Owen

Hopefully, yes, but what it comes down to is if I'm comfortable with the car. Hopefully, I can find a cheap solution that will let me take it off if I don't like it and won't leave a big hole in my wallet! Owen

True, it's not anything I'm going to do right away. Don't have the money anyway...it just feels like too much understeer with only the front bar. Of course, the car's suspension is not tuned worth sh*t yet either. Owen

Hey! How's it going??? So far, the CRX pumps out ice cold air almost immediately. I picked up another AC set from the junkyard this weekend and will begin building it into the Z. Stupid me, I hope I can find a pulley that will work with the import compressor or vice-versa. Owen

Hmm. mine didn't seem to fit at all. Does your bar mount on the uprights or on the mounts in front of the diff? Any pix? Owen

Actually, I don't care whether it's the R200 or R230, what I want to know now is....what have you people done for rear swaybars? In doing the Q45 diff swap, I lost the use of my rear sway bar. I think think Terry used one off a Prelude, but he's not using the Q45 diff...rather than crawling under each and every car in the junkyards, I was thinking of using these. This way, everything will be adjustable too.

Is there gonna be a box put around that fuel cell? I'd hate to see something bounce off the road and puncture it. Didn't that happen to someone's oilpan? I just made a steel box. Owen

It should run leaner as the bigger cam is allowing the car to breathe better. But because of the vacuum, maybe the computer is dumping in more fuel like you say. Is the computer programmable and does the system use a wideband O2? How much fuel you add or subtract would depend on what air/fuel ratio you wanted at a certain rpm and vaccum. A good WBO2 is helpful to measure this, an EGT also helps. From what I hear, the "cheaper" ($150 or so) air fuel gauges are not very accurate, especially with a narrow band O2. FYI...what I've learned from the people at FAST (Fuel Air Spark Technology) is "give the car (ECU) what it wants to make it drivable, powerful, etc. don't just rely on what textbooks say the A/F ratio should theoretically be". Owen

Thanks guys, was able to charge the car up last nite. As for the o-rings, I've read a couple of tech bulletins that the only things that really need to be changed are the drier and the oil in the compressor. The drier I have says R-12 or R-134A, so you don't need a specific drier as long as you don't mix the refigerants. Z AC is next! Owen

Oh no, not this again...is it an R200 Q45 VLSD??? http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=35406 Better hope that bar fits both the R200 and the R230... Owen

I have the adapters that screw on to the R12 ports. What I need is something to connect the hose to these adapters. The gauge set I have has two hoses with quick connects, and they look like they attach to the manifold, but the manifold fittings are solid-no-hole. So I was wondering if they are just to attach the hoses when the entire set is not in use? This is what I have. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2435 The other set they sell has the knobs on the ends instead of the fittings. This picture makes more sense than the instructions, it seems I already have everything I need. Owen

Sweet, I'll look into that. My manifold gauge is still R-134A tho... Owen

This is a non-Z issue but will eventually be applied to my Z. I'm installing a junkyard AC into my CRX. The system is R12 and everything on the market now is R134A. I bought a R-134A manifold gauge set from Harbor Freight and an R-12 to R-134A conversion set from a local auto supply shop. The hoses from the gauge don't match up to the conversion kit...after some research, I discovered that all R-134As use quick disconnects. (So why the hell don't the manifold gauge sets sold by HF as well as other stores, come with them?!?) I need the quick couplings that attach to the hi and low side fittings on the car. Are they the same as the quick couplings that attach to the manifold gauge set? Or do I need special ones? OR.... Are the quick disconnects on the side of the manifold just there for storage??? The brass fittings don't have any holes in them. If so I won't need to buy anything! Also, can anyone explain to me how to use the manifold gauge set? The instructions sucked! Any instructions I've seen use only 3 hoses at most, why are there two ports for each side? That would be 6 hoses total! ????? I've never owned a car with AC, this is all a mystery to me... Here's some "retrofitting not recommended" info. from Sanden. http://www.sanden.com/support/RETRO.html Thanks, Owen

Hmmm, depending on the price, I may be interested in set for use way in the future too. Owen

Does it open at regular intervals like the Ingersoll Rand one? How does the HF one know when to open anyway? Some I found http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3828421512&category=42875 http://airid.com/auto-drain-valves.htm http://www.autobodysupply.net/compressors_and_acc.htm $40 vs $9.99 is a big difference in quality... Owen

Jeff, what's the web address? Owen

I vote for the hardtop! Owen

Did some more thinking on the lifts again... A two post would be better when working on the car. But it would place a post right in the middle of the garage floor, vs a 4 post which would have the posts and each end of the garage....How about a forklift style post? I've seen these as parking solutions too. Either way, one side of the car will be against the garage wall (unless I get a caster kit). I assume two post lifts have to be bolted down permanently? I know the "mobile" ones cost a lot more. Owen

Thanks guys. Garage size can't change so the lift is my best option (it's more for working on the car than parking another one under it). Hmmm, 2 post or four....my wife is gonna ding her doors on the 2 post. Glenn, yeah, casters on everything is cool. Especially in my situation where I have to move things around to get at stuff I hid in the back! I guess I won't be painting in this new garage, or will put up a temporary booth, don't want overspray all over my brand new cabinets! Owen

I know what the item is, and it's on sale right now. But I remember someone here having a problem with it and posting a solution. Sigh, I'll take the non-tech board, Tim take the announcements board, Mike take the misc tech board.... j/k Owen

I like it! I wanted the hood like that too, but didn't want to lose the hood bulge so I ended up putting vents on both sides of it. Good job on the Ferrari style rear end too! Owen

Someone posted about a harbor freight automatic compressor drainer kit. Can anyone link me to it. Couldn't find it with the search

Is it safe to park another car under one lifted up with a two post? Most likely not, guess I'll have to get one of those park/lifts with four columns. Anyone know a reputable manufacturer? Owen

Mine is different than yours Tim, they said it was a '93. But I only have one speed sensor, not one on each side like yours. Owen

No..too easy. AND I'd have to go buy yarn Thanks for the K-I-S-S reality check! I still want to see how my new hood changes the temperature, but then I'd have to put my old hood back on... Owen