mark

You have had good advice from the above posters. I won't be so nice. This is how it is. If you don't have a 4 year degree, you need to know how to do something. You don't know how to do anything to support yourself. If you want to be really miserable, get a dead end job without a degree. School will seem great compared to that. I was in your situation may years ago. I came very close to dropping out and working in a Textile mill. We all know how well textiles are doing. Suck it up, quit whining and be a man. Finish school, get a 4 year degree in anything. It will open other opportinuties for you. Life is just jumping thru hoops. Jump thru this one and move on. 2 years is nothing. You should be able to do 2 years on your head. If I sound like your father, It's because he is right.

I've done the Q 45 diff. I use the car as a track car/weekend crusier. I'm buliding a dedicated track car. It will have an R200 clutch type lsd and CV half shafts. I'm running an ls1 and t56 in the new car. I'm sure the r200 will hold for road course duty on wide (315's) sticky rubber. They Q diff has worked well but the time, money and effort to install it are not worth it for me on this new car. If this was a drag car, I would use the R-230, Rosses adaptors and the BIG CV axels and build a cradle for the diff as others here have. These observations come from 15 plus years on the track in various Z's with anything from an open R-180 to a NISMO r-200 lsd to the Q viscous lsd. In the end, it won't matter too much what you choose because it will never be done.

and I thought deer were bad

2003z is right. I just bought some fittings for my Z 10mmx1.0.

We're sorry. We did not find a listing for the phone number you entered. The phone number "(317) 863-1072" is a Fishers, IN based phone number and the registered carrier is Us Xchange Of Indiana Llc Dba Choice One Comm In. However, due to number portability, some numbers have been transferred to a new service provider other than the registered carrier. I got this off a reverse number look up http://www.whitepages.com/10340/reverse_phone

Maybe it's the all white version (88? ) that I'm thinking of. Somethig different about that diff. If I don't write it down these days...........

The output shafts on that type of diff are specific to that type of diff. If the buyer does not have them, he is screwed

I'm in, one large and one small.

I've ran a 225 on my 17x9's by so I know it will fit on the 8.5 wheels. It will be streched a bit.

Want to bet? I know a guy who is working on an ls1 in a s2000 right now. Works at the local honda dealership.

Group buy?

Any thoughts on going thru the fender well and pulling air in thru a head light opening? I'm at the same point with my track car. Looking to do something a little different.

PM me if you need a VIN number ran of car fax. I just bought a 30 day unlimited deal.

Tim, What a great looking car.

My current opti spark is about 6 months old so I'm getting close to the useful life of the part. If it lasts, and you can get it wet, I'll buy one but I won't be the first. Looks like it will be a nice part. Stock opti is 300 so it is not that much of a strech to buy billet part.

A few people were interested in my mounts. Cruez converted the file so I could post it here. Thanks Cruez! One note, the overall length is short on this drawing. Add about 2 inches for a total length of 16.5 inches. All the length is added on the 2.5 inch wide section. These mounts will work with the JTR headers that have been made to work with John’s Cars kit. I don’t know for sure but I believe the stock compressor mounting point can be maintained with these mounts. My dry sump pump mounts in the AC spot and it clears nicely. These mounts will require a cross member to be made that hangs between the frame rails. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4017&cat=500&page=3. not complete in this picture but you get the idea. I made mine so the bottom of my engine cross member is even with the bottom of the stock cross member. If I was doing this a second time, it would be a lot easier. I’ll try to make your first time easier than mine. I cut the metal (3/16 inch thick steel) using a plasma cutter but these could easily be cut using an angel grinder and a cut off wheel. Mounting holes were drilled to .5 inch diameter. I laid a stock motor mount in place to use as a template. This flat hockey stick shaped piece then can be bent to form the mounts. The first bend is 4.25 inches from the top (the big end). To bend this piece, I made a cut on the back side to about ½ to 2/3's of the way thru the metal. Bent it to about 135 degrees and then bolted it to the block. Refine angle as necessary to clear block. There are a couple of bosses that can be cut off the block to help with clearance. They will be obvious. When you have the angle correct, weld in the back of your bend. There will be a nice V that can be filled in easily. First bend down. The second bend will be harder to measure. The angle is easy but the point to bend needs some consideration. The first thing to consider is what kind of motor mounts will you be using? I used biscuit mounts from street and performance. http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ About 30 bucks I think. The second consideration is your cross member height. My set up is using a dry sump so the oil pan is very shallow. I’ll give some measurements as a guide to help you get it close. If your mounts end up a little short you can shim. If they are to long, you start over. My cross member is made of 1 x 2 .120 wall tubing. The bottom of the engine X member is even with the stock x member. If you use the S&P biscuits they are 1.5 inches thick. If the second bend is made at 10.75 inches from the top of the mount (big end) that will put your stock oil pan just above the new X member. Those measurements are taking in to consideration that the new X member is 3.5 inches behind the rear edge stock X member measured at the center of the stock X member. (From the rear of the little skid plate) Make the cut as above, bend, attach the mounts to the motor and refine the angle. It will end up at about 90 degrees. Fill in the back side V with your welder. Now you have the hard part done. Make a gusset to brace it all together. Passenger side mount has to be notched as shown to clear header. On the driver’s side, I’m using a STI steering rack so my steering shaft cleared these mounts. The stock rack will require either the gusset to be notched or a hole in the gusset for the steering rod to pass thru. You are on you own there. Usual disclaimer section. I don’t know if this will work. I think it will and one day I’ll have the car on the track and find out. Comments and criticism is welcome. Mark

If you need a new master, I've got a new rebuilt one from NAPA that was just taken off my car. About 3 months old. Killer deal for you for the help you have given me. PM me if you are interested.

I would also like to hear why you dropped the electric water pump.

Unreal, Man that must be fun. Great numbers.

Check out Betamotorsports site. They sell the lexan and the fiber or carbon fiber hatch. Also have a comparison of weights.

The Monguuz goes east!

That's the best money I've spent on him yet.

Glad the kid will be OK. Just sent my 16 year lod kid to this. http://xtrememeasures.org/index2.cfm?CFID=140925&CFTOKEN=18110519 Well worth the cash but it would not have helped your son's friend because I doubt they had the funds to do it. I do agree that drivers ed leaves EVERYTHING to be desired. 2 hours on the road and you can get your permit here in NC. Look out.

Don't buy a new one, it will crack also. Have yours recovered by a place called dashes.com I think is the link. They use vacume forming equipment to cover your dash with modern UV resistant materials that will last much longer than the original nissan dash. Just my opnion but I would either do that or get a fiberglass dash from PDK fabrication.