silicone boy

But you've ruined the soul of your car!!!!! Oh no! What have you done!!!!

This is stolen from a site some of the RX7 swappers will recognize (swapcartech.com), and I'm sure you have tried this, but it may help others go through the troubleshooting systematically. Hope you find the answer. Ignition/Spark Troubleshooting. LS1 - First things first, make sure all sensors are plugged in. The Cam sensor and the Crank sensor both are directly related to spark. Without them, you will have none. The cam sensor is the sensor located behind the intake mani on the black. It is just below the map sensor. The crank position sensor is located behind the starter and is a bear to get to. Easiest way to plug that in is to remove the starter (2 bolts). - Now that you are sure your sensors are all plugged in, check your grounds. There are three grounds that come off the ls1 harness at the rear of the drivers side fuel rail. These all need to have a solid ground. Check the ground coming off your battery as well. Be sure all paint is removed from where it's grounded. Next you must make sure that your engine block is grounded. All the sensors use the engine block as a ground. Also check your ground that you made at the passenger footwell coming off the harness. - Now you have all the sensors plugged in and everything grounded. Next is power. There are two sources of power you need, ign-on and 12 volts constant. We will start with 12 volts constant. You will need to get a voltmeter out and check that this is getting power to it. They are pins Blue 20 and Blue 57 and these must be 12 volts at all time. The function of the 12 volt constant is to keep the PCM volital memory alive, so it does not have to go thru the relearn cycle. If this wire is not getting any voltage, run a wire directly to the positive battery terminal, be sure to put a fuse inline (5 amps is fine). The wire you will be testing is orange. The next power source is the 12 volts ign-on wire. This is the pink wire coming from your harness in the passenger footwell. The power for relay coils, igniters, sensors, etc. comes from this wire. This is pin 19 blue connector on your harness. You must test this with the ignition switched on. If you get voltage when it is switched on, you are fine. If not, find a wire that is hot only when the ignition is on and remains hot while cranking. - Now you have power, ground, and all sensors plugged in. Now go back and check for the following: - 12v going to blue 20 and blue 57 - pins 1 and 40 are grounded on both blue and red Easiest way to check this is to unplug the pcm, if you have not already, and test from there. I've found that sticking a paper clip in the pin and touching the paper clip is the easiest way for this. - Now you are fine the way of power and grounds going to the pcm. Next is the coils. To test that power is getting to the coils properly, you must measure the pink wire going into each main coil pack connector. There are two of these connectors, one on each bank. This shuold be 12 volts with ign-on and no lower than 10 volts while cranking. If this tests out, you now know that the coil packs are getting power (the pink wire you tapped into ign-on is working properly) - Now you have power, ground, sensors plugged in, and power to your coils with and without cranking. Next you need to test your plug wires. Simple way to do this is to test for continuity through them. This problem is the least likely to have happened. - If, at this point, you have no spark still, something else is wrong. You have assured that your pcm is getting the proper power. You need to check that your pcm is still alive. All pcm's from 1999+ in the f-bodies can be swapped out. 1998 is on it's own. Take your pcm into an f-body that matches and test it int here. You cannot hurt the car by doing this. If the car starts, then your pcm is fine. If not, then you know where your problem lies. Do not try someone elses pcm in your car, try yours in their car first. - If the pcm does work, check power from the sensors. You will need to look up your specific pcm pin layout and see where the sensor is feeding the pcm. If your sensor is dead, this is the way to tell. It must be giving you some feedback (cam or crank). If not, there is your culprit. - If after all that, you still are getting no spark....something very odd has happened. Theoretically you should be up and running at this point. Make sure that you do, in fact, not have spark. Pull the plug end of the plug wire off and stick a screwdriver in it. Place it near a ground, then crank. There should be a spark in between the two. If you do have spark, start checking for fuel related issues. If no spark, look over everything again. So from what I've read so far, try to steal a cam and crank sensor from your friend with the f-body. He'll never know what hit him. __________________

Even though I'm now an LS series fan, I love the way that LT intake looks....like a giant spider sitting there under your hood. Nice work

Sweet! I've thought about drag racing lately. Haven't had the desire before, but so many of you are into it that I'm curious what my car will do. Then again, I'd start breaking parts.

Great project. The good news is you can make some real strong, durable and efficient headers by getting the LT1 Corvette headers, cutting the flange and welding on a T3 flange, and flip them over. There is just enough room under the Z hood for the turbos if they sit at the midpoint of the engine just behind the shock towers. Other configurations are also possible, and you will probably have to use external wastegates.

Dude, are F-body drivers the worst in the world or are they just 20 something boys trying to impress chicks. In any case, god bless them for making their cars available.

God bless F body and Vette drivers for creating perfectly good donor drivetrains for us swappers to play with!

I would say get the book and read it a couple of times. That would make it easier, as would keeping you original wiring if possible. I ripped out a perfectly good harness. If you are using a SBC, carbureted is not a bad way to go. As far as T56's they are a lot cheaper than they used to be. I need to get a decent tune and crank the boost up before I get some dyno numbers. The baseline numbers were 450 RWHP and 500 TQ, not great but there's a lot more in there.

You are welcome anytime.

I'm more of a road course guy.

BTW, Mike is right. An LS2 swap would be awesome.

The basic conversion was easy, but I got carried away (lost focus), and this was very hard: While you don't really need the JTR book with all the expertise here, it has a lot of pictures. I like pictures because I don't read much.

rskt8ker, where in colorado are you?

It fits like a glove.

This is totally unrelated, but when I read "Fort Hood" I thought of that John Travolta sci-fi movie "Battlefield Earth", one of the worst movies in the history of movies:lmao:. Anyway, the Earth has been taken over by a race of giant humanoids, and John is their leader. There is a resistance movement, and a couple of redneck dudes (I don't like using that word, but it fits here) say, "Hey Earl, let's go to FORT HOOD and see what we can scare up!". Later in the movie, at the perfect time, Earl and his buddies show up like the cavalry, not with small arms like you'd expect, but in Apache helicopters! Now, I may be wrong, but don't helicopter pilots, especially Apache pilots take a few million dollars and year or so to train ? Especially the weapons systems. These must be different Apaches. These are the ones with the controls laid out like an F-150 pickup truck

You know, it's kinda strange because up until now, I thought of those smilies as being asexual, like the Teletubbies (until Jerry Falwell accused one of them of being gay)

Oh, that's awesome. I'm gonna steal that!

All the connective tissue issues have not been substantiated. It's harder to detect an implant leak, and that's the biggest downside, except that your GF/wife may get more attention from others and dump you because you pay more attention to your car/work than you pay to her. I've seen it happen BTW, how do you post smilies? Nevermind, I see that I just did without knowing it

That's why we have wastegates.

Just remember Grump, when considering upgrading, implants are just like American cars-there's no replacement for displacement, only in cubic centimeters rather than cubic inches. Ya got your 300 (large B or small C), kinda like a 302 or 305 5.0 liter. Gets the job done but why bother. Some people like a 325cc for aesthetic reasons (like some people like a 327). Then you have your basic 350cc--that's like a full C, a good all around performer, not too big or too small. A 400, that's a small big block or a small D. You can pump that up to 425 (427 or 428 CI) , or even 450cc (or 454 CI) to impress your friends. Now, if you go over 500CI or CC's, that's just too big to be practical, although some may not care. --silicone boy....plastic surgeon to the cars

Remember what happened the last time you asked when I posted pictures of some man boobs. You don't want to have to suffer through that again, do you?

Well it's about the cost of an LS7 shortblock, or about $6500, but the silicone implants cost more, so add about a thousand to that. Only about $3500 of that goes to me (the rest is overhead, anesthesia, etc), but it takes about 30-45 minutes, and it's a lot easier on your body than rebuilding a transmission. Some of that profit goes directly into the purchase of car parts, so it recycles into the economy. See? Everyone benefits.

My daughters are heavily involved in dance competitions (ballet, jazz, etc). Last summer we took them to Vegas for a competition. There was a very talented young lady from Socorro who had to drive 90 minutes each way 6 days a week to get to a studio in Albequirky, and that's in the middle of nowhere! Talk about dedication.

Believe it or not, I have had terrible results with the Home Depot brand name ones (like Ryobi, Dewalt, etc) compared to the Harbor Freight ones. Maybe it's just me, but I have a scar on my abdomen to prove it when one I bought from HD exploded. I guess you'll have to see which works best for you, but wear protection or it can ruin your day.

Hehe. It's really sad that the only pair of bare breasts they have ever shown in Maxim magazine belonged to that dude who had them put in on a dare. To make matter worse, he had a really hairy chest.