mark

John, I'm probably the unenlightened one but I share what I have learned. Accusump holds from 1 to 3 quarts depending on the model you choose. They can be set up so when the ignition swich turns on the system is pressureised (sp?) When the engine is started the accusump is refilled. If pressure drops below a set level the electric valve will open and add oil pressure. Once the engine regains oil to pump and pressure retuns to normal, the accusump is filled again. My concern is I don't want to bet an ls1 rebuild that 3 quarts will always be enough oil to satisfy pressure requirements of the engine running the way we drive at the track. More than likely It would be adaquate however, while I'm at it and since this is a track only car, why not be sure. Was that what you were talking about or was it the 90 minute track sessions?

93 bucks, consider it a cheap lesson learned. No cash no parts unless I know you from this board. I've sent a couple of guys here parts and always get paid. I've been trusting in other situations and got burned. Live and learn and move on. Mark

after hours on the net, I think I'm sold on the dry sump system. 3 gallons of oil sounds like it might be enough to suite my needs. I'm just worried that with 45 minutes plus of hard track use an accusump might not be enough. A couple of the sessions at Roebling were 90 minutes. I would only run 30 minutes at a time because of fuel but I was also concerned about sloshing oil away from the pickup. Looks like my concerns were valid. This will not happen again. Mark

I always end up making my own but I would be interested in hearing how the premade lines fit. Let us know if you go this route. Also, if you decide to try again on making your own, get a good double flair tool (it will cost a little more) and practice, practice. Good luck, Mark

Space saver spare and a spacer.

I spent several hours looking at dry sump systems for the ls-1. Looks doable, soem nice parts out there but it would mean reworking the passengers side mount on the John's car set up I have. Oh well I had to redo the drivers side for the WRX rack that is in the car. Might as well do the other side also. John, thanks for the sympathy, you go fast you pay. Mike, I had just put it back together after rings and bearings. Had several hundred road miles on it and a couple of track events, it was running so good. It will be a parts car for a while now.

Motor and radiator are in, tranny is mounted. Suspension and brakes are done, rear flairs are bonded on the car, fuel cell is done. Motor runs, I used ls-1 edit. This weekend just motovated me to get back on it. Acusump will be ordered tommorow. MArk

Well at least Saturday was fun. Lost the engine Sunday morning. Turn 3 is a long left hand sweeper. Lost oil pressure and came home with a NICE rod knock. Car is covered and I'll not touch it for a long time. On to the next project. LS-1 Z with WIDE flairs and a G nose. It will be a track car with a rattle can paint job and an accusump. Expensive lession learned. The hotel was increadable and the wives had a great time. (I just have one wife, went with another couple) There was one other Z there, an ITS 240. Nice guy, but aren't all guys that wrench on Z's? John, good luck getting the monster back together. Mike, fix it before it breaks, cheaper that way. Jeff, Chin group was great. Turn 9 does have a nice pucker factor Mark No running Z's and several piles of parts.

I'm going to be there this weekend with Chin motor sports. If anyone else is down that way stop by and say hello. I'll be the only 240 Z there I'll bet. Mark

Yes, 73 240z with front mount suspension techniques bar and adjustable end links from top end performance. Mark

Now that is a hybrid. John, what are you doing on the ls-1 board? Got a new project going?

Great video. Thanks for posting it

welcome and search. If you can think of it, it has been asked. I searched the drive train forun and found this in about 1o seconds. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=81941&highlight=manual+auto+swap+conversion Mark

I try to buy my stuff else where because of past issues. Yes they bent me over and since I'm on the other coast, there was nothing I could do. I'm sorry if that pisses any one off but that has been my experience. Having said that, the last time I ordered from them, the staff was very helpful and knew there stuff. Even called me back and told me I needed another part to complete the job I was doing and added it to my order. ( only a few bucks ). I think they offer parts many others don't carry and I would like to have consistant service like I had during my last purchase but I know from MY past experience it is hit or miss. Mark

so the fusible link wire is just twisted on the male part, but seems to be fine. My money is on this connection. Soldier this and check it again. Mark

I love it John. Mike keep it up. Mark

Mike, That sucks. Been there, I'm still there as the matter of fact. Mark

Hey Mike, Nice to see some one is making some progress. I need some motivation. Post more pics! Mark

Are you talking about the flats on the rocker shafts for the nuts to seat against being up? I'm 99% sure that wasn't the problem, the way the comp's are machined the nut sets a lot higher if the shaft's reversed and it's real easy to see. Yes that is what I'm talking about. Easy to see with the readers!

John, Sorry to hear about your engine. At least you caught it before it blew apart. I thought you must be having problems when i could keep up with you down the front straight at CMP. Are you sure they were installed correctly? When I put mine back together I had a couple of rockers put on with the seat side up instead of down. I finally had to get the readers so I could see to put it together. Getting old sucks. Mark

I would use -6 braided SS line. Easier to route and place. Don't have to worry about it like I would aluminum line. I have seen aluminum line used and it will work fine if installed correctly but that requires that it can't move any. _6 line will be plenty big for your application. Mark

You don't have to use the trim. It can be put in after the glass is in place. It requires lots of soapy water and a hot day helps. Mark

I've never used any sealant on the glass or weather strip. To install the glass, you need to put the seal on the glass and then install the seal and glass to the body as one piece. Use a small rope or cord in the groove of the seal and pull the rope inside the car. This will pull the lip of the seal into place with the glass still in the seal. It will require lots of soapy water and practice to get it right. Good luck.