Gollum

I'm surprised that engine ran even an hour in that position.

They look like stock L28ET injectors. I'd even bet on it. They flow around 260cc and will suffice to get you to around 200 wheel hp or so until needing to up the fuel pressure, and with raised pressure they should be good to around 240 wheel hp or so.

Wow, that paint is a lot shiner than it is now. Hey look, a driver side arm rest! Who would have though of such a marvelous idea? I like the current rims better. And I don't miss that nasty window tint.

Big Phil, you're an inspiring man. Hopefully there's more videos to come still. I know the quality SUCKS!!! I'm sorry. My camera was on LP instead of SP and that meant I couldn't use my normal editing tools to capture the video. My bad. I'll be getting some footage at the meet in vacaville this weekend, so hopefully the next video won't be far behind. I'm so nervous... this is weird.

In "How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems" by Jeff Hartman he talks about this specifically, and yes, fuel injection systems still need a hot engine to atomize the fuel. He even specifically talks about cold start fuel ratios, giving example figures, but I forget what they were. I think it was something like as low as 4:1 air fuel in order to get the engine started and running smooth. Fuel injectors help the fuel atomize, but our pintile type injectors don't do that great of a job. The super modern bosch injectors that have really fine sprayers help the fuel atomize because it's spraying such fine particles, but they also tend to clog a lot easier requiring much cleaner fuel systems. A fuel injector can't magically turn the fuel into vapors, it's still just a liquid pump of sorts. And it also can't work without pressure. Think of injectors as doorways controlled by a coil, that's it. I highly recommend that book btw. Been one of my favorite reads and I'm still reading it over and over again.

We'll be taking more pics this saturday on my stock suspension 280Z, so people can get a better idea of what the car will look like with a full set. I'll let chris correct me if I'm wrong, but there should be PLENTY of room for the stock brakes And it seems as though you won't need to run coil overs, at least in the front. I have no doubt the 9 inch rim would fit in the rear just fine, we'll see about the 9.5 in the rear on saturday. I think it'd be sweet to see these things run on a completely stock suspension, allowing pretty much anyone who wants to run some small flares to run these rims.

I was the one who corrected chris on the heads. I was wrong. The 93' heads ARE iron, the current ford racing GT-40 heads are aluminium and have larger valves. Upgrade the heads if it's in the budget. Those iron heads will retain too much heat imo. Could also lower compression while you're at it via the head, then might be able to survive without forged pistons. EDIT: Woops, forgot the link I was going to share Info on the 93' cobra and engine http://www.1993cobra.com/data.htm http://mustangforums.com/m_2540361/tm.htm

You won't need very big turbos, unless you're gonna try to run it without an intercooler, which i'm not sure I'd recommend. You'll have 2.5 liters of displacement per turbo (closer to 2.4 actually, as the 5.0 is closer to 4.9) and you'll be wanting them to be spooling good and hard by 1750rpm or there abouts. The AFR heads are gonna be completely overkill. Trust me, I've seen BONE STOCK longblock cobras putting well over 400 to the wheels with just a supercharger and fuel upgrades. As long as you keep heat under control you shouldn't run into too many bottle necks. you might want a different intake all together, as they're cheap, possibly cheaper than porting the stock one. Cam selection is important, I'd research what guys are running on supercharged 5.0 motors. The stock ford EFI is pretty darn good too, and you might want to research modding it via programmer. It's all MAF based and the cobra maf is good to 500hp of airflow iirc. You can also upgrade it and recalibrate it to a higher flowing MAF. You'll definately want a larger throttle body, and I can see the exhause system being the largest part of this build. It'll need to be completely custom. You doing the headers yourself?

Be careful, I don't believe those 93' cobra engines had forged pistons, and my brother's 93 cobra would ping on bad gas. Through that much hot air into that engine might cause problems. You might want to get some low compression forged pistons put in. Those heads are great though, and I'd bet outflow any of the budget name brand heads out there. Get a more agressive cam (with little to no overlap since it's force induction) and it should put out some insane power. Try to keep it around or under 500hp though, and if you're gonna push it farther than that I'd recommend keeping the revs low to prevent splitting the block.

Hey chris, I can't find a dyno sheet posted of your car. I'd love to see one. I've been making a database of dyno figures to show how different engines tend to make power, weather NA, turbo, supercharged etc. So the more general info on the engine to go along with it would be super amazing special awesome.

Dang it, I'd writted up a nice little page on how to adjust the AFM. It must have gotten lost somewhere in the midst of the chaos of work yesterday. Reading through that link woldson posted would be a good idea, but don't take everything as biblical. One thing in particular he says truly concerns me. "While the engine is warming up, oil is thicker; there is more resistance, so more fuel is needed" Either he's trying too hard to simplify his wording, or his idea of how fuel works in an engine is completely wrong. Fuel Vapors are what burn, not the liquid itself. When an engine is cold there's less fuel vapors becuase more of the fuel is staying liquid. So until the engine starts getting warm you need a TON of fuel in order to create enough vapors to get the engine running smooth. THAT is why you MUST run rich when cold, and it's also the source of the majority of the smog cars produce. Even on a road trip you'll produce more smog in that one start up in the morning than your car will all day long. It's one of the main focuses of smog reduction engineers are still chasing after. Back to the AFM The IDLE MIXTURE was mentioned, but that honestly has very little effect on overal mixture. If you open it up (usually siliconed on, just cut into the seam with a knife and then pry off) you'll see the gear attatched to the spring in behind everything else, and you should see a bolt holding it in place. First, before anything, mark the gear with a sharpie. Now you'll know where to put it back to if you screw something up. Loosen the bolt that holds it and then adjust. I'd start off by loosening it about 3 teeth (counter clockwise, or letting it unravel on it's own power) then tighten the bolt back up. See if that does it. If not, go 3 teeth the other direction. If none of that makes any noticable difference to your situation put it back where it was, your problem is elsewhere.

I'm not positive the trannies are the same length auto to manual. I recently pulled a turbo car with an auto, and the tranny seemed MUCH longer than either my nissan 5 speed or T5, and the shaft was accordingly short. They didn't use a different auto for the turbo did they?

Well, legally there's a LOT that you can pass off as "advertizing" to the IRS, even in the midsts of an audit, and they're about as stingy government as it gets. I think you could probably get these plates even if you're driving 10k miles a year, just not to work, unless you have a job that related to the Z/car club. If say, you were a member of zonc and it was a "job" of yours to recruit people for membership (recently saw a ZONC business card at one of my favorite resturants in vallejo) then you could theoretically be driving the car nearly anywhere, as the car itself is part of advertizing for club events. And club purposes are the whole reason for the plates. It's an iffy subject. I'd highly recommend contacting your accountant to get a better feel for how the laws can be worked. Lucky for me my mom is an accountant.

Ok, what size are the injectors? When I switched out my NA injectors to turbo injectors (180cc to 260cc i think) and my car didn't run until I adjusted the AFM to put in the correct amount of fuel. If you have air fuel and spark in every cylinder then it's either the air/fuel ratio that's bad, or spark timing. Could theoretically be compression too, but the motor ran before so it should be fine.

Love the flickering shop light. Congrats TR! Keep the vids comming.

I think it's more about the fact that to most of us want a 100% origonal and perfect car as a "blank slate" to start from. Reminds me of a common phrase in the mustang world: "Everyone wants an unmolested 93 cobra to molest" and likewise we all want a completely untouched virgin for our ideal motor choice. If I'm completely wrong and people here actually value driving a 100% origonal 240Z, then I think something is wrong with them. There's a forum for them, it's called zcar...

You won't get much help acting like that around here. Sorry. It's built into our rules that you're to act non-biased towards other people, and to allow them to do what they like and not downplay thier decisions. So bad mouthing a chevy swap when 75%+ of our members have chevy swaps isn't too bright. All that being said, I'll help you out the best I can. First off, if you don't have space for a car now, what will change that you'll have space later? If you WILL have space to work on a car, yea sure, buy an engine and rebuild it since you have the time/space/money I assume. I'd suggest pulling the entire motor + alternator + starter. Just so it's complete. If you want to be able to run it on a stand you'll need the entire wiring harness + ECU (located by the driver's foot box). Since you posted this in a S130 section I assume you'll be doing this swap in a S130 car. I'd try my best if I were you to make sure to get a 280ZX motor, and one with a P79 or P90 head. Those are really great flowing heads and can easily make good street performing heads. Lots of info on this site about them. While you're working on it you can do other mods though, like a KA24 throttle body and such. Could even get it running on megasquirt if you had the time/money.

mMm, those rims remind me of a hotwheels. Anyone know what I'm talking about?

Now that I have a S30 I'm gonna be thinking about blocking off parts of my front end. Though I'm worried about in traffic temps since I'm running a unshrowded fan. Maybe I should keep my electric fan sitting at home handy. Didn't really like having to put the sensor in the radiator fins, I'd probably just wire up a switch. I'll post pics once I start of course. Will probably be a month or so. First order of buisness is to get the air dam to fit correctly, and possible warp it back to normal shape.

Lemme find a bunch of pics so we can nail it down. Here's the 3 valve triton 5.4 Here's a 5.4 SOHC from a ford F250 Here's a 5.4 DOHC Heads are from the lincoln navigator Here's a 99' 4.6 SOHC The new GT500 Mod motor, DOHC Another DOHC 4.6 Judging by the intake, I believe this is one of the earlier DOHC Cobra motors (96-98) Here's a great shot of the navigator DOHC 5.4, which is probably similar to what the engine would look like in the E350 if it were indeed DOHC That's all I got for now. I need to get to doing some work around here.

No worries capt, I'm just gonna be using a switch I'll be putting on the dash somewhere. No biggie. I'm still considering buying this nice aluminium dash + center console from the guy I bought my car from. Would be a pain to deal with getting it in over a weekend, but would be well worth it in the end. If I do that I'll probably end up converting the windshield wiper switch over to the dash as well.

Is he God? You realize you can count the known cars with those heads on one hand right? You realize that even IF he magically found one it'd command a price most likely well over 10k right?

umm... yea, you'd be lucky to fit any rim this wide without any flare. My shots prove the offset is about as pefect as it gets though. No spaces needed to keep from rubbing, and as long as you only used about 2 inches of suspention travel I guess you could get away without using a flare...

How big are your flares? Don't forget that my car is at stock height, making it look like it fits better than it does. They stuck out at least a good visible inch from the fender lip. Me and chris were thinking the smaller/normal ZG flares would be perfect for fitment.

i'm not sure you want to waste your time "upgrading" to a junkyard turbo, even if it's a T3/T4. A brand new name brand ball bearing T3 can out flow and out spool most OEM turbos from the 70's-90's. You're much better of just using the stock T3 and then upgrading to a much better, and newer unit once you run out of usable air with the stock at around 15psi.