getZ

If you have 240z you probably can't go to an 8 inch depending on which motor mounts you went with. The JTR mounts will put the harmonic balancer right over the steering rack. I run a 7 inch without the body spacers I got from JTR. As far as size, this is one case I have heard bigger is better. I always thought weight influenced how well the balancer worked, so I assume smaller or lighter (aluminum) would let the engine spin quicker but lose some its ability to dampen, but that's just my two cents. You can write directly to a manufacturer like Fluidamper to get the real facts. By the way if you don't plan on a radical build (high rpm), you don't need an SFI speced damper and that will save you a few bucks. I have had good luck with the Pioneer ones from summit spinning to 6000 rpm.

you can get a pretty good coarse alignment with a few simple tools. Some long pieces of wood or tubing put against each tire ,measured front and back. I don't remember the specs but the front tires point in toward each other by a few degrees. If the front wheels are perfectly parallel, the steering wheel does not automaticly return to being straight out of a turn. An angle finder against a piece of wood or metal against the tip for top to bottom tilt. Again, they are not always perfectly straight up, there may be a slight angle to it. Just be careful test driving it, keep the speed down and get it to a shop when you can.

I have a similar set up for my camaro rear willwoods. It's just the mounting bracket that's not so readily available. I suppose it could be fabricated out of a half inch thick piece of aluminum using off the shelf calipers. Just don't lose the one pad that is not glued on to the side. Mine rolled off somewhere and I had trouble finding out what the part number was.

I have a pre 86 sbc and 200 4r in a 72 and had to do more bashing than I wanted to. I made my own tranny mount and had to widen the tunnel for that. I also added two race mufflers underneath and had to widen for that as well. I even went as far as to cut some of the lateral supports under the seat and reweld them back. If I was to do it again, I would have just cut out most of the transmission tunnel and replaced it. It starts to distort the floor when you hammer that much. From the inside of the car it is hardly noticable, but it does get a little tight near the gas pedal.

There's another benefit for moving the battery out of the engine bay. It gets it away from all the engine heat. Batteries last longer if you keep them cooler....of course if you live in the desert there's no such thing during the summer.

Just in my experience, every directional muffler I have seen was labled directly on the muffler input and output: spintech, hooker aero chambers and flowmasters.

I had an engine with 180,000 with barely anything measurable for wear with a dial bore guage. It checked out with the book I bought. I think it was "How to Rebuild Nissan Engines." If you don't have a guage I would take it to a machine shop and have it checked. I would make sure the bore taper up/down the cylinder and out of round is not to big or your rebuild will not last. It doesn't cost a whole lot more to have the block bored, but I would also find a shop that could do torque plate honing as well if it needed an overbore.

I found one at bowtie overdrives, but it just occured to me that since there was no sensor on the tranmission it was probably an OEM thing that could probably be found in a junkyard.

Summit had a few for cheap, but I they were all AN style if memory serves me correct. They were edelbrock and Summit brand.

I just realized I need a park/neutral safety lockout for the starter motor to pass tech at the local track. This is for a 200r4 tranny. I couldn't find a premade kit. I could fabricate one with electronic sensors, and some relays, but that is time consuming. I really wanted to get it on the track this friday.

sorry, I had few pics before I welded it up, but I lost all the photos when the computer crashed last time. It's fairly simple. Make sure you prep your tank for welding first. Drill out the original fuel line and a new hole for an extra return line (just above the old one is a nice flat spot. Make sure the bit size you use is just slightly bigger than the bulkhead AN fitting. Since I was adding a sump to the bottom of the tank, there were now four 2 inch holes on the bottom of the tank. Form the line from the bulkhead fitting into the bottom and back of the sump (through one of the holes). I would leave at least half an inch of gap to the back of the sump. Tighten down the newly formed tube to the bulkhead. This is where it gets a little tricky because you can't get to the inside of the tank to tighten down the bulkhead nuts very easily. I had to reach through the sending unit hole with a short combination wrench. I also tied a string to the end of the wrench so when I dropped it I could retrieve it. The return line doesn't have to go into the sump, but I left mine at the bottom of the tank. Without the line you will hear the retun line spew gas back into the tank when it gets low on gas. Using an aluminum clamp minus the rubber, I riveted the lines down to the bottom of tank inside the sump(not bottom of the sump) When welding up the sump, take care to quench the bottom where the line contacts. If you use stainless you don't have to worry about this part.

You make all that power out of a single 2.5 inch exhaust or is that 3 inch?

Don't feel so bad. I did the same thing a few days ago on my camaro. That's why I brought it up. The only reason I diagnosed mine right away is because I have a rail mounted fuel guage. I could hear the pump turn on yet there was no pressure. Little things like that help diagnose problems

just an fyi. If your tank is stock there is a drain plug underneath. No need to siphon.

Check to see if you have fuel pressure to the rails. Remember fuel injection regulators control the output not the input. They bleed off excess pressure not restrict input fuel pressure like carbureted systems. I like the mechanical guages that just use male pipe thread to attach to the rails. Simple, relatively cheap and they work. By the way, you won't get fuel to the rails if you hook up the fuel lines to the wrong input/output.

this may have nothing to do with it, but what kind of switch are you running?

I was just thinking about that backfire when you said you shut the coil down and if backfired. If the exhaust system is hot enough it's going to ignite the gas anywhere in that exhaust line. You may have to run it rich a while before you throw the switch, even at that I'm not sure it's going to work.

If you are worried about the sump lines running out the back you can do what I did. Run a pickup line from the back of the tank into to sump. When I cut several little holes in the bottom of the tank I was able to reach through and feed the line into the sump (or where the sump was to be welded). I used 6 AN bulkhead fittings into an aluminum fuel line. Somebody around here used solid stainless steel lines. On the return line, I ran a line down to the bottom again with aluminum line and a bulk head 6AN fitting so the gas doesn't make so much noise sloshing down.

You can also get info on this from the centrifical supercharger guys who boost with carbs as well. Same set of problems, sealing the carburetor, fuel pressure readings, etc.

check to see if you are losing spark at the engine when the tail pipe spark engages. If you don't lose engine spark the gas will burn in the engine instead of at the tail pipe.

What year is that tank from? I have 73 with a tank modified very similar, but the top vent tube come straight out the side on the driver side instead out the back in a 90 degree elbow. It was never a problem until I decided to cut out part of the spare tire well to make room for a second muffler. Then the outlet was running to close to the muffler. I bent the line to point backward, but it kinked. It's still functional, but I'm sure it doesn't flow as well now (not that it's going to really hurt me). By the way, the vent tube is a pretty big diameter hose, something like 15mm. You have to order ahead if you want it done quickly since the local auto parts store don't usually carry a fuel line that big. Heater hose will work for a short amount of time, but some hoses not rated for gasoline don't stand up for very long. I used an half inch oil cooler line I happend to have sitting around that I muscled on there, thank goodness rubber stretches.

First of all, be careful about leaving a coil hooked up to 12v. An engine while running, pulses a coil to only fire when needed. A constant 12 for an extended period of time will overheat and blow up an oil filled coil. I know this from first hand experience. It's an oily mess that goes everywhere. This nice thing about an MSD 6 it makes a nice trouble shooting aid. Put the output of the coil to a spark plug and ground the electrode of the plug. The white wire of the MSD is used to trigger a spark and by grounding and ungrounding the white wire you will get an arc across the spark plug gap.

I don't have digital mics, but I like my Starret analog stuff from: http://www.mytoolstore.com/starrett/staindex.html Although still a few hundred bucks. I don't think they really got any cheaper.

I had one a couple of engines ago. Fit was okay. Sound was louder, but not obnoxious. As far as perfomance, I can't say I ever really tested it out. I never liked the stock performance of a 240z engine so eventualy it was replaced with a turbo engine and then a small block chevy. I bought mines off of ebay and picked up localy in Phoenix. Too bad you didn't ask six months ago when it was still sitting on the side of my house. Eventually, I just gave it away.

what year and what type of engine do you have?