Drftn280zxt

Thanks for the replies, I actually posted this incorrectly but still got good information out of it . It was supposed to be -Engine Bay Powdercoating- that probably beneficial to huh. Only I guess you better make sure that every bolt/screw hole has a bolt/screw in it. That way you have to redrill an tap new holes . Am I right? I'm thinking a blue (or silver or black) powdercoated engine bay with a nice silver/blue/chrome/black engine would look sweet. What your opinion on this? Not to be a copycat, but I think that a powdercoated blue engine,polished valve cover,custom chromed intake manifold, blue powdercoated pulleys,blue silicon hoses, braided stainless lines, stainless steel I/C piping with blue connecting hoses, silver turbos (duh there always silver stock), and aluminum head (P90a), alum radiator, and alum I/C would look sweet. Makes me drool just thinking about it. What do you think?

Where did everyone go? Oh I made a mistake on the redline it would probably be closer to 7k or so.

750 a wheel is kinda steep, but I would pay that much for my custom design if I had the money to do my whole project, otherwise it wouldn't be worth it. I have plans for 17" x12's rear and 17x10 up front with 4" backspacing all around (= some negative offset). I am going to have to remember that name in the future. The style is most similar to the Konig Next (well the lip and number of spokes will the same) with a 4.5" lip in back and 2.5" lip up front). Of course the tires won't be cheap either with ~(305-315)-30-17's and ~(275-295)-(35-40)-17's on those rims. Patience is a virtue. C'mon sweepstakes and lottery (I need like 60k for my project I think (very wild estimate probably more like ~25k) but you never know) . How to they develop their wheels? Forged? Rolled? CNC?

Is it beneficial?scratch resistant? I know is good for heat resistance and ot looks perty. Or is special paint better?

Ah Crap ! Now a new engine will definitely be necessary for my goals. I have an L28E also(1979 2+2 ZX). I wasn't aware they had extremely different components, so now I'm eventually going to have to track down a P90a head and an L28ET (as well as all the other neccessary goodies that are different). What the diff between an L28ET and an ZXT L28? Sorry to get off subject. 200hp shouldn't be hard. Think about it stock=135HP. Intake, Exhuast, injectors (fuel rail), TB ,outta do it I'd think. Ten percent incresae from exhuast ~13.5hp =170.5hp. Ten percent increase from intake ~17.05hp = total 187.55hp. Thats a really free flowing exhuast 2.5" mandrel bent if done right, same goes for intake approx 2.5"pipe to a conical filter (K&N) down into the wind . Those increases is what exhuast companies claim (approx 10-15% increase in hp) my 0.02

Sweet ! That is awesome not to mention makes very good sense(I think :| ). Thinking about it, a turbocharger causes the car to run lean, so I can see how the supplementary injectors could make the balance more equal. Does this make the car more prone to detonation or less prone ? If the answer is less prone I'll have to consider this option in my engine concept. Keep up the nice work, I can't wait to see the numbers that engine creates.

NO kidding, hp out of an L28ET =deep pockets. Hopefull after college and a few years int oa career my pockets will be deep enough for my L28ET dream. (as long as girls stay out of the pic all should be good, done pretty good so far. (no girlfriends, and I'm 18 almost 19)).

I'm 6'5" and my head touches the roof. IF I wore a helmet I have not cluw how I would fit. I'm eventually going to need raing seats that will sit be down lower. I have 280ZX 2+2 so I get a little more head room than I would in a 2 seater but not much. That black chop top is awesome and very unique. You know waht would be funny (as long as the owner was like 5'2" or something and chopped 240Z and sectioned also. That would look smaller than a miata .

If I'm not mistaken you need projectors for HIDS for them to be Legal. Or you can just be sneaky .

3" it is for street(maybe four )(and lower for track ). Add a small camera into the front fascia , customize the driveway and avoid speed bumps , and all should be good. Super stiff coilovers and walla (yeah right like its that simple) yeah I was wondering that, what about side skirts, what is the most beneficial design?

WOW. Thats nice. I wish my Z looked that good. (you have more than one car huh). I wish I could start my project. School has priority and I'd like to do the entire project all at once. Pat yourself on the back for that. I'm 18 also but I haven't gone that far I'm giving you great job man. I agree with you on the black air dam that it will accentuate the pillars and molding. Keep up the nice work. Out of curiosity did you have the engine bay painted too?

Wow I don't think I have ever seen those pics of 240zTurbo's engine. Pretty nice. I like it except for the NOS. To me that says he wasn't satisfied with what the engine was putting out alone. Thanks for mentioning that. After reading up on him he saounds kinda like me, a stubborn one that wants it his way. (I'll probably get a lot of inspiration and help from his creation). I agree 5% all around is better than higher rpms. High RPMS only hurts the engine more. There's a reason why its called a redline. At that point you could be doing more damage than gaining a benefit in power. Sure you gotta love the sound of high rpm but earlier power is more desirable. I'm lookin for a good midrange powerband 3k-5k (rpms). Sure with all the add ons my redline will probably move up a little. TO maybe 6k-6.5k (rpms). If and when the day comes to build the engine I think electronics (mostly wiring) is where I'll get screwed up. I get kinda confused with that stuff. Trying to wire up my friends car didn't go well for me. He did 99% of the wiring because I didn't have the slightest clue as to where anything went. Thats my weak spot. (explains why I'm going for a mechanical engineering degree and not an electronic type of degree).

WOW! I get a lot of strict criticism. Alright, if I'n not mistaken as far as engines go. NO turbos=high compression, Turbos=lower compression. As for the I/C piping, good point on the size, I didn't think about that at the moment. Having consistent tube size is more important that trying to achieve 3". I do a lot of thinking out loud before thinking about it on the computer for some reason. Yeah I realize what forum this is. The one that actually helps people. Sure a lot of guys here do V8 swaps and I think thats awesome and I highly respect and awe their cars. But, if I saw an L28 pushing 500+ HP next to a V8 pushing 500+HP, I'd be more interested in the L28. Moving along, the engine block, if you buy a used junkyard engine you the the rish that everything could br defective, reman? well less things would be defective. My major concern is having a good foundation, a good "perfect" engine block. The dan thing makes perfect sense to me, I can't believe we had the discussion. I'm not pissing in anyones sand box. Merely voicing an opinion that is very minute. Well no that the cats out of the bag I don't need to say it again. No I don't want 800hp more like 500-650hp. This number can always change though. Deciding how much power I'm comfortable with is still pending. I want enough power to send chills down my spine but not so much that it scares the crap out of me. So far the most power I've put to the test in another car was 400hp. That was pretty intense but not enough to severely scare me. The goodie list is desirable. How many L28's have I built? Well one. It was my friends engine and it was a combined effort. Mods were minimal. More along the lines of a rebuild to be quite honest. So I really don't have a ton of experience at all. I'm only 18 years old. These additions ar right now merely day dreams but I have good intentions, of course we all probably say that? This engine is like a math problem with 50 variables and I'm trying to solve it so that is gives the correct answer. -Goals of the engine- approx 500-650HP 500-650 lb/ft of torque 17+ PSI of boost

Ok well first I want to thank everyone for replying that replied. OK first off I think a 3.1L stroker engine with the turbos is higher prone to detonation. By adding Water or Alcohol or CO2 injection this possibility should be very limited if I am not mistaken. It was mentioned that 500CC injectors are good for 500hp. Question, does the CC directly correlate the hp trying to be achieved. In other words would 350cc injectors be good for 350hp? About the ignition system. I was not aware that a distibutor could be completely taken out of the engines composition. I am already learning new things. It was mentioned that 1 T03-04 Turbo could push 500Hp. WHat about two? Another Idea what about two turbos one being T3-4 or T4 and the other being a T25 or T3. One for early boost the other for later boost. IC piping I was thinking more along the lines of three inch. Why, well I'm thinking in whole, three pipe goes into the engine and three inch comes out. (very minimal restriction) Those walls are important and will also be considered. By no means will thy be left untouched. My philosophy in modifying cars is that if you're going to put a lot of work into an engine than everything that works with the engine must also be equally improved. I am an all or nothing kind of guy. Another different engine is a big no no if you ask me. Your changing car to drastically. The heart of the car isn't from that type of car anymore. RB's belong in Skylines (its what makes the unique from other cars), Vq35 belong in those the factory intended them to be in. The L28 belongs in the 280ZX and that is where it will stay in my project (it will look slightly different though) but it is still an L28. See the engine must be worthy of the interior and exterior. A flamboyant "racey" exterior/interior must have an equally imposing engine/drivetrain. The CNC'ed block has not been ditched, if I could do it I would. I'm merely creating multiple possibilities ( or options). Why a reman engine. No Miles! Longer life, more usage. A new engine would be most desirable. A used engine, is used for one, wear and tear has already taken a toll on it in some form. Better to start off fresh slate then put yourself into a postion where other problems could occur because of used engine. AS for the fan aren't there puller electric fans? So do you think a 5 speed is fine? (just upgrade in certain areas)(maybe a racing 5speed, or just ALum. Flywheel and better Clutch) Keep bringing the input. Iam already learning new things. Thanks again for replying.

Okay I've conjured up this radical idea for my 280ZX's engine in the future. Tell me what you think and what kind of power could expected. Take a reman L28ET and make a 3.1L stroker out of it. Use the P90 head with upgraded internals and a mild racing cam. Full port and polish job. Custom intake manifold. 650-750cc injectors. Billet fuel rail. Some kind of electronic (aftermarket) stand fuel management system. Upgraded fuel pump. NGK spark plug wires and spark plugs. After market distributor. Use a throttle body from a 240sx. Twin T03-04 turbos with upgraded internals,and adjustable external wastegates, BOV with recirculated blow off pressure. Intercooled with 3" mandrel bent pipe , water injection/CO2 injection (not sure which one is better exactly, I know CO2 is cooler). Custom larger diameter exhuast manifolds, down pipe to three inch diameter exhuast straight through design. As for the cooling system, large capacity aluminum radiator, oil cooler and an electric fan in front of both the radiator and intercooler. Also that engine mated with a 6speed tranny either aftermarket or from a 350Z.

Nope. A splitter needs to be very close to the ground. I tried to do a big splitter on the front of my 240Z but I didn't get the ride height down enough and it became a lift device. Really scary in a big sweeping turn at 120+. How close is close? Do drifters get and benefit in regards to aerodynamics because those cars are pretty low. Or are you talking like two inches or less, similar to a GT race cars, which are literally sitting on the ground? If it has to be this low more factors come into play. When cornering at 50+ mph you need to be sure your suspension is stiff enough so that you don't rub the ground. Another thing I'm beginning to wonder is whether a front "wing" (fascia) (valance, you get the idea) is more benificial to have the overall shape like this or like this >. If the latter is more beneficial for aerodynamics, back to the drawing board for me. Just the shape those lines make is what I'm referring to.

Tell me if this could be done. If you hve bars that goback and attach to the rear strut towers and also have a removeable strut tower brace going across. Something that is a little more aesthetically pleasing then a simple bar but would still and ridgity. Is this possible? peej410 - are your 1/8" metal plates weldd to the floor or are they bolted? Another question is what is the benefit of bolting a fullcage in a car if you cannot get the cage out of the car is first place? Thanks for all the feedback guys.

Has anyone ever made a 7 point roll-cage. Two attachments up behind the firewall directly below the A-pillars. Two attachements at the bottom of the B-pillars. Two attachments at the rear strut tower. and the seventh being two diagonal bars coming from the top of the B-pillars and meeting together ontop of the tranny tunnel? Agree with John C that you would need the horizontal bars to connect the hoops whatever those are. From what I hear, is a hoop simply just a two side bars connected by a horizontal bar or an upside down "U" shape, made of bars?

What about 4 inches of ground clearance. WOuld that be suffucient for created a "tunnel" under the car with this concept that i've designed? Or would a G-Nose still be better?

Ok another thing, you guys all refer to hoops, whats a hoop?Sorry, I 'm not very educated in the field of rollcages. What if the bars in front of you have foam padding on them and foam padding on the sides also? Would that be okay, or still no?

welds look a little sloppy ,transition also looks questionable, nice but not exactly greatly engineered.

generally what exhuast people do is build the system based off the original bends in the original exhuast. They bend the new pipe until is matches the bends of the old pipe. THis way you don't have to measure angles and stuff. Don't make it harder than it has to be.

Wow scottie you got a nice exhuast. I got 3" straight back with an APEXi N1 Turbo model muffler but its not mandrel . NO one in Vegas seems to have a mandrel bender in ther exhuast shop. I probably just didn't look hard enough. Ground clearance like 4". I scrape sometimes though, my suspension is tired, I need new springs big time. My car is lowered but the cheepo way. I've got low-pro tires on my 280ZX turbo wheels. Lowered the car like two inches.