mark

Thanks for the education Jon. I thought it had something to do with the head lights. I'm old.

Help me, I'm old so be nice, what is hella flush?

I've done business with this guy. He is in Thialand but don't let that scare you. These wheels are 250 to 300 here and his with shipping are about 100. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OMP-Corsica-Steering-wheel-350-suede-rally-race-new-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3ca7c5b748QQitemZ260512790344QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Suede is the way to go. Looks like your wife has it all figured out . Leather is slick on a wheel. Suede will absorbe mositure and at least I have a better feel of the car with a suede wheel. If you are using driving gloves, suede will give you better grip on the wheel over a leather wheel.

Where exactly is the valve you removed and how did you remove it?

Nice looking ride. Any details on the dash? Who did it and what is it done with?

Thanks Tom. This was born from lazyness. I don't want to be working on the car at the track. I want to drive it.

While the car was apart for a few maintence items, I decided to make the front adjustable inserts adjustable without taking the car apart. I'm running arizona Z's big body inserts on the car. The rears are easy to adjust. The fronts require unbolting the two bolts that hold the steering knuckle to the spindle to get to the adjuster. I used a wilwood brake bias adjuster modified to accept a set screw and a dab of JB weld. I think this will work well. For those worried about where the hole is drilled, it's surivived 2 years of track days so far. I initially tired rubber hose with a hose clamp to hold to on the adjuster nut. This worked loose after a few adjustments. Pics

Keep the webers. Nothing sounds like triple webbers sucking air at full throttle. I've got an LS1 Z now but I still miss the sound of the triples! I used to daily drive my Z with the webers. Once they are set up correctly they gave me no problems for the 5 or 6 years I daily drove the car. Good luck with your project.

Tom, Thanks for the pics. A very nice car. I know Bain is proud and he should be. Any idea on what wheel are on the car?

Tom, Glad to hear you have found the problem. Keep us updated with a report from VIR.

Too bad one of those was not around at the wind tunnel test day.

Thanks for the info guys.

Who makes those?

How long have you been running the new halfshaft with the 930 P car cv's? Did this start after the new halfshafts?

The hat you have specified is not a floating hat. The rotor mounts solid to that hat. A 2 inch offset on my set up would require moving the caliper .25 inches toward the outside of the car. That reduces the bracket thickness to only .12 inches. That would not work. I reduced the thickness of the bracket to .25 inches and everything lines up on my setup. How close does a 2 inch offset get you? You hubs may be a different offset. If you can use that hat and your hubs and get a 13 inch set up to bolt on, go for it. I went with the floating setup because this is a track only car and it eats rotors for lunch. I had contacted Dave a while back about making some brackets in steel and he was not interested at that time. The hot ticket on this setup would be to get Dave involved. It would require a run of hubs that were 1) Offset .12 inches toward the inside of the car 2) Had a .25 inch thick shoulder to center the brake hat 3) had the holes drilled and tapped to accept the locating screws around the perimeter to hold the hat to the hub. All that would be needed then would be to drill a new lub pattern in the willwood hat. I'd bet Dave could have that done also. It would be a nice option in my opnion.

The AP set up was going to cut into the kids college fund. This one ain't cheap but the kids can still go to school.

There made of flubber.

I would love to be there and I could have probably gotten the car together 10 years ago but I don't move as fast as I used to.

That hat is as close as it gets unless you have a custom hat made. I always need more brake especially at CMP. I'm hoping a floating assembly will get rid of the pulsations that come with a few hot laps at CMP on rotors that have only a couple of track days on them. I think the way this works is that a floating setup allows uniform expansion of the rotor since it is not bound to the hat, reducing pulsation, rotor wear and cracking.

Looking for comments. This is just a mock up caliper, I know the bleed screws are down. This uses a wilwood hat pn 170-6583 with a new lug pattern drilled in the hat. Wilwood rotor 13.06 x 1.25 GT 48 curved vane rotor Hardware is from wilwood Caliper brackets are custom made from .25 inch thick chrome moly steel I have Arizona Z's aluminum hubs. With a few tweeks of the hub by Dave, his stock brackets could be used so the only machining needed would be drill the new lug pattern in the hat.