JaysZ

you are lucky! my car was at the shop for a year, and the day before it was to be painted, a lady ran into the body shop and they had to redo all their work over again!

hey EMWHYR0HEN, i'm 135 lbs. the seat i have is the recaro "SPG". i like this one the most because i fit really snug in it. the shoulder and leg support is excellent, its one of the slimmest seats i could find but i'm sure there are similar ones out there. i didn't do a ton of seat shopping since the moment i sat in this one, i knew i had to have it

Jon, I got some pictures of the height difference for you

not exactly a "buy and install" type setup. this site has good insight on what to expect http://www.geocities.com/row4navy/engine.html

hey Jon, there is still plenty of room. (i'm short anyway lol, 5' 6") the new seat rail actually sits lower than the stock one, i'll snap a pic for comparison soon. i'm hoping to make it height and length adjustable as well but i'm still thinking about what i can do as far as what tools and equipment is available for me to use.

i finally snapped some pics of it. its not done yet, but hopefully it will be done soon! i've been super busy. view of the top view of the bottom test fit overhead view test fit side view

i finally got it =) thanks for the tip! now i need to buy an angled screw driver to get those stupid defrosting vents out :/

whichever color(s) you decide on, i'm sure it will look amazing. your car is beautiful! looking forward to it, please keep us posted!

does the heat help to "force" the resin to cure, so to speak? i've done many side projects in FG but this is the first time this has happened to me.

hello, yes it is definately possible i mixed the wrong amount of MEKP in. i brushed over a little extra after i found it wasn't hardening properly and when i checked this morning it was better but still a little moist which i thought was odd. the weather was cool as well, so that definately could have affected it. well, either way i chunked the can of resin and will pick up a new one tonight so i can get this over with lol. thanks

did you spray it or use the roll-on method? that looks good! (as far as i can tell from the tiny pics)

thanks bill =) i've got a "new" F54 block that I'm trying to build. so, which are the things that are most "do-able" for a person new to this? or rather, which things are so simple even a monkey could do it? are there certain things that should definately hand over to a pro? i want to do as much as i can, but i want the job done right since this is a car i'll be taking to the track and i dont want something blowing up on me lol

A shop very close to me has quoted me $400 for the teardown and rebuild of the block (install new bearings, hone, clean). $40 for milling the head flat. (price doesnt include new bearings or piston rings of course). i'm interested since this shop has a great reputation, but is this a good deal? it will be slightly less if i removed the rods, pistons and crank myself and just have them hone, clean, and assemble. what do you guys think?

i don't know how long my bottle of resin has been sitting, but this afternoon i tried to lay up some fiberglass on my dash cap and it isn't hardening. the resin even turned green, and this particular brand dries an amber color. has this resin gone bad?

thanks i will try that =)

I'm trying to remove my air con unit in its entirety. So far, with the dash gone, I was only able to remove the blower and a few other small pieces. The main thing is in the center which have copper tubes coming from the engine bay. I can't seem to unscrew anything that will allow me to remove it without cutting. I'd like to keep this in decent condition for resale. Is it even worth anything to scrap or should I just cut it out? Anyone else remove theirs? Here are some pictures, thank you in advance!

ok.... well, if the point of all that was just to open the door, why not climb in through the passenger side?

I'm in the process of cleaning up the engine bay and redoing the wiring so I thought I may as well relocate the brake master and slave cylinder inside. I've seen it done before and I think it looks so clean. Is this a difficult process?

nice! are you going to do the whole car?

beautiful seat you have there dragonfly. i have since decided to make my own seat rail since the slide mechanism is raised (from the spring) on the one closest to the door and it would seem like more trouble than it is worth to use the existing rails. will probably have a "working" prototype by next weekend.

ok sounds fair enough. i'll take it in this weekend to have everything tested. thanks

what i'm trying to figure out is why my system doesnt work. the battery is brand new. when i first installed it, the first 10 times it started up instantly. now, i need to have it jump started every time. i've got a new alternator installed... but the battery still isn't getting charged. is there anything i should be looking for? i'm sure getting a new battery will eventually give me the same results.

because then it wouldn't be such a uniform shape. since i have to make multiples of this, not just one, i'd rather skip the frustration of trying to bend and compare over and over to get them identical. also, again, this is practice and for fun.... (plus i prefer to keep it simple) another example. and this is what mine would look like.

something a little like this: the two brackets go on the side of the seat of course. the brackets will then be mounted on the stock seat rails. i didnt' have 4" plate available, plus this is a project and a learning experience so i didn't want something as easy as a 4" plate that i cut.

so the old one is out... but it is different than the replacement. (both are Hitachi). anyway, the shaft size was different and the pulley was different as well. Pic below. here is what it looks like with the old style pulley (which is what we ended up using since it lines up with the belt better than the other would). this is the new billet pulley that i have. notice that the pulley sits further out, would this still be ok to use? the main problem is this: the battery still doesn't seem to be getting a charge from the alternator. i have an Odyssey PC680, small battery I know, but it has definately proven itself to be strong enough to start the motor. the problem is definately in getting it to charge. what else am I missing? its frustrating having to get a jump each and every time. fusible links?