is what it looked like before

Well my car is a tube chassis drag car. Its connected to the body along the rocker door jam and in the rear of the car. Im going to install subtle Z 1/4's. what I want to do is just like most people do when going with overfenders. cut out the unneeded part of the 1/4 fold it under and weld it to the wheel tub. my problem is the wheel tubs go very high on the body. in the pic below i want to cut to the lower black line and fold the sheet metal under and weld it to the tub. the tub is all welded in and it should make the body more rigid. more so then just adding the frp panel. opinions? too much to remove? Oh BTW got the first 1/4 75% welded in

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/645045/1973-datsun-240z This is the way to do a chop on a z!!!! looks like the blue one above didn't lean the windshield back. IMHO if you chop you have to lay back the windshield or it doesn't look right. and the blue car is a perfect example of that!!!

Is there a difference? i have one that came from a 280. your talking the wiper panel right?

subtle Z quarters are here. should start body and paint within a month. cant wait to get this thing painted.

It leaked because its bad. rebuild/replace/upgrade it.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=55130 Thats what i useds. Havent driven it yet so have no idea how it will ride.