Gollum

Yes, these are the evils of the net. We need more smilies Look, people on this site are extremely nice for the most part. There's a fair amount of sarcasim, wich helps keep things light-hearted. So please don't take things personally. We're really a family here on HZ. Take care

Congrats. Hopefully I'll only be a few weeks behind ya on getting mine running. I'm sticking with the stock boost until I can afford an intercooler, wastegate, injectors, and BOV. Enjoy the car and don't break anything

Just an FYI, the pre 83' L28ET tune up spec is 20B timing, and the 83' is 24B. This is according to the chilton's manual. So timing spec should be somewhere around there. In case you didn't have an offical documentation on it. I know if I didn't read it myself I would really start my timing in that area cuz that's kinda high

Thanks for the clarification. I thuoght it was higher though, oh well

that's the spec on the 2.2 liter. Was it higher on the earlier 2.0 liter motors?

Ok, well things are still moving slower than I'd like. Not becuase of complications of working on the car, but complications of getting free time during the right time of day. Here's the engine bay as it lies now: Still need to pull some things out, and a little bit of wiring to remove yet. And for your viewing pleasure this isn't what you want your pistons to look like. And here's a wider shot so you can see how clean I got my two outter pistons in a little over 60 seconds (build up was thick, and that grossed me out a bit, not what you want to dream is in your cumbustion chamber) So, two weeks of REAL work and I should be wrapping things up I think. It's a goal I'm setting, but I won't be too dissapointed if things don't work out as planned again.

I disagree that buying a ferrari is about being fast. Sure it's a part of the package, but there's something else about it no doubt. You don't buy a rolex because it keeps the best time in the world, you buy it becuase it's a status symbol. Almost any gearhead can put a car together to beat most production cars in a straight line. But building something that will be all around faster, AND as comfortable, AND as reliable as a ferarri would be hard to do. And I'm not against the LS7 swap idea, but that lovely sound... oOo man do ferrari's sound great.

Yea, I think the earlier S2000 hondas had 12.5:1 I could be wrong though. I don't claim to know what it really is, but I remember nearly falling to the foor when I first found out how high it was on a production vehicle.

No, just the white car has the turbo hood, wich I'll be spraying black. Bleach, it was an honor to be cross-quoted

Could it possibly be an ignition problem? I've had one go out on me, where sometimes I'd turn the key and the car would turn over but the fuel pump wouldn't kick in, and then sometimes the other way around. Fickle things those worn out keys. Probly not an end-all answer but something to think about.

I love your story cal poly. It shows that if you really pursue you can get the refs to do what you need. And obviously from your case some are better than others. If you're willing to do your homework and work with the ref it's amazing what you can get legalised. I started this post for one reason and one reason only. There's a new service provided by BAR that allows you to check out not only your vehicles test history (wich has been availible for a while) but also weather or not it's going to be test only or not next smog date. http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/vehtests/pubtstqry.aspx A HIGHLY recomended link. Bookmark it for sure, although knowing the government the site won't exists in 3 weeks or will be taken on by another website. Bah.

Now why can't mazda make a production NA 4 rotor? It makes so much more sence to me than a turbo 2 rotor. I guess that's just me. Then again moden engine bays are short and wide, whereas our Z cars are narrow and long.

Clean clean clean... but i hate red interior, sorry. Nothing personal There's lots you can do, but not a ton that will make a huge difference for NA power. And there isn't much in existance for "bolt on" upgrades as aftermarket support practically doesn't exist. You can always go the direction that AE2ZX and I are going. L28ET. They came stock in the car and are pretty cheep. They have much more power potential as well. There's lots of people on here with those motors at many different stages so you're always sure to have the help you need here. You're in auburn so the swap would easily be legalised if you ever need to legalise it. Just make sure 100% of everything gets chaged . I won'y lie and say it's an easy swap, since I'm in the middle of it now, but it's probly about as easy as any swap gets. If you know next to nothing about cars I wouldn't just jump into a project like that. I'd recomend doing some of your own engine mantainence and get familar with your engine and all of the other mechanical components. Do some oil changes, plug changes, tune ups, ect on your own. Good luck with the Z, it looks great.

Well, no pics of I got a little bit of work done today. Started pulling the entire steering assy and got the EFI harness out (along with everything else attached). I still havn't started taking apart the new turbo car yet but I think it's going to have to start soon. I've been keeping it in a running state so that car guys I know can come by and check it out, but I guess the rest will have to wait till the swap is done. I've got a few minutes tomorrow so I'm going to try and finish off the steering stuff and clean out the engine bay some. There's some rust in the battery tray area that I can't get to in order to sand out so I don't think I'll get to treat that area at all. But I do plan on sealing as much as I can get at.

I think it's pretty rare for an AFM to go bad. They might have issues but i'm pretty sure they're usually fixable. Here's an article you can check into if the injectors aren't the problem. http://www.geocities.com/jfairladyz/AFMrebuild.html?1144191577198

Three words: Breaker Bar Hammer. That's all you need and you shouldn't exude too much force. Just a good long solid breaker bar and some good taps with a hammer and there you have it. But I'm a firm believer that if a job is extremely difficult then you don't have the right tools. So maybe it be best for you to use air tools.

Whoa, I saw the title of this thread and thought it must have been something someone dug up from the archives, but NO! Aux is working on the car again! YAHOO! I really want to see this thing in person once it's on the road. Go aux, we're cheering for ya.

I got the engine out today, right as it started to rain. Oh well, I'll just continue tomorrow. But it sure felt good to get the motor out, that's for sure.

If I were you I wouldn't base your car's speed/hp on who you can beat, unless of course you've driven both cars. Racing is racing and in the end it comes down to the drive. I can just start naming off insane kills but they're meaningless because all that tells you is how bad of a driver the person I was racing was. I don't mean to hack you down, I just thought you could use this bit of advice.

I think the reason there isn't much info on the 280ZX on this board (or on the net) is due to the lack of interest in them. The S130 and the Z31 aren't very popular within any crowd. The engine swap hybrid types like the S30 cars for thier weight and the modern crowd likes the Z32 for it's touring characteristics. But people like us are slowly changing that. The S130 seems to be gaining some popularity just in the time I've been a member here, so the future is looking bright for our cars.

the main weak link in the NA efi I think would be in the fuel pump. The turbo injectors are supposed to be good for 250hp and that would put the NA injectors around 200hp since they're not THAT much smaller. With the NA injectors you'd just be running a bit lean on the top end once you maxed out the injectors, not just suddenly cutting out under boost. I'd say it's the afm still, but if the a/f ratio is good at lower throttle then it's probly something else. Hmm, could it still be a vacuume issue? I'm just throwing out ideas. I could understand it possible being the fuel pump though, seeing as they're different units (at least from first hand experience).

It's late and dark, and i'm leaving for the weekend at the crack of dawn. But if you're still having issues on monday I'll take my camera out and take good pics of all the connectors on my running ZXT for you. It won't help you figure out what all the NA harness stuff is but it'll at least show you how the turbo car was setup for sure.

One quick question... So why doesn't anybody here ever use the factory block cooler that the motors came with? The NA motors had them and the Turbo motors had them. Are they really that worthless? It never really gets over 100 F here and rarely over 110 F in the valley. I've had it turn on in my NA every now and then but I still don't understand how it could possible cool much. It also never came on while driving, just while sitting still.

Ok, so pulled the dash today once the weather cooled down. I'm starting to feel alot better about all this after pulling the dash was so easy. So here's the pics of the aftermath and notes to people pulling a S130 dash in the future. Basic View behind the dash Here's a view of the back of the removed dash Here's what you want to remove from the left side of the dash. Green = Steering whele Blue = Speed sensor cable. If you remove the wheel you don't have to unmound the steering rod like I did (not thinking) and the speed sensor cable is probly the most difficult part of the process as there isn't much slack. Then there's the right side. There's four plugs (two pair technically) that if unplugged will give you more slack after you remove the dash. There's also a connector that once unplugged will also free up some slack room. Blue = four connectors Green = Missing plug that's been disconnected And here's the last of the connectors. Even with these on there's lots of room to move the dash around so they're not imparrative to take off unless you need the dash full out of the car. Last note: If you pull out the passanger seat you can neatly lay the dash down on the floor. This is pretty convenient if you just need to work on the guages and such since you won't get your seat dirty and you can lay the dash in a position that's easy to work with. And that's all folks. I'll be back on it tomorrow.

I played it some months ago at innerware's shop. He'd mentioned he was going to be moving soon and I havn't really talked to him since I played it. BIG BIG sound for a portable acoustic. All the other small acoustic i've played had a narrow sound that didn't seem very loud. This guitar was the exact opposite, sure you could still here that it was a small guitar but it could fool someone who didn't know any better (like how some people are fooled into thinking my stock ZX is fast...) AND the brdige started to come off while I was there (oops) so it wasn't even getting full vibration transfer. I was even more impressed at that point. It seems the glue he used didn't like the carbon all that much. It was plenty strong enough but did stick to the CF. I assume he eventually got it fixed.