mark

I tried to post the drawing from emachine but it is in a format that this web site will not support.

What size are those wheels and how much is that lowered. No way I can answer with out knowing some more details. In general, coil overs with sectioned struts will get you lower, but I'm not sure it will get you that low. Eliminating the stock top sping perchrubber isolater and replacing with camber plates will get you down a little more.

I'll post a drawing later, I tried Emachine.com but they were going to be almost 200 bucks so I did them and I still ahve the drawing I did on emachine. John, the body work is done and I'm running a wrx rack. It is a power rack. Thanks for the compliments guys. Any suggestions on these would be appreciated.

I had the JCI kit and all was installed and looked good. Motor ran and I was gettting close but the JCI kit was not going to work with the dry sump system I have. So this weekend I tore it all out and started over. I'll use some biscuit type mounts from street and performancce to finish it all off. This is the cross member. It will be bolted down after the final position (front to back) of the engine is determined. Yes, I will redo the brake lines. Here are the engine mount plates. Borrowed my brother in law's plasma cutter for these. Finally, on the engine drivers side and almost finished passengers mount. Still need to clean them up and paint. I'm using JTR headers and this all fits even with the dry sump and WRX rack.

That will be one wicked Z

How much is a hair. If you are talking a milimeter or so on the corners and not over the piston bore, I'm sure it would be fine. I would be a little hesitant to grind directly over the piston bore.

Check the #3 plug wire

I got the service active handeling light when I replaced the brake pads and bled the brakes. It went away the next time the car was started.

My buddy just spent 8 grand on the suspension of his M3. Remote resovior stuff. I forget the name. Take John's advice. I could buy a nice Z for what he has in his shocks.

Now get it to the track and see if it really runs!!

I've got 245 40 17 on the rear. Lt-1 with heads and cam. These are Kohomos for the track only. I can light them up in first or second. Just accept it, your tires are doomed. Edit... All under the stock arches with coil overs

Geart ingo John. How about moving this to Petes FAQ page?

pic, link??

I'm with JT on the Diff. Check the out put flanges for excess play. I bet you find alot of movement there.

I'm in NC so it would be quite a drive. I'm watching that deal closel;y and I'll be up for a set or two if that ever pans out. I'm sure I'll be cracking some fiberglass once I'm out on the track. Mark

So.... How much do you want for it and will you put it on a truck to NC?

Now I've got to get this car finished. Man, talk about motivation. LMAO

John, If you start these anytime soon, I'll take one. Let me know.

Sparks, Sent you a PM

If the car runs properly at speed and under a load then I would bet you have a gauge problem. I ran a very similar set up on my 240 auto X car. Do you have a spare gauge?