getZ

My spring rates are 200lb at all four corners, but I'm still sorting out the car yet and haven't really made a strong attempt to dial everything in yet. Here is Arizona the race season is just beginning. I haven't bottomed the suspension out from a launch but I'm still breaking in the motor so I'm still kind of taking it easy. With out both tires spining getting traction is tough. I landed up installing a limited slip from precision gear and it works well, but you need to get the r200 with the bigger ring gear bolts or make a shim for it. I've seen 1.6 sixty foots with several combinations of springs from 200 to 275lb spring rates on z cars so I guess it really depends on the rest of your setup and how good the track is that day or night.

I personaly only run a 225 50 16, but I have heard of guys running 235 getting them tucked inside the wheel wells without coilovers. I have set of later 280z hats with arizona z car springs and my car sits about 2 inches higher than the back wheels so your springs must really be low. You can also run a spring spacer if you can find one that fits, but your springs probably need to be replaced if you are sitting that low. One word of caution, if you change your ride height that much your camber will be way off for daily driving. Although it may give you a better tire contact area during a launch depending on how the car squats when you take off.

If you have a 240z latch you can make that work as well. Just line up the orginal latch, scribe an outline of the hole in the back, cut what you scribed and mount the cable latch. The only real problem I had was finding a nice mounting point for the latch cable because it gets really close to a latch mounting bolt. I landed up countersinking a small screw (stock m2 I believe) and mounting the latch plate to the base plate after I screwed the latch cable down and the countersunk screw is in between the plates.

What do you mean by rebuilding the top end? If you mean cam swap, intake and carb. How much horsepower potential you have really depends on which 350 you get. Start with one that has a good set of heads. Vortec heads came on late model trucks and those heads will support 400 hp, but the spring seats need to be machined for different springs. LT-1's are also a nice choice, but I think If I found a deal on that engine I would leave the fuel injection and not convert to a carb. Grab as many parts as you can off the donor car and hopefully that will help to limit how much other stuff you will need later. Often times it is cheaper to just buy the whole car and be able to pull parts as you need them.

There are several radiators that will work well, but that is just one part of the cooling system. The fan and shrouding play a big part in keeping the engine cool as well. I've got a massive custom Be Cool radiator in my camaro and it did a marginal job with an electric fan rated to 2300 cfm and no shroud on a hot day. I have a much smaller arizona z car radiator in my 240 with a taurus fan that's rumored to pull over 3500 cfm that does an excellent job with a condensor and tranny cooler in front of the radiator. The other day I was charging up the ac with the car idling for quite some time and the high speed part of the taurus fan kept the engine at 190 degrees. Mind you, it was about 105 degrees out that day.

You can get new ones or upgraded ones from MSA, but they are kind of expensive. I would check out the local boneyards or put an ad up.

I get about 20 mpg with a four speed auto and 3.9 gears. Keep your foot out of it and you get reasonably good gas mileage.

I guess I just give it try and see what I get. It's only for a couple of small parts, the trim around the map light (that I will make out of aluminum) and a face plate that goes around my vintage air control panel. Heat shouldn't be a problem. I don't think we will see a high under 100 degrees until next month.

If you still have doubts about the pump or the relay, you can always make them work by simply running a wire from the battery directly to each component and by pass the ignition and the computer. When I had an MSD fuel pump it was easy to tell when it was on because it was so loud. The old Holley one are just as noisy but the stock Nissan ones aren't so easy to tell they're on from inside the car.

Anybody ever use this wrinkle coating paint from Eastwood. http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=106&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=389&iSubCat=1440&iProductID=106. I had some small dash panel trim I wanted to try this on. Just wondered if anybody had an opinion/tips on this stuff.

Good luck finding those fittings, they are metric pipe thread. I finaly gave up, cut them off and reflared the lines to SAE pipe thread fittings.

I assume you are going to use this for the front and not the back. Not sure what you are calling a proportioning valve. My 240 has a proportioning valve installed to adjusting the biasing on the rear because I modified my front brake setup. If I was to install it on my car, it would go between the two front brakes and the distribution block (or pressure differential switch, there is a sensor in there). The line lock holds the pressure in the line after you release the brakes. It's a selenoid/shut off valve. You step on the brakes, activate the line lock, release the brakes, then stage. By the way, it's not really a good idea to use a toggle switch. I've seen people forget to release it when they go down the track.

Beware of the "while I'm at it" It took me about 6 months. How picky you get about some of the details can also add a considerable amount of time and money. One of the biggest hangups was exhaust. There is no prefabbed kit for that and I made it myself with prebent mandrels. Of course you could always pay a shop, but how tight do you want it to fit with how much ground clearance you need will also be a factor. I simply hammered the tranny walls to gain more clearance, had I to do it again I would have cut it out and rewelded it. Do you want to change or upgrade parts "while you are at it." The r-180 is not that strong. Do you want to upgrade to an r-200 or better. Now that you have all kinds of new power, do you want to upgrade brakes? I'm adding ac to my car now, but landed up relocating the battery to the back to make room for all the hoses and wiring running around the engine bay.

http://www.darklair.com/monte/howto/howto.TPI_swap.html According to the author 90 to 92 tpi had the speed density. Why tpi? I bought one a while back, but the only thing I'm going to land up using is maybe the wiring harness. There are a lot of limitations with tpi systems, great bottom end torque but they run out of breathing room above 4000 rpm. It really depends on how much power you want to make and your preference on where you want your torque. I'll probably land up going with a complete Holley stealth ram instead.

When ever I have questions like that I look and see what other people are using and/or getting away with. The individual cylinder single coil packs are only something that has come out fairly recently (within the last 10 years on stock OEM stuff). Circle track guys and a lot of drag race guys still use single coil setups past 8000 rpm with no problems. Yeah sure, the multi-coil setup has been used in racing longer than that, but only on higher end race classes, unless of cours the cars came with them stock. I'm not really sure what the multi-coils give you for an advantage. I'm thinking it was more for reliability that performance. You don't have to run a high voltage (50,000 volts) over a long distance, hence less susceptability to arcing, but that's just my opinion.

I left my original pedal setup in the car. The stock clutch pedal spring keeps it in place and the automatic shifter can even be modified to look close to a stock 4 speed. Autometer guages are the only thing really giving it away that it is not stock, but of course it was my preference to try and give it a sleeperish look. You're not really fooling anybody with a big rumbly exhaust.

Every since I put stainless steel lines in the car, I have not been able to get the brake distribution block to seal quite right. I have the lines about as tight as you can get them and it still leaks. I did notice the seats inside the block had very shallow nipples compared to some of the other brass fitting I had laying around. I'm tired of fighting this and want to replace the block with two fittings. One is going to be just a straight piece and the other will have to be a three way fitting. Anybody know where you can get this weird metric pipe thread fittings?

The msd 6AL should fit in without any problems. It goes in between the stock triggering and the coil so nothing is eliminated. You just wire it in between. Use the ballast resistor if you have one. This should all be documented within the archives of this site. Try a search on MSD 6AL and you should even be able to find a wiring diagram. It is ideal to mount the MSD away from engine heat and moisture, but they do tend to be a little noisy, like static on the radio.

I had a buddy in high school with an early 70's corrolla with a hopped up 2-tc engine running a pair of dual side draft 45 webers. It was quick for the day running 14.0's in the quarter with one wheel burnouts. I think they had a twin cam engine j- spec (2-tg I think) that was a straight bolt in. believe with mods that engine was good for around 200+ horse, but good luck find that engine. I'm not sure a v-8 will fit without seriously cutting up the car. Even if you get the 350 in the engine bay the tranmission tunnel is not that big on those cars. found this link: http://www.toysport.com/webpages/Techinfo/References/toyota_twin_cam_article.htm

If your car had a ballast resistor and the distributor has points, you should run it. It will still run fine, but you tend to burn up points quickly.

sorry, I misunderstood what you said the first time. I have the guage not the sending unit. I think that left when I sold the motor.

I yanked my stock one out an replaced it with an autometer. PM me if you want it. It's going to be chucked otherwise.

I mounted my box in the passenger foot well. It is a little noisy. Sounds like static on the radio in between stations. When I start the AC install I'm going to relocate it under the dash. I guess it depends how loud your exhaust is. If you want noisy things to complain about, you can listen to the electric fuel pump buzzing away all the time. Mash the gas pedal and you forget about all those little noises.

I don't know if this would work for you application, but I've heard of people straightening out the tubes on their old gm tpi setup with large ball bearings and pushing them through the pipe.

Good information, but not quite what I was looking for. Is it possible for a sensor to read an offset, meaning it reads and functions but reads a consistant point or two off from another sensor?