Silent

don't be cheap with nitrous. that is the last place to be cheap, because one screw up, it's done. i have run nitrous on a lot of my cars, and my 3.1 is going under the knife, and comming out a fire breathing monter with no less then a 75hp shot. BUT the fuel system will also support over 700 hp. im doing a direct port, two fuel pumps, two regulators all the fun stuff. just get a fuel solemoid, nitrous solenoid. lines, blah blah, two fogger nozzles. IE a 300zx twin turbo wet kit. you can stick them in the thick 240 insulators on the carbs, or drill and tap the air horns, and run them inside the air filters.

MSa/zcarparts.com

i couldn't find any 1.25 in aeroquip, mr gasket, russle, or earls. but i did find 1.50 2 bucks for both from mr gasket. so if they are wrong, im not losing that much

get a real water injection kit, like aquamist. don't be cheap like all the other clowns who have it on their cars, and cry because lines break, pumps go out all the time. i never had one problem with my aquamist kit. don't use the fuel injector, for one, thats way too much cc of water to be spraying into the motor. it takes a lot less then that

the letters are a bitch to polish with the paint perfect on the rest of it. i learned the hard way from my valve cover

just enough to be cool? dunno, i was kickin the idea around, because i can get it for less then 200 bucks. but then again. a factory oem pump is what? 30 bucks?

see, i heard other wise, from someone who runs one on their daily driver. guess i should ask the v8 crowd too

nissan afms' get pissy about 12 psi {maxima, z32, z31} they have been known to blow up at 12 psi {on the maxima, IE vq30 series} at almost 300 a pop, it gets expensive. if you are dead set on a vented bov, do a stand alone.

well, along with the cool, and hp gains. im going for the ease of work. less moving parts for me, the better, hence why i like carbs on z cars better then efi. i was probably going to do the usual on off switch type set up, rather then a variable resistance type set up, or just put it in line with my msd fuel pump switch, for less clutter. main reason, more power. cheaper belts

hmmm damn. 500 hp pathfinder 4wd drag radials on all corners. this sucker would be quick!

anyone runnin this sucker yet? im thinking about doing it when i get the new head and some other goodies on the car. less drag on the crank, yada yada, more power yada yada.

are they using the pathy heads too? ie long block, or just the short block and the intake manifold?

soo. in thinking, the 93-95 vg pathy blocks should be the same in general right? or did nissan do the trick of getting cheap again. have always thought about putting a turbo on my pathy, but just wasn't sure how it stacked up to the z31t bottom end. let alone getting a tranny to hold it {auto is nice for traffic}

i get an fittings and metric fittings through aeroquip, russell, mr gasket, and earls through my work. so whats what i was wondering. i know someone has to have changed these out

a friend of mine typed that out, and told me about it, because i know at least 6 people who have eatin cams this year in our small racing community. just figure id pass it on. this would explain the number of msa cams going flat as well.

Due to recent EPA regulations on motor oil, the oil manufactuers have dropped the zinc content in SAE certified motor oil. Zinc burns up over time and turns to ash which leads to increased emissions. Newer model cars with OHC's and roller style cams do not have any problems with these changes. Unfortunately, older engines with flat tappet cams need the zinc to properly lube the camshaft. You see, zinc additives in oil help lube direct metal to metal contact when it occurs. I have been hearing these stories for a little while about flat tappet cams going flat and set out to find the truth. I emailed Royal Purple, Valvoline, Quaker State, Castrol, and Penzoil. I copied the same email to Comp Cams and Crane Cams. Everybody but Penzoil replied, and they all had the same response. They all recomend using a racing grade oil with flat tappet cams. A few companies told me that it was imperative that I switch from standard oil. Even Royal Purple told me that thier sae approved synthetic oil was not enough to protect a flat tappet cam. Racing grade oil contains more zinc than current formulations of SAE approved motor oils. This is to help metal to metal contact that occurs at high rpm and long duration high heat races. Everyone I contacted told me that these oils ensure the life span of flat tappet cams. The high zinc content has been shown to shorten catalytic converter life, and possibly shorten the life of O2 sensors, so you get to make the choice on which you want to replace. Screw in O2 sensors are easy and relatively cheap, and catalytic converters are not that bad either. I know which ones I will take the risk on. To date, I have not found an oil additive that will replace the zinc that is designed for prolonged use. Many break in supplements and cam break in lubes have a high zinc content, but thier manufacturers do not recomend thier use past the first part of new engine break in. Don't take my word for it, research it yourself. I'm just here to make sure you guys have heard about the situation. just bit of info for those who keep eating cams

alrighty, the bango / eye bolts that supply the fuel to the carbs. i was told they are 6an fuel fittins WRONG! i have two -6 fittings and they go no where to fitting in there. is it a metric fitting? what size? crimping down -6 line looks like *** under the hood when the rest of the fittings are nice and pretty

um, unless it's a series one, they are all the same rear window

anyone stuck some mitsu/chrysler conquest/starion seats in their z? im just winderiung about fitment. the 22 inches wide. it seems they would fit, and they lookto be in decent shape. was just curious

flush the oil system. looks like there is some metal floating around in there

hmmm i may have found one that will work total diameter is 5 7/16ths inside diameter is 3 3/4 pad thickness is 5/8ths total thickness is 1 1/8th lil random insulator from energy suspension

mom {weird callin ya that, but im gonna go with it} that would be great!!

paul, what would it cost me to do a fuel rail, for the su's feed in, feed for front carb, feed for rear carb, fuel return, im looking for something to clean up the fuel lines in the engine bay because that is EXACTLY what im looking for.

i've got the 280zx rear conversion, still runnin 14 inch wheels on the rear without any issues. other then the rear locks before the front. which makes some interesting auto-x events. i haven't modded the cables for the e-brake to work. then again, it's been about a year now since i did the full suspension and brake swap.

rear coils, 240/260z. lets say eibach springs im looking to buy some energy suspension insulators to raise the *** end up a tad bit {those who have seen the pics of my car understand} basically I.D. and O.D. if anyone has any springs layin around much appreciated!