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HybridZ

DaleMX

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Everything posted by DaleMX

  1. I decided on placing the computer under the passenger side dash. I built a prototype bracket for it, but will use the proto until I redo the dashboard. Here's a pic. http://www.circuitflex.com/LS1_Computer.jpg
  2. Almost bought a 2000 a few years back. They are awesome, and that one is really nice!
  3. Here's a post I made about mine. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99451
  4. I am using the stock 78 tank for now. Walbro 255L fuel pump, 1/2" feed line, 3/8" return. Both are aluminum lines from Earls. The Walbro pump has M10 X 1 threads on both the intake and outlet. The engine has Speed Inc fuel rails and a billet fuel pressure regulator. I purchased a 2001 LS1 tank last month to install during the winter (if I'm not still trying to get the car on the road damnit!) I was going to just replace the stock lines, but I think I will do a high tunnel install as the regulator and feed are both on the rear of the fuel rail. That will keep it simple. Of course I say this will all work, but the installation of the fuel stuff was supose to happen this week and I have had to postpone it because the car's electrical has a short in it somewhere that I'm having problems finding. Soon there will be only one wire left!
  5. Yea it does, about halfway down it shows how he wired it. If you want a diagram back to the wiper controler then buy the service manual. I know the PDF one I got from Nissan has the diagram.
  6. Brandonz emailed me this. Hope it helps. http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=570239&t=570239
  7. What is with the outside the body coolers? I must say, there is nothing functional about any of those cars mods. It has to be pure decoration, kinda like the whistle tips in Calif. "Woo Woo, that's only in da monin".
  8. The Wilwood 3/4 is the same diamater and volume as stock. I am also using an AN4 flare and tube from the master cylinder. At the slave I hacksawed the quick disconnect fitting off and drilled and tapped it for a 3/8-24. Using all Earls stuff I think the line cost about 20 bucks and the AN adaptors were like 8 each. I got the master from summit and dont remember the cost. Where did you find a tube with the quick disconnect on it? I'd get that and use my other slave in a heartbeat if I could find one.
  9. What is the consciences here about the plastic splash guards under the fenders. Keep them or trash them. They are always in the way when working under the fenders and the clips just dont seem to work right. I was thinking about removing them and just trying to protect the headlight connector some other way.
  10. Well for starters I believe the intake on the 5.3 is too tall for the hood. Lower CC's raise the CR also. I have a set of ported 5.3 heads for my LS1 and they raise the CR to around 10.8:1. I would worry about the valve size being too big for the bore and getting shrouded. It may not be a problem but I think that Tony Mamo at AFR can answer all your questions. If you do a search for AFR and Tony over on LS1Tech.com you can get your questions answered. Here's a thread he's in http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=313038
  11. On my 78 the sensor for the temp gauge has a single wire and is located by the thermostat. The two wire one is a switch that is used for the fuel injection. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong please, but I know the John's cars kit came with an adaptor for the single wire unit. I compared the difference between the 2 wire and the 1 wire. They are totally different. Here's a pic of my 1 wire installed into my LS1 block. http://www.circuitflex.com/WaterTemp.jpg
  12. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=305521
  13. Very impressive! Attention to detail always produces remarkable results. Making circuit boards is the same way. Lots of processes require lots of attention but it pay's off.
  14. Thanks, I'll check those folks out. The Z will be on the road this summer! By hook or by sweeping 45 degree bend! She will be ghetto beyond belief but I need a starting point!
  15. Anybody know a good shop in the North Atlanta area that can check out my 3.7 LSD and make it right if need be?
  16. I use a strap on LED headlamp also because I have to wear my glasses. There was a bit of glare with it but a properly placed strip of electrical tape solved that. Offset gear wrenches, I use mine all the time. I have a straight set also, but I want the pivot model! FWIW, I used electrical tape to block off the top third of the sheild on my motorcycle helmet. That way when riding into the sun I just have to move my head down a bit and block it out easily.
  17. A low temp powder is used on aluminum wheels. It wouldn't hurt to ask Centerline. A quote from this page http://my.execpc.com/~davewrit/Powder.html Found your article most enlightening. A metallurgist friend told me a few years ago that things like aluminum wheel spindles should not be powder coated. He explained that aluminum billet material (6061-T6 ?) changed crystal structure at a critical temperature around 410 degrees F (as I recall). The thrust was that the heating step would adversely affect the strength of the material. Non-structural components would be OK, but not something that "holds the spokes on". The metallurgist is correct. Products like wheel billets, scuba tanks, etc. can be powder coated, but only with powders which cure below peak metal temperature of 300 degrees F. The magic temperature is about 275F. The crystalline realignment at 400 degrees F causes the previous ductile aluminum to become brittle. Imagine the catastrophe when an 80 cu. ft. scuba tank explodes under 3000 psi pressure after an unauthorized powder coat (this actually happened). To my knowledge, all Aluminum wheels and other strength-critical aluminum components are powder coated with these cooler curing powders. Heating Al alloys above this temperature causes a granular rearrangement of the metallurgical structure resulting in a significant change of bulk properties. The tensile strength of the metal is dramatically lowered, much like a stress relief anneal on a steel piece would do. The resultant metal is not as strong, nor will pressure vessels made of such treated aluminum (e.g., scuba tanks) hold near the pressure that they were originally rated for. Since wheels are essentially load-bearing structures, they should never be heated like this unless the alloy is known to tolerate it well.
  18. Be carefull. If the wheels get too hot you will destroy the temper.
  19. Older and wiser! Go play pool and drink beer until 3AM.
  20. My flywheel was crap too on a 28,000 mile 99 LS1. When I took it off the back cover was covered with clutch dust but no residue like you have on yours.
  21. Alcohol should work ok, but test. You might try the orange smelling citrus gunk removal stuff too. If you fog them a bit you can always polish past it.
  22. Can we see the flow sheet please?
  23. That's it! For whatever reason GM decided to reduce the diamater of the clutch line at the interface between the master and the hose and drilling it out to about .125 will remedy that. Also the slave cylinder on 2001 and up was revised and is a recomended swap for earlier transmissions.
  24. Wow, great times! For what it's worth missing 3rd gear is a common problem with LS1's. 2 Questions. Are you using the stock master cylinder and braided hose? What year is the transmission? If it's what I think it is there is an easy fix. Edit: add one more question. What shifter is in the car?
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