stony

I have heard some guesstimates, just wondering if anyone has "REAL" numbers on how much HP is lost to turning a power glide vs a manual tranny. For example if i were making 600 at the wheels with a power glide how much would it might be if i was running a 5 speed? The reason i ask is i was under the impression a glide was more efficient then a manual. But now im hearing i could be loosing as much as 100HP. The reason this concerns me is if my motor was built to handle say 800 and i try to get 750 with a glide i would actually be pushing 850 and thats way beyond what the motor or i can handle :> Thanks

Thanks for the grammer check

No i said "Too" oil pan needs modded and oil pickup....it has been laid out numerous times in the forum.

Correct...... pickup needs modified too. Thats what i did.

I'll trade ya :> J/K

What are the torque values on the aftermarket bolts? any references online? I will be checking mine today i hope.

It's a pretty slim chance on the head coolant mod causing it. Only thing i could see is if it were drilled wrong and breached the intake runner. My issue is either the HG got corroded and is now bad from sitting so long or the head bolts just need a retorque. time will tell. I can actually see where the water is exiting under the head. If the cylinders are number 1 from the front and 6 in the back its exiting around the 4 and 5 cylinder.

First I apologize for no video but here are the results of last nights initial dyno tuning. First the SSA 60mm WG worked fine and held 22 PSI with no problem. The cheapo eBay intercooler kept the IAT @ less the 85F and the TIAL knockoff didn’t leak a bit. First run the spring that came in the waste gate out of the box held 14.8 PSI. And the motor made 450rwhp I tightened the adjustment screw and got it to hold 22 PSI as stated above. Once it was tightened down and a few runs later the motor made 600rwhp At 22 PSI, rev limited at 7800!!! Bad news is it looks like its lifting the head. I’m going to go back in and check the torque. It has Jun head bolts and this shouldn’t be happening but then again this is still the initial break-in period and motor has sat for 2+ years since it last ran. Worst case I have a HG to change. The motor was not running hot and other then leaking some antifreeze and pressurizing the radiator it ran great. More to come…

Well got the carpet out of it to clean her up and OMFG the inside of the rockers, and the floors are pretty much gone. the front SU carb is just dumping gas into the motor to the point that fuel is bubbling out of the exhaust gasket!!! I guess now the only really good thing is this is a complete bone stock 240z with all the original stuff still in good shape. looks like someone before me bought brand new bumpers for the car because they are immaculate!!! the brackets are still black with the OEM stockers on them

HMMMMM i read and searched and thought i understood that the late model 260 door strikers were different then the early 260's and 240's??? well i have 2 260s and a 240 and the doors are all the same :> oh well

well the front clip is mounted minus the hood fasteners and some extra bracing. Hood off. Hood on. Hopefully with any luck we will have it on the dyno this weekend and have some numbers. Still have to wire up the gages and some other minor stuff but all in all the big stuff is done

Any specs on the type a sheet metal that one should use to make thier own pans?

Not if the black 240 was actually a 240. My red one is a late model 260 and has different strikers. the black one is also a late 260 with the same strikers. Just never took the time to look since i thought my black car was a 240:bonk:

OK here's an update. My red doors from the unfinished 260 fit on the black 240 because well it’s not a 240 it’s a 260 :> So now all that needs to be covered up is the rocker and a small bit right in front of the rear wheel. That will be a lot easier then first thought. A small graphic that will match the red and black is what is going to happen. I will post pics when I get more ideas.

Ok confusion sorted out. Seems my black car is not a 240 like I thought it’s a 260. So YEAAAAA!!!! My doors off the red car will work. Now all I need is a wiper motor setup and I will be legal for king of the street here in Alaska

You are correct just looked at teh door jam 01/70!!!! I will post some pics sometime this week. it's in ok shape. I imagine if i get to tearing it apart i will find lots more rust.

Time to start shopping for another rb26 :>

Well i got the Z home and well the floors are gone. but shouldnt hurt to drive it for a while. Get this iTs HLS30-000898 Does that mean anything to anyone???? Is it worth anything?

Wow you even busted the half shaft. I got away with breaking 3 ujoints before screwing up a shaft I have concluded that manual's are allot harder on the ujoints then an automatic. The TTT setup is really kickass and should cure allot of people problems without having to go solid rear-end.

wrong thread

Haven't actually seen the car in person just what you see in the picks. going to pick her up tomorrow. I will either fix it up a tad and drive it or part it out and keep stuff i need for the red Z.

Couldnt pass this one up. Cant really afford another car right now nor do i have the space for it but i couldnt pass this one up for 1000 bux!!!! What do you guys think? Floors have a couple holes and im sure the battery holder is rusty, but its all stock and everything is there and in good shape plus it runs well. Going to use it as a daily driver vs the 1 tom dually gas guzzler.

http://www.theoldone.com/components/cylinderheads/skyline/

Any no kiding in writing references. The guy is reading the title to me and it reads 1974 240z. Either the tirle is wrong or they made 240z in 74

Oh crap i was thinking methanol. thats alot more expensive isnt it? Is e-85 corrosive like meth?