getZ

Well shortening the axle doesn't look possible. I don't think it is possible to respline the axles because the spline diameter is bigger than the shaft diameter. Plan B; pop the cap off (which gains me a 1/8 of an inch), grind a little over an 1/8 inch off the end of the axle using a dremel which will take a while, but not put heat into axle and I gain just over a 1/4 inch. Put a little gasket sealer on end the axle, fill it up with grease, then bolt the cv shaft onto the companion flange. Check the cv for travel and binding throughout the range. Hopefully that will be all the extra room I need to keep things from binding up.

Keep in mind some aluminum driveshafts are bigger in diameter. In the 240z, there is not a lot of room in the tunnel if you want to squeeze in a dual exhaust.

Well, it seems like both my cv shafts are just a shade to long, maybe about 3/8 of an inch. I can't swing the strut tower back into place with the cv joint installed. I can understand why guys with really low cars are having problems with the cv's, at least with the same setup as mine. I don't have any experience with cv's but it seems to me when the shaft is installed there should be play going in and out to the diff. It shouldn't be pushed completely up to the outside with no more travel. 78zlt1 - wanna sell that short shaft with the long spline end? That way I only have to get one shaft modified. I did find a place that may shorten CV shafts for a reasonable amount: http://www.dutchmanms.com/pricesheet.html I will probably be giving these guys a call monday.

I measured my flipped set and the numbers are identical to 78zlt1. The short side actualy came in longer. short: 19 7/8" long 20 9/16" I don't know if the set of cv's I have were new or not, I got them off ebay.

What are you targeting for horseower, 800, 1200? Check out what the NMCA guys are doing, either big cubic inches with nitrous or massive single turbo. It's too bad z cars aren't allowed in the NMCA. It's for domestic cars only.

I didn't think about an aftermarket diff affecting how deep the shafts go into the pumkin, which would of course change the need for the overall shaft length. I have a brute strength lsd and the spline stops with about a quarter inch gap. Gnosez - does the Quaife unit seat comletely into the diff?

From what I can tell based on other members write ups is the correct length 300zxt shaft does not always work. I'm not sure if it's the year of the car, 240 vs 280. Looking through other pics, even if it worked it was close. Notice how compressed the boots are. A lof of guys have their boots almost completely squashed so they are almost out of travel going into the car. If the shaft locks into the pumkin you cannot have them in wrong, unless of course they are remanufactured incorrectly. The input spline shaft ends have different lengths

Stubs come out by just prying it on both ends. Two claw hammers work great.

How about an Oldsmobile rocket block for a 454 inch small block. I haven't seen anybody fit one yet. It has a taller deck, but I don't remember how much taller the block was.

78zlt1 - I believe the green is correct. At least that is what I have. Actualy if the remanufactured one I ordered is like yours. It would work, a long spline with a short shaft. I could mix the two sets and have a correct fitting set. Thanks for the pic! gnosez - Yes, I noticed my end cap being hit on the passenger side, I tried the short shaft on the passenger side and it worked much better, no binding anywhere. The only problem was it didn't lock into place, but it would work. I am concerned why you lost a ring and pinion. Maybe to much pressure being pushed into the carrier from the bearing pushing on the outer cap? Thanks for the info guys. I was beginning to think it was me or my setup. It sounds like others have had the same problem as well.

From what I can tell from other posts, the driver side is the short side shaft. I found one of the other guys forums where he landed up using two short shafts. I wanted to do this as well, after I get another short shaft. My concern was on the 300zxt shafts the input spline to the pumkin is a little different for both sides. The spline itself is fine, but the depth of the locking ring is a little different, at least enough where it will not lock into place. Tonight I will have a closer look and see what it is going to take to make it lock in. I realize other guys have just left it in there without the lock (it can't really go anywhere), but it still makes me a little uneasy about leaving it that way.

I couldn't find anybody who had any problems with the passenger side cv being to long, aside from not having the bearing flipped around. My issue is the bearing is flipped and it still is about a quarter inch to long. It's the shaft that sticks out past the bearing and will hit the end cap when the outside is pushed in. During this conversion I changed over to 280z control arms and MMS billet stub axles with the billet companion flange. Don't know if that has an bearing on the install, but I didn't think that should hurt anything. I noticed the gap between the cv joint and the pumkin is still about a quarter inch when the cv joint is seated. The only thing I could think of was I have an incorrect CV joint. It looks correct, but it was an ebay special.

Before you decide to cut a rearend up, I would figure out what size tire/rim combo you want to run first If you are going to tub or mini-tub your options for tire size will change to just about anything you want. Right now I have my whole rear suspension out, putting in coilovers and new axles, but I was checking out how big the stock rear tire wells are. I didn't take any exact measurements but it looks like better than 295 would fit inside a stock wheel well with no flares, probably slightly bigger if you like a real tight fit. I can post pictures of a 275 inside the wheel well if you want an idea of the room you have to work with, but it is only a 25 inch tall tire. A lot of drag tires run a bit taller.

The paint looks immaculate. How long did it take to do all the wet sanding? .....and I see a chevelle in one of the pictures. Did you guys paint Roberts chevelle? You gotta post pictures of that interior!

The paint looks immaculate. How long did it take to do all the wet sanding? .....and I see a chevelle in one of the pictures. Did you guys paint Roberts chevelle?

I would check the driveline angle if you are going to mix and match parts of different manufacturers. When I went to order mines, they were out of stock, so I made my own with rectangle stock and 5/8 flat stock. I like mines better anyway. It has notches for exhaust clearance, plus it gave me another couple inches of ground clearance. This isn't a great pic, but you can get the idea. BTW the exhaust was not tightened down at the time so it's slightly rotated and lowered. I forgot to mention there is a driveshaft hoop there in the picture between the exhaust that is not part of the crossmember.

I gave up on the stainless hose. It looks pretty, but it doesn't last any longer than regular hose, plus it scratches up any aluminum it slides over. I like the ultra light or the socketless aeroquip. Oh yeah and no more pin pricks from the stupid frayed ends.

Looks good, but where is the mass flow sensor? The reason I ask is I will doing something similar in the future with a stealth ram intake. BTW, what is the front elbow diameter? It looks a little small for an intake.

That is awesome! It looked like a lot of work, but you really nailed the stance and fit. When's the paint job now that you got the fenders rolled?

The fit looks good. I assume the orignal engine was equiped with a power steering pump. Is there a pulley you can get to replace the pump pulley?

You can always run an another regulator to the pipes. My compressor will charge up to 175psi, but my lines never see over a 100 psi. I was planning on running a line to the side of my house over the attic just using regular compressor hose. The funky orange home depot ones I have are about ten years old with no signs of aging. Its about 20 bucks for a 50 foot hose. They are rated to 300 psi. If you want it to look pretty, tack it on to a strip of wood every foot or so. Easy enough to replace every ten years. As far as compressors go, I like my Ingersol Rand. You can get them pretty reasonable and direct shipped though Northern tools: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_6970_87

I can't say succesful since it my car has never been out on a road course, but I attached a picture of what I did. My cooler is really for a transmission, but it could easily have been an engine oil cooler as well. I also relocated the filter up front as well. Note there is a condensor for ac in between the cooler and the radiator. The 280zx turbos had the cooler mounted in the passenger wheel well, but if you are going to do that I would put a screen over it to keep rocks from dinging it up unless you run a stacked plate style cooler like the B+M ones.

Hawaii has some quirky rules about modifications to cars. I don't know all the details since I haven't lived their since high school. If I remember right it had to get inspected and I always got varying information on how detailed the inspections were for heavily modified vehicles like prostreeters. Some guys said you had to have the welds inspected. I don't know how true that was. I suppose the easiest way around it was to have the vehicle registered. Once its registered it no longer has to be inspected. Until the local cop pulls you over and you don't have a "recon" sticker on the window, but if you had sticker for just mag wheels you could probably slide. Yes, officialy you even need a recon sticker for aftermarket wheels, but I don't think they ever enforced that much. At least there's no smog. Oh yeah, and I like the engine choice. It should be a nice combo, but the tranny may be a little tight, depending on the setback you use.

that is real strange. I'm not totaly conviced it's the fan yet. Here is another point of attack. You can only try this when the car has cooled off a bit. Disconnect the fan and put a meter on the battery. Watch the voltage with the car running in park and drive. The rpm drop in the engine should not be causing the problem unless it stumbling badly. The only thing I could think of that would be different in park vs drive is stepping on the brake pedal. A possible short somewhere?

I have a 93 taurus fan with a summit 100 amp alternator. Later I switched to a 140 to take care of all the other electrical junk I added. In either case I never had any problems. My idle is set a little on the high side in "park" at around 900 rpm. Engaging the ac and putting the car in drive with the brake on never drops the engine below 700 rpm. This is also a carbed engine with one wire setups on both alternators. One way to check if the wire guage is to small, is to feel if it is getting hot. If it's uncomfortable to touch you about due to fry a wire. Is the voltage changing at idle? What size fuses are you running on the fan. I use a 50 amp on the high speed and 30 amp on the low speed. Are you taking out fuses? Are you using both high and low speeds of the fan. I never run the high speed although it works fine enough, but it does draw the voltage down, never measured it, but the lights were dimming with the 100 amp alternator.