Drftn280zxt

how about a paser (sp?) with a 402.

Must of been real slick or a good turn for the 350Z to spin out, those 265 in the rear aren't that easy to separate from the road. Sorry about yer Z though you'll find a solution. I wrecked my 280zx when I was seventeen. I was going 50-55 on a 45 road, just barely started raining, so old guys pulls out in front just barely on the road I lock up the brakes slide 70ft hit his rear at like 5mph crunch my hood and destroy my headlight scoop. Live and learn. At least I got everything fixed. Plus about a year later, 18yrs old (I'm almost 19) I drifted my through an intersection (running a stop sign purposely(no cars in the vicinity)) slide goes well, Then it went to wide, nailed a curb at like 40mph. Bent the right rear control and my rim. Simple fix but lets say I haven't done that since then (drift that intersection that is) How much did the guy with the black 350Z pay to do twin turbos?, and how much power is he running?

Personally I don't think the rear flare is big enough on that kit and the front fascia seems a little boring. Just my opinion though. Course now this kit or the one I've designed will both require heavy customizing.

uh I think you have your offset calculations backwards. If the offset were negative 19mm it would be a deep dish rim. You actually subract the centerline from the backspacing. Hondas (for example) have a 7" wheel I think. 8"wide (flange to flange). 4" centerline. +45offset (+1.77"offset)( the bolts are further out on the outside of the car).So in this scenario you have X-4"=1.77.......X=5.77" backspacing. so the equation is really Backspacing-Centerline=Offset deep dish would be like this. Lets use a 9inch wheel for example. The true width like you said is an inch bigger being 10". Divide by two and the centerline is 5". Okay now lets say I have 3.5" of backspacing. Now lets work the math. 3.5"-5"=-1.5" or -38.1mm offset deep dish is always negative! Just wanted to fix your mistake the schematic and everything else was right though.

just sand it back down to primer. I'm not sure why its doing that, I'm not a painting expert.

What do you think Dorifto_Tuning

Thanks for the feedback guys. Since so many people are interested to see what this style would look like on an S30 I'll see if I can make up a decent sketch. I'll tell this though in case you didn't notice the rear flares blend into the doors. Most widebodies end there flares right before the doors, like Dan Juday's 240Z with the wide rear end. Heavy customizing this route but it looks way better(I think).Also there is a slight flare up front that can be barely noticed and it blends into the front fascia. I'll post some pics if and when I draw up the S30 design.

very nice run, and impressive driving. You would probably be pretty good at drifting watching how well you handled that slide. Nice stiff suspension, I saw very minimal body roll. What RPM were you running during most? (if you remember). I love the sound of your engine

This is what I hope to do some day. (I designed it).There is nothing good looking for the 2+2. It has to be custom. In my case I want to modernize my Z. I have a 1979 280ZX 2+2.

they are right about the flares. I think you should've kept the rice wing and painted it flat black like the car. I would've looked mean.

c'mon people almost 300 views and only 4 people have givin me feedback. I need opinions guys (and girls). What do you think. This request donesn't apply to those who have already givin feedback, thanks everyone who has replied for showing interest.

Thats 3.5" of backspacing if I'm not mistaken. On a seven inch wheel the entire rim (bead to bead is 8") (.5" of space for each bead) Subtract .5" from the four inch you measured and walla 3.5" of backspacing. Plus take into account the thickness of the metal on the hub of the wheel (probably .5") giving you a centerline wheel ("0" offset) I'm not sure how your going to fit that tire on the wheel, its 2.5" wider than the entire wheel.

64.001 inches. (1970 240Z) Check out this link loads of info http://www.conceptcarz.com/folder/vehicle.asp?car_id=2194&vehicleTypeID=

very nice but a little overkill. I'm sure you'll make money off of them.

asfar as the five lug goes. I thinking if i'm willing to eventually pay good money for nice wheels may as well just put in a new hub (5 lug). I think this way do it the right way or not at all. I consider adapters the "cheap" easy way out of this problem. Patience is truly a virtue. I am in no rush. Great things take time to make.

them are real nice. Someday i'll get some, when they make them.

how can you determine what size (width) tires you need for a wheel?

so far I've taken a welding class. I agree though in college I'll probably take a automotive body work class and mechanical class.

yeah I wish that were possible (doing the body work that is). I agree though not much has been done to S130's. But what is even rarer is stuff done to an S130J (280ZX 2+2) thats is what the drawing is supposed to depict anyways. Next step I think is going to be a clay model. I started to make the car in my 3D animations class but I had too little time to complete it. I need to learn how to glass first I suppose. Here's a ? What would be better the rear fenders made from metal, flimsy fiberglass or urethane. My idea although expensive is to have a professional make the kit or to do this after college. You must remember I'm only 18. (this is my dream car). Not a ferrari but a duped out 280ZX 2+2 that has only the modern highlights of todays cars. So far I have the 280ZX 2+2 (1979 to,even more rare).

the axis mod only comes in 18" or bigger plus the spokes are too thick. Those wheels by gruppe-s are nice and come in awesome sizes but no seven spoke. Seven spoke rims must not be popular. I'll keep looking though. Thanks for posting the sites though I saw some other rims that are very nice.

what do plan on puttingin there? Also are you going to make your on fenders or are you going to make the frame work with the original fenders and bolt up spots?

I'm thinking 3-4" groundclearance at the track and 4-5" on road (ah the abilities coilovers have(just wish I had em)) You think all blue will look good eh. Do you think the inlets in the hood (lower part) look good. I wish I had a way to make the headlights and taillights real. The color is decided though 350Z daytona blue (color code B17) started thinking that having a black hood in vegas isn't so smart and it's a pain to keep looking good. Althoughthe stripe I designed is cool I think you may be right with it being solid blue. How about the wing? The flares I thought of when I looked at this car a little flare up front to blend in with the front fascia and its merely perfect

Tell me what you think of this design. Keep the hood black? or go all blue?what do you think of the flares up front and on the rear?

whats the thing that sits horizontal behind the I/C?(the thing with Z---X on it)