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Gollum last won the day on January 17

Gollum had the most liked content!

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About Gollum

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    Tree Killer
  • Birthday 07/07/1987

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    Vacaville, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, Computers, Guitars, anything that makes music, or goes fast, or goes fast while making music!

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  1. What's your plan to smog it? Still has the SR right? With any luck we'll have good news in a week and it will be a non-issue.
  2. Progress continues on. Oil AND fuel pressure are wired in now, so I'm officially down to once ADC left on MS3X. Been working on a racepak inspired dash. Otherwise been putting miles on the car as much as I can.
  3. You going to be running factory EFI? In and case it sounds like you've got realistic goals and such. Keep looking around here and you'll likely find answers to most your questions. Also never hesitate to reach out to our more active members.
  4. Yeah I understand. For what it's worth I think a stock turbo motor is at about 94VE peak starting to trail off at 5300 or so and dropping down as low as 65-70 by redline. Improving top end flow with a better cam, valve unshrowding, and bowl clean up will help immensely. And thus hitting your projected 225whp at 10psi would be much easier. Though I don't think that's beyond reason with what you've mentioned.
  5. Boost can creep in low and high boost situations depending on the airflow profile of the engine and size of wastegate. Using matchbot (Google it) I think you're going to last at about 50% wastegate actuation from 4-7krpm. This is assuming the wastegate port is about 1" or 25mm and using the turbine flow map found here: http://turbochargerspecs.blogspot.com/2013/02/garrett-gt28rs-gt2860rs-62-trim-360-hp.html?m=1 Learn to use matchbot. It's extremely useful.
  6. At those power and boost levels creep shouldn't be an issue. The .64 AR is likely fine until you're pushing near the 300whp level.
  7. Who says I'm limited by pump gas I'll be running E85 by next winter. I'll actually be doing initial tuning in the next couple months. I have no doubt I'll be able to run flat tops on E85. Now, what kind of boost I can manage on CA 91 octane remains to be seen.
  8. Ha! Not only am I making it work, but it's working WELL. I'm actually kinda eager to find a flat top F54 bottom end.... Which was my plan all along. 9.5:1 is probably about right. And no, didn't even touch the short side radius. I plan on doing a more thorough street port on it down the road, and have someone cut the seats for larger valves. That'll probably happen if/when I drop it onto a block with flat tops. Or if I can't find that, I'll by some aftermarket flat tops with the same pin height as factory. I think the main reason this combo "doesn't work" for so many people's experience is that the ideal timing gets SO LOW at peak torque. I've had pinging at 4-5k at only 18 degrees advance... yet still making about 200 ft/lbs to the wheels at 7psi boost. So though that's a lot less timing than the factory curve, people running non-programmable ignition end up having to pull so much timing out of the base timing at the distributor that yes, there's no power in the engine. But so far, I'm definitely at least matching the torque/power I'd get from a P90...
  9. Since it was bothering me trying to track rows and clumns on a picture, and I knew I had the original xls shared somewhere on my fileserver, I dug it up and put it up on google sheets. If you have a google/gmail account you can make a copy for yourself and modify/mark/note to your heart's content. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vTiMRW_q9winvoPB7G4bQ42Br6aX8fVZRrag9IElIJi52ArTcQxYnWwxfn94x2VHYLA9Z7EawEqelMo/pubhtml
  10. Here's a useful after/before tune diff: And a scatter plot which gives you a good idea of the weight of the cell data (I've removed off-throttle and transient data) Another interesting way to look at data, Pulse Width by Duty Cycle, colored by AFR. Same off-throttle and transient data remove as above. The logs: 2019-03-10_13.44.08.msl.zip Tune Resulting tune: Gollum-Tune.zip
  11. Drove about 30 miles today. About 8 miles of freeway and lots of various back roads, all the while auto tuning. While I was about 7-8 miles from home still I heard a new and obvious noise during a higher RPM pull. My immediate concern was oil pressure loss and cam damage. I drove easier on it the rest of the way back and the closer I got to home the more I suspected the fan clutch. Get home, pull hood... Clutch fan is noticably difficult to spin. Eh, oh well. The resulting map has some obvious holes, and there's some holes actually MADE by auto tune, so I'm a bit curious about that. We'll see what more long term results say. That said, the under boost region is WAY better and stays very close to target AFR now. I'll likely end up smoothing based off of this and then seeing if the holes reappear. I'll post logs and the new tune file in a bit.
  12. Shouldn't be a problem at all. MOST people making 200whp on factory longblocks without issue. But you'll likely end up wanting to ditch the factory EFI. You've modified the top end enough that the factory curve won't work well at all, and most people don't have the patience/interest in learning how to hack the factory EFI and retune it. Once you've got a good tune, whatever your choice there, you should be able to make 200whp on about 8-10psi without issue considering the top end improvements. As far as "limits", your limit will be detonation for a given boost/fuel/tune combo. A factory bottom end will hold 400hp all day as long as there's no overheating and/or detonation issues. So as long as the tune's good, the bottom end is pretty reliable. You might choose to just always fill with 110 octane and run a large radiator. You might choose to do some common cooling mods to improve rear cylinder temps. You might opt for a fancy ECU with per-cylinder trimming so you can keep detonation prone cylinders a bit softer. Everyone always asks the famous "how do I make 300hp with a L28ET?", and the answer always boils down to "add boost, tune well". These things won't explode in a fit of rage because of a power/torque level though. It's generally large amounts of abuse on a bad tune, using pump gas and lots of boost, or revving the nuts off of it when you didn't build it for that, which generally do them in. Handle the tuning aspect, and you can make as much power as you venture into solving secondary issues for (which generally all boil down to heat management).
  13. I'm one of those odd people that will likely never sell their S30, but I also didn't buy it because it was a dream car. I got into Z cars because they were cheap(er) and were as close to a blank canvas as you can get. Any engine fits, and they're small enough that they generally handle well unless you ruin them. But if you held a gun to my head, I guess my ideal S30 would be some Frankenstein between a BRE 240Z and a Daytona Coupe. Ideally a modern spaceframe like the new FFR models, with tires for days. As fond as I am of the L motor, the Coyote has been my dream of a perfect V8 for 8+ years now, and it's only getting better with each passing iteration. In reality, I'm actually far more likely to build a FFR Daytona than build that S30, mostly because of required time and tool investment. I'm not a chassis designer, and as much fun as that sounds, would likely get to the desired results faster by letting others do the heavy engineering lifting. Though I guess an idea I've had in the back of my mind for 15+ years now, would be to just plop a S30 body onto a FFR chassis... Which seems like a shame, because it's not like the Daytona is ugly. Maybe I'll order TWO kits....
  14. Yeah, I bought my first S130 under the same hope/expectation. That all went up in flames, sadly. I really wish they'd go back to a rolling smog year, but this is at least something. Back to your regularity scheduled sign-in thread.
  15. Welcome! Keep and eye on this state bill, your car might be smog testing exempt soon. http://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/billStatusClient.xhtml?bill_id=201920200AB210
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