JaysZ

hey guys, that sounds like a great deal, i'll check your site and send the stuff over as soon as i can. i didnt mean to start a bid war or anything, i apologize if thats what it sounded like. i'm a little stoked to know that the finish i want is available, but before i do the horns, i would like to research what length horns and taper would yield the best results. quick question, do the parts have to be polished before they can get the "black chrome" treatment? this was necessary for anodizing from what i understand. thanks again, jason

whoever can quote me the best deal on the valve cover and filter covers wins! =)

black chrome would be awesome to have the K&N filter covers and valve cover done in! does any of you guys offer that color? i wonder if dead roman is still around, since he lives kinda sorta near me. and would powdercoating the horns make them difficult to fit back into the slots? they aren't too tight, but adding some thickness may chip or scratch it off as i try to force it in

sparks, i once hand polished a large sheet of copper that i cut a design into with a jewelers saw the same way you did and it wasn't so bad, but it was important to sand in one direction. if i hand polish them, how much would it be to anodize them red? whats the going rate on labor to polish things like this anyway? i would like to redo my valve cover and K&N filter covers as well hey austin, thanks for chiming in. i believe they are stainless. the rust isn't too bad, mainly surface rust. there isnt any coating at all on them... either chrome or paint, which i'm thankful for since its one less thing to scrape off. i would snap a few pics but my digital cam is out of commission right now. the filter covers are chromed and are pitted, if that is the correct term. curious, would anodizing prevent future rust from forming? did anyone ever figure out what the best way to "black chrome" them was? thanks again

what would be the cheaper method.. polishing + anodizing red or chroming them? i could try sanding them down myself too... what do you guys think?

I got a new cam timing chain, crank sprocket, cam gear, and chain guide, all by TRW and was wondering if the quality is any good? Thanks!

I couldn't be more impressed. On my daily beater, I need new tires. I jump on Tire Rack and find a great deal on tires, lower than anyone else. Click, order. 20 mins. later and my phone rings, not the one I gave them, but the one listed with my credit card. They confirm the order, approve it and done. It arrives TOMORROW!. Best of all, its tax free since its coming from a different state and its the cheapest form of shipping they use, UPS Ground, which ironically arrives in 1 day rather than the standard 3 to 5. I'm sold on Tire Rack for my future purchases lol. Too bad these tires are coming faster than my wheels are!

my friend told me this and i think i saw it online here as well: if you want to build a car, pick any 2... but you can't do 3. 1) Fast 2) Cheap 3) Reliable like said above, if your focus is autoX, do your suspension/brakes first with the $4k . with *any* car, that should be #1 priority IMO. (and make sure you have a strong foundation to begin with). gut the hell out of it. i have 1 seat and no interior whatsoever. i don't mind the added noise and vibration lol. but.. $4k total? hell, you can easily dump that much into the L6 alone and still have room for improvement...

absolutely stunning, so nice and clean! that shade of white is beautiful!

my buddy just picked up an eisenmann exhaust for his M3 =) that thing is beautiful. it wasnt anywhere near $15,000 though!

320mm to 350mm.. no more or no less. IMHO, the perfect size is 320mm. if you have fat legs, go for the "D" shape (flat bottom) lol. consider something like the Momo Apache (350mm) since it has the thumb pads, its pricey but you may be able to find one on ebay used.

my friend has an awesome Sparco wheel with Alcantara on the top of the wheel and although nice and grippy, it will get "fuzzy" over time and use. i've got a Grant wheel with the carbon fiber finish and it isn't slippery (feels great actually, nice thickness) and hasn't faded but it did get knicked and scratched. i think for something that involves more than just leisurely driving (drifting, racing in general) a steering wheel is going to get worn down no matter what kind.. its just the nature of it. my suggestion is to just get a good wheel that isn't too expensive with a durable finish.. leather perhaps. a buddy of mine is building up a race porsche 944 and bought this wheel and put the momo horn button in, its nicer than we expected and was only $45 shipped! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Offical-MTVs-PIMP-MY-RIDE-320mm-Race-Steering-Wheel_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33704QQitemZ8017927812QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

i thought the schnieder was a pretty decent cam? no?

that one has been posted before its the Z with the jet engine in it

i dont know the answer to your question but damn... those rims are BAD !!! nice choice on those. are you going to sell the CCW's by chance?

this guy has some crazy things for sale... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BUGATTI-EB-110-QUAD-TURBO-V12-ENGINE_W0QQitemZ4591189342QQcategoryZ46093QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

sweet! sign me up for 1 back 1 front please. thanks

damn! i'm really diggin the first one, though the front valence might be a bit too aggressive for my taste =) excellent work! i wish i could draw like that

Thanks guys, I've read up on the linked thread and talked to Pete. I'm now confident to take this a little further and see if I can squeeze more out. Its just my car was in a very awkward situation. I've heard plenty of stores where people AT FAULT have gotten way more and I'm sick of getting screwed because of them.

ouch. that sucks. so you got the car for $250 pretty much? well, the $525 is the 30% salvage value i would owe them if i took the car. i would end up getting $1225 all together, but of course thats a huge loss (for me) based on what i invested in it. if i hold out longer, you think they would give? i never had the car appraised. its literally been in the shop since i got it for some reason or another. i was hoping to get it appraised after all the work at the body shop was done, which ironically is where all this mess occured. if i dont cash the check, technically, the case is still open, correct?

Hey guys, hopefully there is someone more experienced in the field to help me out with a predicament I have. My car was involved in an accident. the lady has Fred Loya insurance and their rep told me they deemed the car a total loss and are willing to pay me $1225. I have $2400 in receipts alone for repairs on the frame and transmission prior to the accident, not including any of the engine mods. a guy once told me I should hold out from signing the form as long as possible if I want more money. This will pressure them to give in so they can close the case out in a hurry since it looks bad for them. Is this true? What do you think I should do? I need a little more than $1225 to pick up where I left off from... btw, the accident was involved in a body shop unattended. The lady was drunk and crashed into the place very late at night. Here is the email from the insurance people: Please be advised that your vehicle is considered to be a total loss. Per my conversation with you, you have opted to retain your vehicle. The settlement offer is as follows: 2) You retain salvage: $1750.00 ACV $525.00 30% SALVAGE $ DEDUCTIBLE $1225.00 NET T/L SETTLEMENT Since you have decided to retain your vehicle, enclosed please find the Affidavit of Salvage Retention form that needs to be signed and returned to our office. Please make sure that all persons listed on the title sign the Power of Attorney / Odometer forms EXACTLY as they appear on the title. IF THE FORMS ARE NOT SIGNED OR FILLED IN CORRECTLY, THE SETTLEMENT OF THE CLAIM WILL BE DELAYED. The check for the property damage settlement will be released once all of the total loss paperwork has been received. Should you have any questions, please feel free to call me.

i've been thinking about this for quite some time, and my idea for a solution would be to have the 3M RockGuard film applied. Not only is it extremely durable and 100% clear, it is UV protectant and custom cut to your specifications. my ideal situation would be to have my windows replaced with lexan and sandwiched between the rockguard material so i would have no worries. i've never checked pricing though. a typical application on your hood, front bumper, and headlights will run you about $800 USD installed. http://www.rock-guard.com/faqs.html

more at Darius' website: http://www.servinitup.com/gallery.php

your sarcasm is great. i dont have hours a day to browse the forums. funny, obviously you do.