stony

This has been posted before but i cant find it... Im bored so here it is again

I have found the original oem ujoints lasted the longest. the "hollow" greaseable ones seamed to be the weakest.

The intercooler i have is the 4 inch thick, 12 inch tall, and 24 inch wide core. With this one if you cut off the inlet and outlet that the end tanks come with and weld on some 90s they point right at the openings in the stock Z core support that the tubing need to go Thru. That is one of the reasons i went with the cheapo initially was if i had to cut i didn't want to buy a 1500 intercooler, cut on it and mes it up :> But since its working fine i will keep it for now :>

I got the boost controller and af/knock amp. Its a wide-band that can also monitor knock with the stock knock sensors. You can even listen to it with a set of headphone.!!!!

You can find them on ebay every now and again. Or if you have a friend you can get them any day of the week off of japan yahoo. The sensor that is.

DAMN dude if you can get the ujoints out i would keep them... That is the first time i have ever seen the shaft itself break and not the ujount or the journals around the ujoints!!!

Location Track/Metering Device:1/4 Weather/Lane Conditions: Sunny 70F heated 60foot concrete Reaction Time: .790 60 Foot Time: 1.936 1/8th Mile Time:7.108 1/4 Mile Time:11.284 Trap Speed:127.67 Vehicle Details Chassis/Year:1974 260Z Brief Engine Description:Stock rb26 with 680cc injectors, SDSefi EMS, 15PSI Exhaust: 60mm downpipe into 90mm custom kakimoto exhaust Clutch: HKS GD MAX seq twin Brief Suspension Description:AZC coilovers Additional Power Adders:NA Peak Positive Pressure (PSI): 15PSI Transmission Type:R33 5 Speed Final Drive Ratio: 4:11 Tire Size: 225x50x15 Tire Model/Compound:BFG DR Estimated/Tested Wheel Horsepower:392 rwhp DYNO PAK tested Estimated/Tested Vehicle Weight:2750 wet Rb26 260Z 240Z

Nope this is a greedy

The r-200 is a bolt in swap but the input flange will be different. I had to change the r-200 Datsun input to an input flange that matched the car i took the drive shaft from. Worst case they will have to redo the one end of the shaft.

Holy crap thats awesome!!!

I'm going into the low 9s and i anticipate no problems. It does add some rigidity to the block but from what i understand not having the 26 oil pan on it is no problem.

Are these the ones on ebay right now?

Those pics of that car have been floating around the INTERNET for years. I wouldn't be surprised if that was a scam. I would hope that if someone was putting that car for sale they would at least have some quality pics.

Thanks Braapp Really appreciate it.

2nd day it... if i caught you in time Thanks again

If they are new rims i wouldn't be surprised if you lost a weight. Happens all the time. I say start with a balance then do the alignment. Unless it all in one cost. Usually the alignments is more expensive.

BRAPP I sent you a PM did you get it??? I want your gasket my friend didnt have it.

Says he already got an alignment..... I don't think the shake has anything to do with the steering rack.

If your steering wheel is shaking you either have a bent wheel or the wheels need to be balanced.

Hey guys came across this site looking for transmission info. It's a great site on drag racing and cars in general.

That is exactly what i was getting at. Just pretty used to that being the first thing you upgrade when going turbo. Not so much to hide a bad tune.

I have a friend here in alaska that may have one. I will know today in about 6 hours. If not i will take it... I will PM you by the end of the day

Got the new carbs on now all i need is an intake gasket.... anyone have one they want to get rid of? Seems i will have to special order it up here in Alaska:icon53:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CXRacing-Intercooler-4-thick-Supra-Mustang-S13-F150_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ010QQitemZ200209574309QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW