RedNeckZ

First thing, you should do is stick the rubber gasket out in the sun and let it warm-up for a short time. Start at the top corner and place the rubber over the glass and work the glass edge into the gasket channel. Move left or right and keep placing the gasket onto the glass. It will take some effort, but keep at it, you may have to stretch it some to get over the very last part of it. Once the gasket is on the glass, place it back in the sun and let it sit for a short time to warm-up. Then place the window trim into the channel on front of the gasket. Long strips first and then the real small pieces last. I used two real small flat tip screwdrivers to lift the rubber lip over the trim and fit it under the rubber lip. Be careful here, you can rip the rubber. After that you can use all of the advice above and install the glass into the car. It may be a battle, but well worth it. I can now see out of it now without all of pitting (hard to see anything going into the sun) that was in the old glass. Good Luck, Rich.

Don't know if I am looking at the picture right. But it does look like you need to move that caliber to the other side. The brake bleeder needs to be up postion for proper bleeding. As I see it, it is now in the bottom position and will leave air in the system while bleeding. Also what kind of front brakes do you have? I had to remove the brake bais from the system. It is located on the early 240Z in the area above the rear axle (passenger side), you can remove it and add a adjustable model or (depending on front brakes) just move the line over and reattach it to the line that was left after removing the brake bais part. I have the 300Zx front rotors with the S-12W Toyota calibers and have found the brakes to be great without the adjustable brake bais model added.

You should have the early model (79) brake caliber setup for the 280ZX. If you are using them on a 240Z or 280Z, you should have the later 280ZX model rotors (small hat) but doesn't look like it is? You are missing the retaining pins and clips that hold the brake pads in. Also missing the rattle clips that move the pads away from the rotors. Check out a 280ZX repair book to find out what the parts that are missing and their location in the assemble. Then go to auto parts store and get a parts kit from them with the parts needed in it. I have that setup on my z right now. Do you have the 1/4" flat plate mounting system holding the calibers on? From what I see you have the later (79) (large hat) model rotor. Would love to see what kind of mounting system you have. I am currently working on a three hole mounting plate for my next car. I have a four hole split plate system on my road car right now. May even go to a two hole mounting plate. A lot of old GT-2 Z cars had the two hole mounting system on their cars and it worked for them (one of them even advertised a two hole mounting system on the internet not to long ago). I will be using the 280ZXT rotors and the front 280ZX calibers on the back. Don't know yet what front calibers I will be using. The system you have is considered a bolt on do it yourself system (poor man/cheap man system) (you can get all the parts from the junk yard and do it yourself type). Good Luck with the brakes, Rich.

I came from Colorado and have had the same style flairs on my Z car since 1994. To date I haven't had a problem with them cracking. I did add three sheets of fiberglass over the flair when I installed them. Don't know if that helped. I also installed them with glue and pop rivits. Then I seamed sealed them to the car.

After looking at the picture, if I am looking at it right. You may be able to have the valve areas reworked (i.e. unshrouding the valves) may be all you need to do to repair it. Just look at where the head gasket metal ring is marked on the head. You should be able to grind the area down where the damage is. It looks like you have enough area to do it. Don't know where you are from. But take it to a head shop or machine shop and have them look at it. They should be able to give you a answer to what they can do or not do. You would lose a little CC from the head. But you also may help the flow in or out of the head. They should be able tell you every thing that can be done. Rich.

Yes, the head can be saved. It can be fixed and improved, if you want. Do not get rid of it. First get it cleaned (glass blasted is best). Have them then weld up the area that showed the damage (welding on that metal can be done). They will weld it and machine/clean the weld area. Then have them do a three angle valve job (also it would be a good time to add harden valve seats or replace them, if needed), also get new valve stem oil seals and install them next. The one thing you would want to do, is also port and polish the intake/exhaust ports (costs a lot of money, but is good for higher rpm usage)(is not really needed for the street). How far you go with this, will depend on money and time. Good Luck, Rich.

You could always call Arizona Z. He use to make and sell a complete tube frame for the Z car. He maybe able to give you the info you are looking for. Good Luck, Rich.

My next car will be getting the rotors off of a 300ZXT. I already have the rotors, just looking for some great calibers to go with them. Good Luck, Rich.

The picture, if I am looking at it right is the Nissan 300ZX rotors (first year, four bolt hubs) and the Toyota S-12W caliber (truck model, have to look up the date for you). You can buy most of the parts at the auto parts stores at a much cheaper price. Only thing you will need is the spacer plate that needs to go between the rotors and the hubs. Several stores on the site sells the part. 240Z hubs need .50 or 1/2" thick spacer. The 280Z hubs are different and you will need a .375 thick spacer for it to work. A lot of info on this site about this change over. I have the 300ZX on the front and 280ZX discs on the rear and haven't had any problems with it. Have raced around Stapleton and Second Creek in Colorado with the Z club there. I have also gone around Road Atlanta with them on the car. Just remember they use them on GT-2 cars for a long time. I just think it would be cheaper to get the parts yourself and save some money. The calibers are a simple bolt on option. If you can do machine work, I do have the drawing of the spacer if you can make them. Take care, Rich.

It isn't the easiest job to do. But you can do it. If you haven't installed it yet. Put the new rubber on and install the trim before putting the glass in the car. Use a fine cord (something like 550 cord, that is used in parachute lines)(wrap it twice around the rubber with it setting in the seal area, tuck it in if needed). Lay the glass in the frame area. Slowly pull the cord out from inside the car (it will cause the rubber to go over the frame and seal it to the frame). Take your time and it will come out ok. If needed you can also use a flat tip screw driver to help seat the rubber onto the frame. If you have already installed the glass, set outside and let it warmup. Stick the trim in with the outside being first. Now use two small flat tip screw drivers (pocket size) to lift the inside rubber over the trim to seat it. Real slow on this or you will rip the rubber. Seat the long strips first and then the corner pieces. Use a lot of soapy water to help lube it. It will slowly go together. Just take your time and don't expect it to be easy to do. Having another helper doesn't hurt either. Good Luck, Rich.

:burnout:The carbs you have are not bad for the L24 engine. I have been running it on mine for over 7 years. Before I moved up to a L28 block. you need two items that need to be looked at. First is the cam, is it stock or modifidy? With those carbs, you will need a good 3/4 cam and header to make them run right. Second, you will need to know what size main venturis, you have on the inside of the carbs. If I remember right it right it should be between 30mm to 37mm in size. The smaller in size the better off idle it is. My current setup has the 37mm size in it for more power in the high range. My jet setup for Colorado was as follows: Emulsion Tube - F16 Auxiliary Venturis - 4.5mm Air corrector jets - 200 Idle jets - 45F9 Main jets - 115 Pump jets - 45 Needle valve - 1.75mm My cam at the time was a Sig Erson cam grind number #290AS or #735321 (good racing cam, hard idle on street). My cam is now Schneider Racin cam grind number270-80F (good street cam for the carbs). Remember that Datsun carbs like to run on the rich side. Good Luck, Rich.

Yes, it is one of the best products on the market to day. You can put it directly in the carb thru the fuel line port or thru the gas tank during fillup. I had to use it on my 45mm DCOE webers. They had been sitting for some time while I was working on the Z and had got pretty gummed up by the time I got a round to put them on (it was so bad, you could not pass gas thru the inlets on the carbs). A friend came over and we decided to try it out on them. We put the stuff into the carbs and let them sit for a short while. After that we came back and it started right up and has been running great since. I strongly recommend it for carbs or fuel injection systems. Good Luck, Rich.

Yes, the later model Z's parts will fit up to the 1978 280Z.

The louvers were never a stock part. They were always a add-on by most of the dealerships to increase the price of the cars. Also a lot of people added them after the sale to keep the heat out and from people seeing what they were carrying in the back area. I have four sets of them on the back porch from cars that I have stripped and sent to the car junkyard. There seems to be two different styles out there. The one you have (inside the window) and the other set, it sets on the outside of the rear window frame. Your style came both as locking and nonlocking. Hope that helps, Rich.

If you were here in NC, I could give you a set. I have a few sets in the garage. I would recommend replacing the bearing and races. But I have both the 240Z model and 280Z model hubs w/rotors. If you can not find any closer contact me and we can work something out. Good Luck, Rich.

The one inch bars mostly come from the aftermarket. You were right about the size you gave for stock sizes. I have got a couple of one inch front bars. They go bigger then that, if I remember right you could get them in 1&1/4" size and special order 1&1/2" size for racing. Anything bigger than one inch you had to reinforce the frame to keep it from twisting itself apart. Good Luck, Rich.

Make sure you have a chain holding up the rear of the engine before removing the transmission. I use to lay under the trans and lift up and out with it, then lower it to the ground. It may be hard to pull apart if it is binding. Make sure the trans is in line with the engine block as you pull it out. Good Luck, Rich.

Inclosed are some pictures of the two different styles of louvers used on the 240Z. Just remember that they have come in both metal and plastic models. Four of the pictures are of the set that fit in the frame of the window and is secured by the rubber seal (the top chrome strip is the thing that goes under the rubber at the top of the hatch). The other picture is the other model and is secured by screws (16 total). Good Luck, Rich.

I will try to take some pictures today of both and post them for you. Hope they will help you, Rich.

Yes to all of it. The L28 is a drop in. You may want to use the special limiter pieces that the L28 has on it from its former auto. What I am talking about is the metal parts just above the mounting pads, where the engine bolts to the frame. It keeps the block from moving under loaded conditions. I will try to take some pictures today and post them. The 5-speed transmission is also a drop in. Depending on what year you use, you may have to cut some metal in front of the old hole in the transmission tunnel. The 280Zx 5-speed moves the shifter lever forward a short distant and requires the cutting of the tunnel. The 280Z 5-speed does not require the cutting. About the drive shaft, you can use the four speeds drive shaft, but I have used the 5-speed drive shaft out of the 280Z most of the time. If your needles in the SU's are for the L24, then yes you will need to change them. The exhaust manifolds should change over also. Good Luck, Rich.

No, you don't need to remove the glass. You just slip it between the glass and the rubber. It is a tight fit and it keeps the louvers in place. The top has a large flat plate mounted on it as part of the hinge system. The whole part slides under and allows you to rise the louvers to clean the glass. You have two mounting points with studs on them that go into the lower window corners. This where it secures the frame to the window. The other system that sits outside the window frame is secured by screws. I mounted it with by putting some gasket sealer on it. This helps keep out the water and rust. I have not had any rusting problems with it. Good Luck, Rich.

There are two type of louvers for the Z car. The first set does fit with in the frame of the rear window area (inside the rubber gasket) and can be made of plastic or metal. The second set fits on the outside of the window area (outside of rubber gasket), most that I have seen are made of metal. On the first set, the hinge and mounting bolts (securing bolts), all go on the inside of the window and are secured by the rubber gasket (they slip under the rubber on the window). The second set have screws securing it to the body. You have to drill holes into the body and put screws into it to secure it. I have both sets sitting at home and have a copy of the second set on the Z at this time. I would have used the first setup but have lost one of the securing bolts needed to secure it to the car. They help keep the heat out of the car and help hide stuff you don't want anyone to see in the back of your Z. Hope that helps, Rich.

I have 45mm DCOE's and a Electromotive custom air cleaner. You can go with both the slip in and bolt on stacks. I have bolt on stacks with the custom air cleaner now. But have the insert stacks in the garage to be used with the three individual air cleaners. Good Luck, Rich.

If you need a set of 240Z or 280Z hubs and can pick-up, I have them for you. Have two complete front ends (240Z) on the back deck and several sets of 280Z hubs in the garage. Just let me know if you are interested. Will trade for engine parts. Take care, Rich. I am in Fayetteville,NC.

We do need to get some more info from you. Does it do this while stopped? Or does it happen when it is running? Have you looked at any of the sites to learn how to adjust the floats? The fuel pressure for your webers should be less then 3 pounds for street driven cars. I have gone as low as 2 pounds for 45 DCOEs. When was the last time they where rebuilt? Anything you can tell us will help. Good Luck, Rich.