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mark

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Everything posted by mark

  1. mark
    Take the end cap off the outboard CV and see if it will go together. If it fits you can run it without the end caps. Use some RTV to seal the CV to the adaptor. BTW, pics might be of use here.
  2. mark
    What kind of belt tensioner do you run?
  3. mark
    A good link for all fastener torque specs. http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?category=1
  4. mark
    Man that sucks!
  5. mark
    Phil, I love the color! Nice job and congrats.
  6. mark
    I've got the oil pan you need. Let me know when you are ready.
  7. mark
    Nice find Mike, at that price, it will be disposable. Wad it up and buy another.
  8. mark
    I use teflon tape wrapped around the bar at the bushings. It seems to work well. I found out this worked when I actually read the directions that came with my suspension techniques bushings. I'm enjoying the updates on your project.
  9. mark
    Austin, If you if you decide to make a few of these, I'll be first in line. I was thinking the same thing as I was shimming my last set of rotors.
  10. mark
    The rotors are mounted correctly.
  11. mark
    Hey Bart, Congrats. Isn't paint nice? Enjoy.
  12. mark
    I'll look forward to the first drive report. I bet it leaves a smile on your face.
  13. mark
    Six of those. Fiberglass is about .50 thick along what is left of an old air dam. Aluminum dam is 3.5 inches above the track. The first two were about 2 inches off the track. They saw 150 at VIR but protested when asked to grade sand at CMP.
  14. mark

    DSC000371

    mark posted a gallery image in Members Albums

    DSC000371
  15. mark
    Air dam is 040 aluminum and lots of rivets. Thats version 3.0, the track ate the other 2. It is removable. Just duze fasteners holding it on. The removable wheel is all ebay stuff. Sorry I don't have any specifics for you on that. I bought stuff and made it work. Nick Short built the cage. http://competitionraceparts.com/
  16. mark
    Depends on the ride height.
  17. mark
    17 x 10 front and 17x12 rear. I used the offset that CCW reccomended. Ask for the info for Mark Icard's wheels when you call. I don't remember the offset.
  18. mark
    John, We discussed that before the cage was done and since it's just a track toy and will not see real racing, that is the design we setteled on. I know it's a compromise but such is life. The doors are gutted for weight loss. I will not run rear quarter windows. I call the color obnoxious orange. The painter bought several pints of different orange and that was the one I wanted.
  19. mark
    I've never seen one break there. Good job!
  20. mark
    Ill bet its the injectors. Swap a couple around and see if thoses cyclinders fire. It'll be OK to run on 6. I ran my lt-1 on 6 for a whole weekend at Roebling Road. No fun but no harm done.
  21. mark
    To fill in the holes with out welding a patch in there, I would use fiberglass matt to cover and then blend with filler.
  22. mark
    Thanks guys. It's built to my specs. I'm 6'4" and I fit well in the car. The guy that built the cage builds cages for high dollar porsche race cars so I'm not real worried about it holding up should the car end up in a wall or on it's top. The seat is so far back to accomadate me that the bar had to run that way to protect my hips. I may have a few more pics of the car at home but not at work. I'll look around a post a couple more later.
  23. mark
    A few shots of it put together. It's about 99% done. DSCN0257
  24. mark

    DSCN0257

    mark posted a gallery image in Members Albums

    DSCN0257
  25. mark

    DSCN02631

    mark posted a gallery image in Members Albums

    DSCN02631
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