DaleMX

The axles are from a 1988 300ZX . Plenty stout according to Ross.

Humm, good point. I hate fire.

I say spring, but you know how it goes with conversions. I plan on driving it all summer to figure out all the bugs so I can work on it again next fall and winter. Then I'll start some body work. I hope the engine runs ok and that the wiring doesn't crap out on me before I have the chance to replace it all. The engine has 28,000 on it, but I have never run it. The compression is good but the previous owner didn't change the oil much. I put a different set of heads on it, a cam, a timing chain, oil pump, rockers, springs, retainers, and pushrods. I have a new clutch and flywheel to get installed and then I'm ready to put it in. I bought the companion flanges from Ross for the CV upgrade, and am going with a 175/225 coilover setup with illumina's. Wheels are most likely Konig Moonsoons 16 X 7, with 205 55's in the front and 225 50's in the rear. Along with that I have a 6 pt roll bar and front and rear strut supports to try to keep it straight until I can re-enforce the frame. To go along with the CV's I have a 3.7 clutch style LSD. I dont plan on having all that stuff installed before driving the car. I'll get it on the road and mod as I go.

I think this is the route I'll take with mine. Since it's an LS1 I can run the fuel line into the back and exit from the other side. I guess that I would have to run flex from the manifold to where ever the lines end up. 3/8" should be a good size for the feed, and 1/4 for the return. I guess I'll be venting through the original lines.

Mike PM'd me. They are going to post these issues on their web page with the headers so all will know. Thanks Mike! Mike has always responded fast to me and is on my list of great vendors. The more I look at the headers the more I realize how nice they are. I can't wait to get my engine installed to I can get them hooked up so I can go to my next set of problems, running the 2 1/2" exhaust with 2 16" long Borla's and not scraping the ground.

Man I cant wait to get mine on the street and report the same! I'm just glad I got the flange adaptors and CV shafts on order to go with the R200 LSD 3.7 rear. I fear the 3.54 open with the universals wont be around long.

Looks stout! I love the instant throttle response of a supercharger! Go fry some rice.

I cut the boss off the block and filed it all smooth, the headers fit fine now. mas280, thanks! I ordered it.

************ Wow! ***************

Great post Mike, that's intresting, I have the same problem with getting off course and keep a project board that I update monthly to keep me on track. I must admit I am shocked by the Viper numbers although it does have a strange front and I don't have a real good understanding of CD but I thought that the high speed problems were caused by the turbulant air flow under the Z and the slope of the rear window. Does smoothing out the air flow under the Z reduce the CD? Would placing a small wing at the top of the hatch to deflect air down the rear hatch window help reduce the drag?

Arent those going to stick way out of the wheel wells?

Thanks Mark, and Joey. Now I know I'm not alone, or got the wrong headers. I have had to cut sections of the LS1 block 3 times now. The first was to put an LS6 valley tray in for a cleaner PCV system, then it was to make room for the passenger side engine mount from John, now the headers. Joey, where did you get your o.p.s. adapter?

Time to change your oil, tranny fluid, diff fluid, Brake fluid, air filter, etc...

There are a couple of fitment issues with the new JTR LS1 headers. The first is a picture of interference from the block that keeps the drivers side header from sealing. The unused boss on the block will need to be clearanced for the header. I noticed it when trial fitting the headers and noticing that the flange was being held about 1/16" away from the head at the bottom of the exhaust port. http://www.circuitflex.com/Fittment1.jpg The second issue is with the oil pressure switch setup that John’s cars sends. The header will interfear with it so it will have to be moved to the stock pressure switch location. That will require a M16 X 1.5 adaptor, but should fit just fine. http://www.circuitflex.com/Fittment2.jpg Please note that I have not contacted Mike at JTR with these issues yet but wanted to warn anybody that bought the headers about this before they try to install them and cause some damage to the header. I will call Mike on Monday and inform him unless I see him in this thread.

That is just too weird Aux. That look's like one of those circus clown cars. More likely would be a stretch limo Z with room for 12 passengers and a swimming pool.

I got a set at Autozone that fit fine. I'll look for the name and number when I get home from work.

Put it on Ebay and call it rare with a starting price of 50.00 and see what happens.

Those are nice! I'll be headed that way in the summer! If those can't break an axle, nothing will!

Well I finished the speedometer yesterday. I drilled a hole in the plastic bezel then used a section of aluminum tubing and some heat shrink tubing to extend the trip odometer button. The glare in the picture makes all the bezel scratches stand out really bad, but in true life you never see them. The high beam light will be placed behind the screw that holds the housing in, right in front of the plastic. I hope it does not glare on the bezel. If it does I’ll move it inside the plastic. http://www.circuitflex.com/Speedo1.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/Speedo2.jpg

Sorry, I'm not very good at describing things. It seems strange, but I usually can just look at something and figure out how to do it in my head, then just go start making it happen. My problem is getting motivated. I will try to write it up better this weekend.

I got my set last night. I agree on the coating. The welds on mine could have been cleaned up a little better before they coated it though. If you use those headers on other applications then you have to move the engine mount on the passenger side forward like the johns car kit. The header goes right through where the stock mount is at.

The metal ring that holds the glass on is machine crimped on. Place the meter face down on a table. Take a screwdriver and bend the metal ring out all the way around. You have to go slow and may have to bent over the same spot several time to get the metal to stretch. Then you can pull the front off with the glass and expose the gauge in its housing. Then remove the 2 nuts from the back and pull the gauge from it's housing. Then using a bench sander I removed the lip from the plastic housing so it would fit into the datsun holder. Edit: I turned the gauge upside down and mounted it on the back of the plastic housing to serve as a holder for drilling the holes for the LED's.

I agree with that. Better quieting than a bullet, but flows great. A little expensive.

The stock turn signal bulbs were just grounded to the tach frame, so I just grounded the LED's to a strip on the firewall. I could have grounded them at the back tach mount but I had installed a nice ground strip in the car last year so it was easy to do that.

Congratulations! What a family, I bet it’s wild around your house!