jbc3

I welded AN fittings on the end of both fuel rails. Then I mounted the Paxton FPR on the firewall. Here is a picture of the set-up when I was putting the car together. It is when I was wiring everything so it's a mess, but you can see the fuel pressure regulator and rails. As far as the pump goes, I put a big Paxton pump in front of the gas tank, low, on a home made bracket. Sitting above the pump, parallel to it, I mounted the filter on the same bracket, so the fuel is pumped and goes 180 degrees up to the filter and then up to the front. Works very well.

I run the Paxton FPR, which is similar to the Aeromotive. I ran -8 feed and -6 return on my '96 Z28 for years without a hint of a problem. When I did the fuel lines for my 280Z, I ran -8 feed and -8 return (simply because that is what I had on hand). Works fine. Jody

To put a "little" light on this subject... for the Pinks race I was involved with, there was no tech inspection for the cars and the Pinks crew never once mentioned safety equipment usage... but at MIR (Maryland International Raceway) the track official, Royce, who also is the owner, told us "make sure you are using your proper safety equipment". I suspect that if someone was doing something significantly out of whack, they would have stepped in. I know that when we have local track rentals, (MIR and Mason Dixon) there is no tech inspection and the safety equipment is on the honor system. BUT if someone is way out of range, I have seen the track officials step in if they notice.

Bartman, OK, even in open loop your right BLMs are telling you that there is a problem, they should be reading 128 and yours is 135-141. I am not sure why. As soon as you go into closed loop the left O2 is lazy and is not alternating like the right is. Your BLMs are all over the place and are seriously split. 128 is where your should be shooting for and you have 108 (rich) on the left and 153 (lean) on the right at times. First of all, I'd reset the computer and see if the open loop situation goes away, your numbers should be locked at 128. Then I'd swap the O2's to see if the problem of the lazy response follows that left O2. If it does, replace it. If not, you could have a bad wire, or connector. Then re-record and see where you are. If the problem stays on the left side also make sure you don't have a vacuum leak (TB gasket, cracked injector O-ring etc..) that could be part of the problem. Also is your exhaust tight before or near your O2 sensor, a leak could cause funny numbers also. I had split block learns at idle in closed loop, so I reprogrammed my computer to run in open loop idle all the time. It helped me out a ton! The big cam can throw the numbers off at idle easily. I have never personally had a big problem with split block learns other than idle with larger cams, but many have. You are getting knock counts and retard at 5 mph and no acceleration, so I would suspect that you have something banging around, like the exhaust. The knock that was on the file should have nothing to do with the problems you are describing. Do you have Tunercat or LT1-edit? Jody

I don't know if they would let them ship it to them. Call them, the info is listed below. Look for a local shop that does high pressure lines and fittings for tractor/truck/manufacturing equipment. Colliflower Inc 14650 Rothgeb Dr # O Rockville, Maryland 20850 Phone: (301) 315-2600 Jody

I have discussed my fix several times. I took my factory line to a Parker fittings (Hydraulic line company) place and cut the master cyl fitting off and had them press a pipe fitting on that line. then I used a section of hard line to my Tilton MC. The quick disconnect fitting and stock slave stay the same. This was for an LT1, but should work with the LS1 set-up.

Congrats! I would check out the gas tank and make sure it's not a rust pile on the inside! Cars that sit that long frequently tend to rot. I'd also go over the rubber in the car especially the brake lines. When I bought my 280, it had been sitting for years also. The outside was in decent shape, but the gas tank was totally full of rust.

Post the log. I would look at the intake hose/connections and make sure the intake hose is on tight and there are no leaks after the MAF. The O2's and KS don't usually cause idle issues. Jody

I only changed the fuel supply and return lines, leaving the vent alone except I cut the vent line short and it terminates under the car. It has not caused me any issues. The tank will still retain some pressure. Jody

http://ac-world.com/SplitAir.php http://www.airconditioner.com/MINI_SPLITS.asp Here are the perfect units for the garage. No cutting big holes, they are quiet and they work well. I bought the Hitachi 9000 BTU heat pump unit for a ~ 22 X 22 garage. I have an insulated Clopay door and insulated the walls. Jody

Put an air conditioner in your garage! I did, and I wonder why i didn't do it years ago.

Colliflower Inc 14650 Rothgeb Dr # O Rockville, MD Phone: (301) 315-2600 It's off Gude Drive, near Southlawn. There are quite a few Colliflower shops in the metro area, look them up you may find one closer to you. They only make the lines to what YOU tell him, so measure carefully. I am hoping to go to Mason Dixon this Friday night. They have their Friday night street race program twice a month. We'll have to see how the weather holds out and the 100+ temps. http://www.masondixondragway.com/2006%20July.htm Jody

A few years back, I was clearing a path in the woods behind my house with the riding mower. I went over a small brush pile and all of a sudden my one leg was covered with bees. Someone could have made $100,000.00 on funniest home videos if they were filming me! I was jumping around slapping myself and hauling ass! The mower sat there for over an hour running, before I went over and kicked it in gear and let it run itself out of the woods. A big cup of sevin dust dumped in the hole took care of them. Bees suck, I feel your pain. My leg hurt and itched for 2 weeks. Jody

That line you have sounds like the same line that I was having problems with. The heat may be making matters worse. The Parker teflon line is good to over 400 degrees and I can tell you it does not smell. Find a local supplier, you will be happy. By the way, you can hit "preview post" or edit your original posts Jody

I had a terrible squat problem on launches and after talking to jnjdragracing's brother, I installed double bump stops on the rear coilovers. I actually use one hard one and one soft one on each side. Works great, cured the squat problems and I have no traction problems on launches. Check the video out in my sig. Jody

Try this link... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96797&highlight=rotor It was one of my first posts trying to figure out the front brake set-up with the GM hub/rotor. I don't remember the part number. Do the searches! the information is there. As far as my rear, I put an R230 rear in my car with the Moser axles and MM billet stub axles. I wanted a rear that would not break at the drag strip. I had replaced my stock 4th gen f-body rear with a Moser 9" rear with a Detroit locker since I broke the stock f-body rear. I didn't want to deal with having to deal with another weak rear. Jody

Ron, Do a search... I have done this... but I will warn you that it is not easy. The 4th gen rear caliper brackets needed to be surface ground alot and opened up to fit the rear axle housing and have the correct offset for the calipers to match the rotors. I also bought Modern Motorsport Billet stub axles with the chevy bolt pattern. The fronts I used a 3rd Gen hub/rotor and changed the outer bearing and race. Then I needed wide adaptors to fit the stock 4th gen f-body wheels. Jody

No, the cost of the lines and the aggrivation of installing them was well worth the peace and quiet from the nagging !

If you can figure a way to mount the stock master cyl... go ahead. Get the Tilton master cyl, it goes right in. I also took my stock slave hose and cut the master cyl connector off and had an AN-3 (I think) fitting crimped on, so the Tilton easily adapted to the stock slave. Jody

OK I bit the bullet and measured all of my fuel lines, supply, return, pump to filter line and regulator to fuel rail line.... then I went to the local Parker fitting supplier (Colliflower) and had them make up teflon lined braided lines with their steel AN fittings for the car. I replaced all of the lines tonight and finally NO SMELL!!! It cost $250 for the lines, but it was well worth it. There is no question that the Russell lines somehow let the fuel smell come right through. All along the lines you can smell gas, but they were dry. I also put cats on the exhaust this week... my car finally smells good Jody

I have Stainless braided lines for the feed and return and the garage has a gas smell. I checked all of the fittings and they are all tight and no leaks. The vent does not seem to be the source, I have even blocked it and the smell has continued. The braided fuel lines smell like gas, the whole length. I have heard from a couple of friends that they had similar experiences after their lines were a few years old. These are about 1 year old. Any one else notice this? I was considering going to aluminum lines. Thoughts? I have to get the smell resolved, the Wife is not happy... and you know the saying... when Momma's not happy.... no one's happy!

Yes, the 3900 ohm resistor to ground should eliminate the code. If it does, it means either the KS is bad or the desensitizing circuit is wired wrong.

Run a 3900ohm resistor between the blue KS wire and ground and try a test datamaster recording. There should be no retard, since the resistor simulates the KS with no knock. Here is the link to Mike Chaney's knock desensitizer mod. Check your wiring... http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/knock.gif Jody

Is the KS installed? You get that code when the KS is disconnected or not grounded properly. If the code is set, the computer pulls timing all the time. If the resistor solution you are talking about is not grounded properly, it will also set a code. The LT4 KS will help only if you are getting excessive valve train noise. Jody

Here is an old picture from when I was just putting the motor in the Z. I tried to isolate the regulator and rail. You should be able to get a good idea from this. Jody