stony

That almost looks like an ad that i went and looked at a couple years ago when i lived in anchorage. the exhaust housing was suited more for a big block v-8 and the compressor looked like it came off a import. whichever it came off of or what application it was used for i passed.... as mentioned above the exhaust housing is way to big for the compressor.

Welcome to the club looks good.

Well my time in afganistan has come to en end and i will be home soon. hope to going full speed on the red car and get it running quick. Still have lots to do its almost over overwhelming. anyways more pics to come as i get stuff done. just a reminder... the black car is still for sale ;< its in teh for sale section.

good luck should be pretty easy.... i ran 11.1 @ 127 using BFG DR 680 cc injectors, 15PSI on stock turbos and stock GTR intercooler

Some come with flat glass mirror and some come with convex mirror. The convex (things are clsoer then the seem) are easier to see out of then the flat glass mirros. As stated above you have zero blind spot with them if they are adjusted right

WOW!!!!!

Pretty sure that is not a rb26 intake. if it is it has been heavily modified.

Im in afganistan and internet here sucks. i usually just browse and jes it's been slow all over.

I used the kit lines in combination with some metric lines i bought at autozone. cut the metric tubing slipped off the fitting and re-flanged the line lock lines with metric ends on the ends they needed to be on. worked great. the one side off the line lock goes to ground and the other gets power... they are really simple to wire. i had power going thru a button mounted on my shifter.

among all the other pics here this is one of my favs

From tthe looks of the hood and front air dam something tells me you are hauling a$$ in that pic.

Good idea. good luck with the build

Unless your turning 9K plus rpm the n1 will work. But of course the tomei will work better.

There is no oil pan that is oem that fits in the Z without modifications.

3 ways on here i have seen people sell them. find a Nissan dealer and the correct part number to order or go to japan or have someone in japan order them for you or get them from a junkyard in japan. Here are some keywords to assist in your search. rb20 z31 200zr japan engine mounts

in this pic it is just forward of the front fuel rail mount directly below the watermark S in secret. just jack that side of the car up a bit, remove the bolt and fill with the car running till it starts spitting water. you will have to do several times till you get a steady flow.

there is a small 10mm bolt on teh balance tube you can use to do this. it should have a little sticker next to it. its a couple inches behind the thermostate onteh top of teh motor right next to the valve cover. it is where most people tap into for a one of those over flow cans.

Yes rb20 z31 mounts fit. not vg mounts. in japan the z31 came with and rb20 turbo.

Haven't heard of anyone doing the touch screen yet. And there are a couple kits out there. Castlemine rod shop makes one. Mckinney motorsports and maybe one other. Use teh search function in the RB section it is very helpful:mrgreen:

OK i got the drivers door back on... DON'T EVER REMOVE THE HINGES FROM THE CAR THEN SEPARATE THEM FROM THE DOOR!!!! Also the left 1/4 is tacked on just needs final welding, grinding and body work. then on to the other side. I only have 3 weeks till i leave for AFGAN and there is no way im gonna get this thing done. So i will hit it up when i come back in June and hope to have it running by the end of the summer.

What are you looking for My black car in my signature is a rolling shell now and for sale. I would also deliver for fuel cost round trip.

Anyone have a set of these that they could fill in the measurements on the sheet? A. Caliper Overhang Distance Used to determine if wheel dish is adequate (in some cases a spacer is required for clearance) B. Diameter of Hub Center Required if wheels are hub centric C. Wheel Stud Diameter Required along with bolt circle D. Height of Hub Center E. Length of Lug and Thread Type (Fine or Coarse) Required to determine if longer studs are necessary F. Distance from CL of Hub to Caliper Used with A to determine if a spacer is required for proper fitment G. Width of Caliper Used with F to determine if wheel ID is adequate to clear rotor/caliper package H. Diameter of Hub Mounting Face Used to determine if hub is adequate to support wheel/spacer Also does this setup put the rotor face in the stock location??

Well cant say its done but its progress. The left side is ready to weld up and do body work. Now that i have a heater in the garage i can get back to work. these little propane heaters are awesome.

WOW:shock: