dustin280zx

I've had that same problem when my zx was still an L28e in high school. I only got 15mpg, it was down on power, and running rich. I disconnected the oxygen sensor and nothing changed (motor rpm, rev, ect.). Replaced the oxygen sensor and ran like a champ. Got about 21-22 mpg non highway driving.

Do you have splayed caps on your two bolt? If they're stock caps I would get splayed or look for a 4 bolt (not the 010 4 bolts there worth some money, but the ones you get for free). 500 whp isn't asking for much. I made 509 at the wheels on 5.5 pounds of boost. My ring gap is 13 thousandths. I would get some 1.6 rockers to help bump your lift up. Master Power are good turbos and unless you want to make about 650 or higher (I think people has made that with MP70) at the wheels I see no reason to switch turbos..unless you ruin the turbo. I think you should be able to get 500 horse easy with 10 pounds of boost. I have my timing locked at 27* and another pull 8* out at 7psi. Thats really safe for carburetor. Don't mess up Fuel injected and carburetor because you can set you timing alot more retarded than carburetor. If you retard the timing too much on carb motors your headers will glow. Some guys run 10* locked with Fuel Injected Turbo motors. Don't be afraid to bump that rev up alittle. My bottom end isn't nothing too special. Its a steel crank, froged I Beam rods, and forged pistons. and I rev it to 7000. You should be fine at 6500. The thing with the blocks is that two bolts can't hold much power because of the two bolt mains. You get splayed caps and they can hold 900hp at the motor(1000 max I would want to go) but thats it. Thats only with the older two bolts with the long pad (up near the water pump where the head goes on) that have a stronger casting. With the 010 4 bolts (they also have a long pad)the have a higher nickel casting which makes them stronger but not as good as the old splayed cap two bolt. The 4 bolts and two bolts that have the short pad are poop and can't hold any power. I have the four bolt short pad now. Luckily mine stayed together so far and hopefully will stay together until I finish building my 388 two bolt. The reason mine is 350 is for extra strength . Most poeple would call me nuts or bullshit for using that block and making the kind of power I am. But I'm in college and I work with what got and I had alot of parts laying around that built my engine.

Actually that guy took it off because it sent fragments up through his turbo. I hardly see anybody using them anymore because of this. Its cheaper to weld a cracked header (if it does crack) then fix a turbo.

Yes the chain is old school, but still effective. I spent 5 dollars for hardened chain compared to 100+ for a damper and that's why I used the chain. Attached is a picture of flex pipe being used on the crossover pipe for the hot side. Some people experience cracked headers and some people never experience them.

FIRST OFF, tell me what your engine combo is, and what your goals are for the car. Are you going to be fuel injected or blowthrough?

Jerry, I know you guys are running slicks but did you try the drag radials or ET streets and couldn't get traction? What rpm do you cross at and what size tire? I got the turbo to spool faster and hold more boost (I can hold 7 pounds on the street without the ebrake now and only holding 6 at the track with the e-brake) and I think I'm going to run into problems other than not being legal for the nines. They haven't said anything to me about certs. yet so we'll see. They'll probably shut me down if I put up a high 9.60 or low 9.70. I'm shooting for 145 in the 1/4 this spring. I only want one good pass and then I'll turn to boost back. Thanks for your information, Dustin

I would not mount the turbo to the frame. I know its heavy (i think 46 pounds). Set the turbo in there, then imagine the headers going to the turbo and EVERY aspect, (air filter, wastegate, hot side, cold side, oil feed, oil return, is the return at the turbo higher than in the pan, ect.) Build the headers. You will probably need to build two because if you're like me, I forget something and didn't have enough clearance for it. That turbo is a MONSTER and A pain. I saw your pictures and thats near the location of my first design which would've been good but I didn't like the headers. Weld a chain to the frame and then bolt it to the block. Little engine movement With the Flex Pipe- Most guys don't use them anymore because they come apart and send it through the turbo. The bad without using one is the header are more prone to cracking, but to put a patch of weld over the crack is cheaper than fixing a turbo.

Ferrari Since I'm throwing a few back after a long enduring week of exams and my favorite kind of beer is free beer which I'm drinking now courtesy of my friend. FREE beer that's not your kind OR your brand beer that you paid for

If I where you I would buy the tires from summit or jegs so they are new. If they are old they harden and don't hook up well. Just ask how old the tires are at the speed shop. If they are 2 or 3 years old I would not advise you to buy them. I think the swasticas are 6" but you can try the tires. They spec that for optimal tread wear and displacement I believe.

I hope not because I have 4 lugs. haha. As many v-8 z's there are no reportings of that yet? Or mustangs? There's probably a greater chance if the lugs back off somehow and the wheel shifts outward putting more stress on the studs. Wouldn't you think tony D? I've had people tell me I'll shear mine off which are long arp studs. Sadly those same people also ask if my car is fuel injected while they're staring right at the carburetor. Then they get mad when I tell them its a stock rear and suspension because they think I'm feeding them BS. It confuses them I guess. I thought I was close to right. Loose wheels equal shearing of lugs. It's the same principle of why I can put a 10mm ring on my lsd with out spacers. Static Friction. http://www.txwerks.com/images/Install_Docs/Wheel%20Stud-Nut%20Installation%20Notes.pdf

The r200 I pulled from the 300zx was a 3.7 like all of them are. I traded a 3.9 r200 i had for a 3.54 r200 and put the lsd center section in that. The MT's I'm running are 26" I don't really know if I'm going to sell the zx or not. If I do it will probably be rolling chassis so I can just swap everything over into the Malibu. But that's only if the money is right. I would let it go as a whole if the money is right too because I have another sbc block that's saying stroke me. I don't have to sell it but I'm not doing much more to the car because it's already faster than whats it legal for. It's sad but I think the most fun of the project is when your building it and then it peaks after that first good run down the strip and to know you did everything yourself. But with the malibu I want a granny car with a column shift, bench seats and top it off with some good granny steel wheels. BUT I have to find a Malibu that I like first because I don't want to be stuck with nothing to race this spring and summer. I don't know if you know this or not, but the 700r4 can get expensive depending on how much power you put to them. But the overdrive is nice

Where are you located?

The car is done and tuned in close. I did a few things to make it spool faster than before so it should go 9.60s - 9.70's if I get the 60' down. I have the mph. We'll see this spring. Still alittle rich at low boost. There are pictures on this thread of the car and the times it went. I found the 300zx lsd at a junkyard for 100 bucks about two years ago. It was from an 88 turbo 300zx. The rear gear is 3.54. The wheels are 15x8 sportmaxx all around. The rear tires and 235/60 mt drag radials and fronts are 225/50 tires that are v rated for speed. I forget the name. I really don't like the big wheels on cars and I would've kept the stock rims if they were in better shape and where 15 inch. Wheels have no spacers. The car is not a daily driver but I do drive it alot when I'm home. My main goal was to build a car that ran on pump gas to drive it to the track and run 10.00 flat. The cars exceeds that goal so I'm happy. But I think I might be done with the zx because I dont have the heart to put an 8 point cage in and make it a "race" car. I like the heater, cd player, and all that other stock stuff. My new plans are a F2 procharged or s480 turbo 388 CI 1979 or 1978 malibu that will run pump gas and low nines with no intercooler because they're a pain in the ass. I am looking for a cheap malibu that I can fix up so by the time I get out of grad school (3 years) I should have a solid body and money for the motor.

I'm using a stock rebuild 1.76 powerglide i found for 75 bucks. It has a tci manual valve body and the stock rebuild kit was the one with the red clutches. I got the rebuild kit off ebay for like 25 bucks because seller made an error in listing it and I was lucky to stumble upon it. I didn't have to make any modification to the tranny tunnel.

I'm not sure I understand your question. I'm not running an intercooler and my car was L28E (non-turbo) before I did this conversion. If you can't get your stock intercooler out then cut it out. I cut out the stock radiator support and fabbed my own up which made alot more wiggle room. I took out all the fuel injected wiring and the battery box. Just look at the pictures.

You really can't tell from the pics, but my trubo is angled in towards the motor. I tried all different ways and with that big of turbo thats the only way I could make it fit without it sticking out of the hood. If you have a turbo with a t4 exhaust housing (mpt70) then it will be alot easier. To whom this may concern I'm running a -4an feed and a -12an drain on the turbo with not drain issues even though it is mounted low.

Here are some more pictures.

It has a 5 point. I fixed all the rusted spots(floorboards) and used alittle heavier gauge metal but thats it. The 5 point really makes it solid. I'm running 16 pounds on the rich side (11.1) injected with water/meth. No IC.

The only wires that go up past the headers are the wires for the headlight and fan and they are wrapped. All the vacuum lines are secured and away from the heat. The headers aren't close to the starter and the battery and ignition is inside the car. The only thing that got burnt from the headers are my hands from checking plugs. But yes there is some major heat under there. Once I get the headers coated it shouldn't be as bad.

The best part is that my girlfriend and I went on about an hour ride listening to some country with the tops off today without changing a thing from last night.

First run- Had a boost leak. 60' 1.677 1/8 6.56 1/8 mph 111.27 1/4 10.08 1/4 mph 138.9 Second run- I tried to hold more boost but it pushed me through the lights and tripped the timer so the times aren't too acurate but mph is good. I figure it to be a low 9.90 or high 9.80. The front wheels seen daylight . 60' 1.73 1/8 6.54 1/8mph 113.01 1/4 10.01 1/4 mph 140.52 PUMP GAS I'll put the videos up and some pictures up tomorrow when i'm back up at school for all you nay sayers. I might go to the track next weekend for a test and tune just to get a 9 second slip.

Grumpy, I know the blocks just came out not too long ago, but have you heard anything on the Dart SHP block? I'd like to see what kind of horsepower some guys are pushing them too. Dart says 600 but they have to hold more than that.

If you use the SSAC headers put a straight edge on the header flange. Mine had alittle dip in. (1/8") But other than that I haven't seen any problems with them.

I did not just pull that statement out of the air. If it wasn't proven many times then I would not have stated that but that is the rule of thumb. Yes you do have all those variables with the shot and so forth. But lets say everything is equal. You run a XX "shot" that will see 20 hp gain on an NA. You run that SAME XX shot, same air temp, humidity, bottle pressure, ect. on a FI motor and you get a 40hp increase. Now why did that show a bigger hp gain compared to that the same shot on the NA motor? You get the horsepower increase from the nitrous shot itself PLUS you greatly decrease the AIT's. I believe for every 10 degrees dropped you gain 1% horsepower (motor). So thats how you get the extra gain. So if you don't run an intercooler you will see the biggest gain compared to other FI motors because you have nothing to lower the AIT's. But from what I've read and people I talked to that are very knowledgeable about FI motors it is usually double or close to double. here is my reference http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php Just search "nitrous" in turbo tech and carburetor+boost forums and you'll find guys that have done this test.