Gollum

hmm... i just swapped out a guage... i'm trying to figure out where the speed sensor is that's swapped with the guage... I'll go back and look at it. I used a 85mph cluster and swapped out just the guage face (and rod that goes through the unit) since I wanted to keep my mileage. It would suck if I had to use the other unit alltogether since it was in crap shape. Oh well, I'll figure something out.

Ouch. That hurt... really, it did. It made think about how the statistic that most body builders were vitims of severe youth slander. Basically made fun of alot... ...It must have had a rough childhood.... REALLY rough. She/It doesn't make me want to go to the gym at all, for the fear that I might meet a girl/thing like that... eww...

There's a product on the market that's like JB weld but it's temp rating is much higher. I still wouldn't recomend that route as that's just a 'fix till it holds' route but it's still a more pro way of doing it. I wish I could remember what it was. I know there was a thred about it on HZ so if you search of jb weld i'm sure it'll come up as jb weld came up alot in the thread.

I dig the aerodynamic license plate mounting, very genious. On a more serious note, the rims/tires look 100% fabulous. I hope you drove it like you stole it (that reminds me, I got pulled over recently... cop just wanted to make sure it was my car and then let me go )

Musta been a good sized leak. Hope the JB holds I won't be suprised if it holds just fine, just keep us updated on how that works out.

Yea, if you're concerned about frame warpage it might be wiser to go with a high reving low tourque motor. You can get a 1.6 B16 honda to 200hp no problem. Stock they can put over 150 to the wheels. Most cases I've seen with minimal upgrades put around 170 to the wheels. I'm no suggesting a honda motor, I'm just showing how one of the lowest HP modern 4 cylinders would work. There's lots of options out there, I'd just recomend staying with a light motor. The Z motor is NOT light unless you're comparing it to a supra motor (or that inline 8 that there's been recent talk about ). Many V8 motors will be lighter than the Z motor, and nearly all V6 motors will be and you'd be hard pressed to ever find a 4 cylinder with more weight on it, even with turbo systems included. In my opinion 200hp is atainable with nearly any motor with enough funds. Many 4 cylinders will have 200 or near HP out of the box, so the largest investment is just getting the motor in and running. Obviously you can save alot of hassle if you find a motor with a transmission that would be easy to adapt to the car. Even the S13 SR20 motors had over 200hp stock. http://www.japanracingengines.com/engineview.asp?id=38 Toyota makes some good 4 cylinders, but not many FR setups. Even an older rotory motor would be 200hp out of the box. Not extremely light, but not bad on wieght as it's very low weight and it's a small package. http://www.japanracingengines.com/engineview.asp?id=66 You could also spend a bit more and go with one of the newer rotory motors with 280hp stock. http://www.japanracingengines.com/engineview.asp?id=65 There's lots of options out there. I'd imagine 200hp would scream in a spit too. I was sitting in one at a junkyard not too long ago, man those things are small. I'd love to drive one, but not on the SUV dominated street. 200hp should be pretty potent in one if you've got grip.

Yea, the RZ has really started to bloom in recent history. I'm hoping the UZ series is close on it's heels but things seem to be moving slow. Yea there's parts avaiblible, and I personally don't NEED all my parts nicely laid out in catalogs or anything like that. But large aftermarket creates competition and gives you better parts for better prices. Sure you're always gonna spent at least X amount for some stuff, but it's nice you know you have your options. And that 3.4 liter in the 4runner is the exact motor I'm looking into, the 5VZFE. TRD had an optional supercharger + an optional injector & ECU package that adds a 7th injector. Engines with these kits alone are supposed to be around 260hp. Not too shabby for 3.4 warrenty backed liters. If I do the swap my goal in the long run would be about 400hp with a bottom end that could hold to 800hp if I ever wanted to go crazy. From the sound of things it's doable, but the swap is still very 'research' pending.

The way I figure it is that I'd rather go with a toyota V6 from the tundra. I'm talking about the V series, the 5VZ in particular. Think about it this way, the block isn't that much heavier, and it's shorter in length. The main thing making it heavier is the heads and extra rotating mass. It really shouldn't be too heavy of a motor even though it's an iron block. Both 4 and 6 cylinder toyota motors in question are designed for tourque and as such aren't high reving motors. I havn't had the chance to do tons of hands on research on either yet, but I havn't checked into the head design of the RZ series at all yet so I can't speak for it, but the 5V seems to have great head potential with good valve design. I don't have specs on the weight of the pistons yet, but it's a short stroke motor so revs really shouldn't be a problem as long as you can get the valvetrain to keep up. Stock limitation on revs will be lack of power from the cams since it's designed for low end tourque as I stated previously. Both engine options are seemingly unheard of, wich has pros and cons. The upside is that they're actually around for a good price since there isn't this insane demand for them (you'll never find a vtec honda at a picknpull unless you catch it in it's first 2 hours at the yard). The downside is that because of it's lack of popularity that there isn't a huge aftermarket readily availble. But these motors are a great option if you're not looking for tons of power. Honestly I think that there are lots of motors out there like the toyota 4 cylinders and V6's that are prime for the taking. Go for it!

You should be ok with flat tops with the P90 head just make sure to get some standalone fuel control if you're going go be stessing the t3/t4 to it's limits or even close to.

yea but if you have lots of knowledge of rebuilding diffs then you could actually do power brute swaps yourself and make some goond money ebaying them for even more than the standard R200 CLSD units. Trust me guys, if I was just finding them left and right, I'd be happy to pass the deals onto you guys. But, I don't find them everyday and I'm a bit short on cash. I can link you guys to the ebay listings when I get them

Depends on the block. What year is it from? Does it have the flat top or dished pistons? What cylinder head do you have? All these things matter. You'll want a P series head, prefferably the P90. A P90 on a stock bottom from any year will yield a good setup. If it's a flat top piston block (had the P79 head) it will have a higher compression wich will be good for the lower boost applicatinos. If you have an older (N47 or other cylinder head) then you've got flat top pistons that aren't quite as good as the turbo pistons but the same spec for compression, so you'll have good boost potential but you won't be able to run quite as much as a stock turbo block. I personally think if you're going to replace pistons you should just go with something high end to begin with, unless you're only going for moderate power (i'd consider anything bellow 300hp moderate). If you're really not looking for a ton of power you could probly just stick with the stock pistons. People have turbo'ed all kinds of setups with the L series and they all have thier pros and cons. But as far as wich is best I'll leave that up to the experts of L tech.

That's the engine you put in your Z that tows the other Z. Boo-yah!

I'd assume they're using something lower profile. But remember that the lower profile you go the harder it is for a tire to be forgiving (how well a tire regains traction after loss of). Of course engineering can compensate, but I was just stating a general rule of thumb. Besides, who needs a front valance anyways? I see guys in concord running thier muscle cars without hoods all the time. Surely something as trivial as a valance isn't needed.

I really shouldn't mention this... but I used to see lots of the 87-89 turbo cars at junkyards in my area. Now that I know what they're worth I stop by yards as often as I can. And there's still plenty in the SF bay area for the picking. I see at least 1 a week on the road it seems. I tend to come across one every other month in the junkyard, sometimes with the diff. They're out there, but it seems there's a possability they're all in the SF area

AMEN! Lets keep this civil, been a good thread so far methinks. And I like your reasoning crispy. If I wanted huge potenial I'd probly have to go LS and then remove anything that says chevy on it I really wish more companies had highly developed pushrod motors becuase the LS simply pulls the pants down on most V8's on the market. It's lighter, stronger, cheeper, ect. The list goes on. Maybe one of these days I'll work up the nerve to build a chevy motor... We'll see. (as i've said many times here on HZ, i've got NO disrespect for chevy, just not my cop o' tea. For me it's like RX7's I think they're great cars but I don't think i'd ever want one and all the things associated with one).

From personal experience the main thing that makes any turbo motor unreliable is going beyond the abilities of the current setup. It's pushing just that little bit further, or running a setup stable enough for some drag runs, but then autox'ing it for and hour straight. It's just harder to keep the litte boy inside of you under control with a turbo car methinks But under lower PSI, or conservative numbers a turbo car has plenty of reliabilty. But you could possibly be right when you say "majority" bjhines. Ya grumpy, isn't the saying seriousity killed the cat? No, well that should be the saying

Becuase I don't have a death wish grumpy And even if 'I' didn't kill myself someone else would kill me to steal that wad of cash sitting in my car

I'm really not a fan of the idea of using a gasket to lower compression. If you look at your cylinder head chamber you'll notice it's not really pefectly round. When you raise that cumbustion chamber farther away from the pistons you're dramatically changing the look of the flame front and quench as well. These are the things that prevent detonation. You can't just tune around it. I'm sure you could tune it to not detonate, but you'll be at significatly less HP than the same setup using lower compression pistons instead. Do it once, do it right. Just my .02 cents. But I'd love to see another SC'ed Z.

Shameless plug here, but get in contact with the member on here that goes by braap. He's very knowledgable about the nissan L series and has done extensive port work on numerous heads. All around top notch work from what I've seen, and his prices see very fair indeed. So talk to him, and see what he says. Also know that there's much more to do on a Z that just engine work. Old unrestored suspension won't handle too great, and suspension restoration or upgrades are a must in my opinion. Other than that welcome to HZ! This place rocks

Wow, very impressive. But it still weighs in at 2650 with gas and a person. So it's probly around 2400 pounds. Pretty heavy for how tiny it is. I bet it still goes like mad. Big phat tyres.

It might be worthwhile to hunt the junkyards for several months until you find a junkyard LSD R200 then have it rebuilt. You'd still come out ahead.

I havn't had a tone of motors in varous Z cars like others here, so take what I say as philosophical, I'm not quite a realist yet... My ideal motor would be a 3-4L V8. Why V8 in particular, and in such a small displacement? Becuase 1) A V8 is usually the strongest bottom end for a V motor, and a V motor is one of the best ways to get compact power. Inline motors are tall, and even in OEM use they're slanted wich obviously shows that even the manufactures understand the downsides to a high weight balance 2) I'm not one who needs huge power, I enjoy cars the most when they feel well balanced and are actually usable for your application. You see, I'm not like alot of people here looking for 600+++ HP. I just want 300-400hp in a nible handling car that doesn't bring you suprises. Right now I'm putting an L28et in my car, for ONE reason. It's cheep and goes in with no hassle (car is a S130). For a future S30 project I'm looking into lots of options. One was the 1uz, but it's quite large for my liking. One of the other motors that's peaked my interest lately is the 5VZ toyota motor. It's around 185-190hp stock, but it's lowish compression (9.6:1) due to an optional TRD supercharger. Basic supercharged motors are around 265hp. This motor would reach my goals easily. But it has it's own hassles to overcome. In the end there's lots of motor options. I agree with johnc, don't let this whole thread become and argument. I have nothing against any motor. All motors have thier uses. Weather or not they fit my use is a different story. Most big cube motors have too much potential for my liking. Inline 6 motors are tough no doubt, but they can tend to make a Z nose heavy wich can kill handling resonce (though i know there's lots of guys out there with well handling L6 cars, i'm not saying against them). Then I4 motors just aren't my cup o' tea, and I've worked on/driven my fair share to actually know what they're like. Cheers everyone. Good thread methinks. I've enjoyed the discussion so far.

Well you're looking at spending at least $600 for a CLSD R200 if you buy one from ebay, and that'll be used. By those standards that doesn't seem like too much Though that's still more money than I'd like to spend on a diff.

$100 for two dyno pulls! That's highway robbery man. I'd hunt around for a dyno day type event with lots of people. Many times run of the mill car clubs don't mind letting someone else in on the party. I'm glad the car's going great! I'm in the middle of a wiring nightmare. Seems as though i'm gonna have to change about 80% of the wiring on the car in order to reach my "no adaptation" goal. Basically I don't want to fiddle around adapting connectors and such, but I didn't realise just how much was different between the two cars. Argh, oh well. It'll be on the road soon enough still.

In all my time here I've learned that it's not questions that people here hate, it's answering the same question day in and day out. In your case that hasn't happened, since few care about mopar or thier relation to motor swaps. Very few are known about, thus nearly EVERYONE will be interested in your swap, I guarantee it. Some people here thought it was pretty obvious that a big block crank wouldn't fit in a small block, so sue them. I got people makin fun of me when I didn't know what the oil pump was on the L series motor (since I'd had very limited work on them) yet could identify nearly every electrical sensor on the car. I didn't take it personally though, I just considered it "brotherly love". And if you have a brother you know what I'm talking about. If you want to start a project before posting, I guess that's fine. But please PLEASE post when you do start the project. I'm sure people here are willing to help, but I'd bet all that I have that people will want to have the knoweldge that comes from such a rare swap inventoried here on this site.