Cable

Thanks for the help Guy. Just wondering, it what way does your gauge read off? Also, anyone know the ohm range of a Ford sender?

Hey guys, me again. I don't know if we are talking about the samething. My engine/trans sit "crooked" or "angled" in comparasion to the frame rails, car body, etc. It isn't very much, but enough for me to notice the tailshaft was pointing slightly toward the driver rear tire. So, because I worry about things too much I decided to remove the JTR supplied tranny crossmember and "slot" the stock tranny mount hole so I could move the tailshaft so its pointing dead center toward the rear decklid keyhole. I loosened the motor mount nuts to allow easier movement. The good news it worked (to a point), the bad news is I didn't "slot" it enough (only .5" or so) to get where I wanted it. So, I am going to remove it again tomorrow and "slot" the hole even more to get the tailshaft inline with the rest of the car. What do you guys think?

Dead pic links. Any chance of fixing them? I'd love to see the engine pics.

So, if I am understanding it correctly, the horizontal angle isn't as important than the vertical angles, correct? I haven't even got my 280z moving yet, but I ask because I noticed that the motor/trans aren't sitting exactly even length-wise with the rest of the car. I am worried that the minor "crooked" engine/trans alignment would cause problems. It is still possible to correct, but I would have to pull everything back out and 'slot' the mounting holes even more. Should I even bother?

I don't have coil overs, and plan on keeping it that way. But I have a question. I plan on running Draglites in a 15x8 rear width with 235/60/15 Yoko tires. Weld are offers Draglites in a 4.5" and 5.5" backspacing with the 15x8 rims. Which one should I go with? Thanks guys!!

Hey Gary, I think this what you were talking about yesterday @Travis' BBQ.

I've been searching for hours and still haven't found any info on using 280zx brakes/strut housings on a 240/260/280z.

Taken from another post, but I didn't want to highjack that topic. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=6873 I have heard about using a 1st GEN F-Body (Camaro/Firebird) rotor/hub on 1st GEN Z's, they use the same bearing and just bolt on without any other mods. You still have to figure out what to do about calipers, but that's easy enough. Does anyone else have anymore input on this?

I have heard about using a 1st GEN F-Body (Camaro/Firebird) rotor/hub on 1st GEN Z's, they use the same bearing and just bolt on without any other mods. You still have to figure out what to do about calipers, but that's easy enough. Does anyone else have anymore input on this?

TTT

Hey guys, I am in the process of collecting all the needed Auto Meter Sport-Comp gauges for my dash and just remembered that I have no idea what fuel level gauge to buy. Someone told me that my 280z has a 10-73 ohms sender, but Auto Meter doesn't list that as an option. So how do I make everything work? I did a search and didn't come up with much. Any help is thanked in advance.

Hey Pete still have that link? The one now is dead.

One more thing and the front struts on my Z. Since I am using REAR struts on the front of my Z from a MR2, what should year MR2 should I source the rear struts from? Thanks again guys!!

I believe Darius is running a ProCharger, he has it all under the stock hood. Anyone know what model he is using? Thanks.

I guess I didn't understand what the first two replies then, my mistake. No offense was intended. Okay, just because I don't want to misunderstand. If I section the struts ABOVE the spring perch, this mod alone will NOT change the ride height, is this correct? As far as the struts themselves.... I had planned on taking 1.5"-2" from the front strut tubes, then running a REAR MR2 strut insert. Same goes for the rear strut tubes, except running FRONT 280z strut inserts inside them. If any space is left inside the tube with the new length tubes and inserts, I'll just make some type of spacer to keep everything tight. Does everything sound good?

Thanks for the replies guys, but just to be clear I have no plans to go with coilovers, just stock type lowering MSA springs. One more thing, I don't want to sound ungreatful, but neither replies answered my main question: Does sectioning the strut tubes (alone) lower the car's ride height?

Hey, guys. I did a search and couldn't find the info I was looking for. Anyway, I need to section my strut tubes because of my 1.5-2.0 lowering springs being installed. However, I don't want to lower the car any more than it already will be. I am no engineer, but it would seem to me sectioning the strut tubes would lower the car even more, correct? I am sure the lower spring mount could be raised, but is there a way to section the tubes, keep the same ride height, without moving the lower spring mount? Thanks for the help guys.

Does anyone have pictures showing the step by step process? I need to section my front and rear struts, using aftermarket springs, but still staying within 2" of the original ride height.

The JTR manual says that VW Rabbit struts will be perfect with front sectioned tubes.

I'd like to hear more about this car. Hell, pictures would be great. Thanks!!

http://www.procharger.com/chevy.shtml

I am highly considering doing the same thing. Running 2.5" dual headpipes into a dual 2.5" inlet/3" outlet Y-pipe just before the rear suspension. Then a 3" pipe under the rear suspension and into a muffler in the stock location. This way it will "look" mostly stock and until they hear me on the gas, they'll never know about the 383 under the hood.

Thanks, luckly I have found out about those guys awhile ago. Great prices and fast shipping. I bit the bullet and have a new 6.75" damper on the way. Thank you for the link anyway.