RedNeckZ

Yes, it may be the float. But first check the fuel pressure to the carbs. It may need to be no more then 3 pounds of pressure to the carbs for street use. If that checks out, then check the float level as per the guides you can find on the internet (you will most likely have to take the top plate on the carb off of the carb to adjust it). For me and my 45 DCOEs it was the float level that was causing it to leak. Once I fixed that it was good to go.

I have to ask "What year Z did you get it out of?" Door glass for the 260 (big bumper)/280Z has a different frame on it and will not work as is in the early 240Z. You have to change the frames to make it work. Other then that the above answers were pretty good about putting it back together. I remove the sliding rail in the front (it is were the frame rides/guides it self up and down in the rail system). After I get the rest of the system in line. I put the rail back in and bolt it down. Good Luck with it.

It sounds like you may have a crack in the radiator. You may also have a head gasket problem. From the way you put it, it sounds like that is the problem. Pressure buildup from the head gasket leaking is allowing hot gas pressure to escape into the cooling system and allowing it to put a lot of pressure on the radiator. Which has caused the radiator to split near the top. Could it be near a seam? We need some pictures of it in action to tell you more. Good Luck, you may have to replace the head gasket and the radiator (may be able to repair this problem at the radiator repair shop).

Buy both and use one as a parts car for the other. I have stripped eight cars and have them sitting around the house (my wife hates me for that part). But have used a lot of parts on both of the cars I have now. I am painting one car this coming weekend at school (see bad paint day). I am a trained auto tech and have gone thru two complete auto body courses. Most of time I did it just for painting the Z car. Good Luck with the decision you are making. It may be the best thing you can do or it will drive you crazy. The cars have been known to be great rust traps. But I love to drive them and work on them. Take care, Rich.

I have the same type cam in my Z right now. It is a great cam for a daily driven Z with triple carbs on it. I put on the springs and retainers. Good Luck with what ever choice you make. Always look at the way you plan on driving it and then make your choice to fit your driving habits.

I have the early 280ZX rear brake conversion on my Z at this time. Put them on in 1995 and haven't had a problem with them to this date. I started in front with the S-12 Calibers and then went to the S-12W w/300ZX rotors. Used to race at Stapleton and Second Creek in Denver, CO. I had a problem of boiling brake fluid at both tracks. After changing to disc brakes which I put on. I got better braking and cooler running brakes. The boiling brake fluid was not a problem any more. The 300ZX setup uses a flat plate mounting system. Several have been shown on this site. It fits under my 15" wheels and under the 16" wheels we have on it now. I have changed pads at least twice since putting them on. I have not tried the 240SX setup and can not tell you any thing about it. It has been used by a lot of members on this site. So go with what you want. The only thing I did different was in taking out the rear brake bias valve. I took it out and moved the line over and reconnected it. Did not use a adjustable system in the line. I like the way it works as is. Good Luck with your choice, Rich.

The wheels are 16x7 (only payed $100 for them) and the tire size is 225/50/16. The sun/moon roof was a add on (rollbar also added). We cut it and installed it. I had seven of them sitting around here from cars that I have taken a part. After the Meeting in Vegas in 2000. I found out that they are not a bad thing to have for getting the heat out of the car. We are putting it back in the paint booth this Thursday. It will be done on Saturday. Hope to have everything back on it by Monday.

Just some more pictures from outside the house. I am still trying to download the ones in the telephone camera that we took in the paint booth. We are putting the glass back in it this weekend. We have chrome bumpers to put back on and a shade shield (louvers) for the rear window. Also have the covers for the headlights and assorted chrome pieces. New wheels have been ordered, but still haven't decided on what kind of tires we will be using.

The gun I was using was from Sears (model craftsman 9.15531 top loader)and is not one of the more expensive models. I have more pictures. But have to down load them to my big lap top and tranfer them to CD then transfer them to this computer. Will try to get them on later tonight or tomorrow. The design was one my wife came up with. She did pretty good with it. My second Z is going to be a little more radical (ie. big flairs, whale tail and alot of fiberglass and V8) but will have the same paint idea except in orange and black. I also have a Dodge Dakota that will be painted same as above. It will be part of the race car /car hauler package. In the next paint job we are going to add real small metal flake into the first coat of clear. We will then add two or three more coats of clear to the car.

We started painting the car this past Friday. It started with the Sealing Coat and the Gun Metal for the stripe. We then let the car sit over night before placing the stripe on it. After that we did the Black on the back section of the car. It sat for 2 1/2 hours before we moved the plastic to cover the rear of the car. Then we applied the Red paint on the front of the car. After the first coat was put down and we started mixing the material for the second coat did the teacher find out that the paint job had to done over again. We had asked for base coat/clear coat mixed paint. What we were given was single coat paint. Lucky for us the company that mixed the paint honored itself and gave us all new paint. We have to wait another week before we can sand on it and start the repaint of the car. This was my first paint job so be gentle.

The 5-speed should bolt right in. Only problem that I know about is the collar for the shift fork. They have a couple of different sizes that will fit in it. They have to do with the use of the collar and different type pressure plates that have been made for it. The 280ZX had a smaller collar in it and is used in the five speed when it is used with a centerforce clutch system (I have it in my Z right now). Other then that it should just be a simple push together and then bolt it. The splines and clutch are the same and does not have to be changed. It was a very simple improvement for my Z. Good Luck, For your info, the 5-speed out of the 280ZX is the prefered one to get. The only problem with it is the shifter is moved forward in its hole and it has to be trimmed to fit

I am getting ready to remove and replace the side marking lights on my latest project. But I am going to use a old trick I learned about in the Auto Body repair course at Aims Community College in Greely, CO. Got the idea from a Street Rodder instructor. First you need to buy the smallest marker light they sell for street rodders. You can get them off the internet. I got to go home to get the info, at school right now. Then you weld a plate over the old openings, after that you have to drill the hole for the light in the plate. It should tell you what size hole or bit size you will need in the instructions. After that you will put the light into the hole and it tighten down. The top of the light will extend out of the body a very short distance. You then cover the light with either fiberglass or bondo. After it hardens you then sand it down until you reach the light top. Make sure you do not grind that far into the lense. Sand evrything down smooth and tape over the light. You then paint the area around the light with color paint to match the paint on the car. Then you remove the tape and use clear coat to cover everything to include the light. It will make you car stand out in a crowd. It also comes in different colors. Will try to post some pictures as they get done. Good Luck, Rich.

The rear swaybar comes in both front and rear mounts. I have both on two of my Z's right now. The front mount is what I have seen the most of out there amoung other Z's. I think it will all depend on where you go to buy it.

You can use Fusor 800EZ to seal and then use a brush on sealer for extra protection.

If you are near Fayetteville. I have a complete set in my back yard you can have. Just let me if you want them. Take care, Rich.

:burnout:The longer springs always go in the rear.

The head may have cracks between the valves. I have had it happen between 3 sets of valves. Had to take it to a head shop and have them weld it back up. It only showed up after the head warmed up. It would drain the radiator of all of the water over a period of time. If you take it to someplace that welds. Make sure they can weld aluiminun. You will have to have the valve seats replaced also. Then have a three angle valve job done. With the new way of welding around us, we do not have to get rid of the heads any more. From what they say, they can fix almost everything on our heads now. Besides the common port and polish job, they can also weld the bowl area and reshape it. So take it to someplace like a head speciality shop and have them check for cracks in between the valves. Good Luck, Rich.

Don't get rid of the E-31 Head. You would be amazed at what they can fix on it now. I had three cracks in three different areas on the head and took it to place in Ft. Collins, CO (Custum Head Shop) and had it repaired. You can go to things like bigger valves in it and even have the whole area re-welded. They can repair almost any damage done to it. Put most of the parts into hind. Put it on E-bay and sell it to someone who needs it.

Just got done putting mine on. We used a mixture of screws and glue to mount it to the body. We used screws to get it all setup and in the proper location. After that we used fusion glue to bond it to the body and added the screws (both top and bottom of spoiler), to hold it in place. After that we start with long strand fiberglass to fill in the lip of the spoiler. Next we used the short strand fiberglass and finished with bondo. I think it came out real nice. Good luck with it, Rich. Can post pictures if needed.

From what I can see. You will need some spacers for it to fit. But I don't know everything about your Z. If you have coil-overs and camber plates, it will change some. I have 16" by 7" rims on my Z now with the same back spacing. I have a 1" spacer on mine. Only have lowering springs on it.

Yes, it is an easy swap to do. You have to remove all of the 280Z parts to include the shocks. Remove the old bumper first and then reach up into the area where the shocks mount into the 280Z and remove all three bolt (on each side) to remove them (you may need to lower the gas tank on one side a small distance to be able to reach the bolts). Then take the shocks out and get rid of them. The next problem you have to decide on is if you want to make special mount brackets or use the 240Z brackets. I used the 240Z brackets. I welded (MIG) the brackets to the body. I first used jack stands to hold the bumper in place while I marked the location of the mounts and for the hole in the fender for the mounting point at the other end of the bumper. I then weld the brackets in place and drilled the required holes in the body. Always measure twice before doing any work. I then mounted the new bumper to the mounts and secured it down. One thing I did was add some rubber strips or small rubber blocks to the end caps, where it mounts thru the bolt holes (needed to keep the rain or water out). It went together quick and easy. The hardest part of the whole swap was getting the shock bolts out. It made the car look a whole lot better. Had it done and complete in a few hours. I also stripped off the chrome and painted the bumper to match the car. If I can find the pictures of it, I will try to post a few.

Made a mistake, it is not the Traid club, but the traingle Z car club. It is listed there.

Take this with a grain of salt. The car can be fixed. It is only going to cost you time and a lot of money. I don't know your stadus in life. So I will give it as straight as I can. From what I can see in the pictures you can fix most of the problems. Even the front fiberglass spook can be fixed. But it can be expensive if you don't know what you are getting into. It may take up to four years to just get it started. Only you can find out how bad it really is. If it has a lot of rust, you may want to look into the local college for schooling in auto body repair and do most of it while going to school. If you are just looking for sharp car that runs. Keep looking around. I found a 1977 280Z for sale in Lumberton, NC for only $1100.00. It has a hit in the right rear fender near the rear brake lights and needs a paint job. But it has a lot of speed equipment on it already. It was a great deal, only my wife would not let me get it. Claimed I had to many already at the house (two complete cars and parts for eight more around the area). If you are interested in something like this. Go to the Triad Z car club site and look in the classified section it is listed there. I don't think he has sold it yet. You will get a great car and a lot of parts (ie doors, misc equipment for it and a spare engine). It has a fuel cell and racing seats. Engine runs strong. Has lowering springs and struts. You have to see it. I fell for it right a way. I have fixed a few now and can say that it can get under your skin. Hope you can find one for you to try.

Contact the Better Business Office in thier town. Also contact the shipper of the part. Inform them about the part and what condiition it is in. The BBO should contact the company for you and find out why they are moving so slow (it will go on their record as a problem against them) . You have so much time after shipment for return of product. Keep a record of all you have done to this point to include all phone calls and mail. Also contact your credit card company (inform them about the problem)and place a hold on payment until some thing is done. Good Luck, Rich.

The E-31 Head is a first gen. 240Z head. It came on the first couple of years of Z's and was used on the 2400 cc motor. It is a great head to have if you are planning to race the Z. Ra-Jay is the brand of turbo. Doesn't mean it came from a motorcycle. Still fun to drive. The cost of the car will depend on rust, body damage and wear of engine (how many miles on it). I have the same setup in my 240Z. It is a Colorado car and does not have much rust in it and it worth at least, $7000 to $8000. Best to take it somewhere and have it appraised by a professional or see the local Z club for help. Find someone in your area to give you an honest answer. Good Luck, Rich.