Owen

There's split boots out on the market but the ones i bought for my other car didnt even fit right. Best would be to pull the axle and reseal with 1 piece boots. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

About the distributor, even though you dont have a hood latch you might wanna put it in to either keep from losing/damaging it or to at least make user the hood closes all the way. I didn't have as much trouble as you getting the engine/trans in though, did about 5 times by myself. Make sure you got those motor mounts on the right way though...One thing, the driver side mount was rubbing the steering shaft so I had to grind part of the corner off. No biggie. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I did my SBC+T56 into 240Z as one piece. Seems to be different for different people but I had to hammer a lot of the tunnel, especially for the lock-out solenoid and the reverse lamp connector. My advice is basically the same as everyone elses. Also, try to have your car raised or stock height so the hoist legs can slide under the car easily. My biggest pain was the tilter. Cheapo POS! Everytime I cranked it in either direction, the moving part would scrape paint off the tilter and it would end up in my lifter valley. Luckily I caught this right away and got it covered up. That thing is trash now! Good luck. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Exactly! You get what you pay for...I paid 10 bucks... But also, the thing about carbs is they have these cool tilters that attach to them. But I'm using an EFI tunnel ram and couldn't get the thing to bolt. I guess I need longer bolts. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I have some links to a couple of places that sell T-56s and LT1s. I got mine from Regal Performance for 1600 with the clutch and master/slave set. Stuff got lost in shipping and he immediately bought me new stuff! http://www.homestead.com/s30z/files/otherv8z.htm Look in the mags as someone mentioned. I have a 2 part article from Chevy Hipo Magazine Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Yeah, I was thinking about this when I was putting in my power windows. I wish the door was a 2 piece thing that could be bolted back together. Other than cutting it open and welding it back shut, I can't think of any alternative besides door bars on a roll cage. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

"From: Where you least expect me" ...thats funny as hell! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I think you're gonna need the coilovers. Mine are 245/55/16 10" wheel width. Don't know what the offset is. http://www.homestead.com/s30z/files/smyz080800-05.jpg They don't stick out that far but of course I have the coilovers. I will use flares though. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html [This message has been edited by Owen (edited March 12, 2001).]

Thanks Ross, That's what I thought, especially since I'm strapped for cash. I'm waiting to see what happens with the R230s as well as what kinda diff is in the new Z. Thanks again everyone. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Hi, When I finally get around to starting the engine for the first time, I know it is best to pre-lube the engine with oil. But should I build up pressure in the fuel lines as well? Naturally the fuel tank, pump, lines, etc. are all empty. I read somewhere that air in the fuel line caused by cavitation in the gas tank can possible damage the injectors or the engine. Wouldn't that mean upon first start, since the fuel lines are empty, there could be a danger of damaging the engine? Thanks, Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I just called right now, 11:50 PST and there are still 4 left. Would it be best for me to grab one of these and do what Pete is doing, or just wait or get a used R200 non-LSD for around 50 bucks? What if I get a used one and then swap in LSD parts, is this possible. Really strapped on cash... Owen

OMIGOD what a sleeper! Owen

What video file with audio isnt huge? I could decrease the size to real small but you'd lose a lot of the detail. I'm talking full length movies here, maybe take up 2 cdrs in mpeg format. Problem with this is not everyone has a DVD player, including me. Currently the files are in DV format, Type 2, and the resolution is 720 x 480. How's this? We divide into regions like DVD and I send one copy to each region to dub and share on their own. That way I don't get busted by the wife for tying up the VCRs. ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Well, I was just kidding about the money. Seriously, the quality aint all that good for the first movie and the remake is ok. Just send me a blank tape and a prepaid envelope to send it back. On another note, I do have just the race scenes on computer (just the good stuff, right Hoover?), cut out all the love story and drama of life crap. I do have the capability to encode to CDR with Divx or MPEG2, but wouldnt you rather have it on tape so you can crank up the sound on your TV? CDRW drives been kinda buggy lately though... Email me with what you want, tape or cdr, and i'll email you my address. Owen v8z@earthlink.net ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Do a search on the net, I've seen at least 3 blown LT-1s in magazines. I think some guy used Skulte designs for his engine...can't remember any of the links though. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

About the movie, I doubt it is for sale, if you find it, just dub it. I'm reluctant to volunteer to make copies, it'll take a hell of a lot of time and the quality won't be that good. Exactly how many people want this? And how much would you pay??? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

I couldnt see the picture again for some reason...but they looked like 16inch 9J or 10J wheels. I've only seen them on one Z here in SoCal, and that was over 5 years ago. I'm sure you can find them in Japan, isn't one of our members over there now? You might have to ask for them by the name of "lon shan", thats how the name for these are abbreviated over there. I "think" they are made by SSR. Check out Carboy or Auto Works magazines (Japanese) Mike Kelly, I say you go with the bondo on flares, cuz I have the bolt ons I brought mine onto the plane coming back from Japan only to find out MSA carries them now! I think mine are still a little different. They are the 240ZG style, BTW. Some other LongChamp wheels, I like the 4ZKai, almost like Precedios. http://www.cisnet.or.jp/home/aoki/sub2.htm Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Too ricey for me...an I'm Asian!Hah! I dunno, those diagonal lines on the bottom spoiler just clash with the vertical lines under the hood line. Just my opinion. I prefer the fiberglass bumper MSA sells. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

They're called Long Champs, been around for a while. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

FYI, Intellitronix has an electrical fuel pressure gauge (Summit Racing) it doesn't need an isolator and the one I have for EFI goes up to 100psi. It does require a separate sender so don't forget to order it like I did. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

You only have to be careful not to add any air or water, just like any hydraulic system. So I would still use it, I'm just wondering what it would do to my Tilton which says DOT3 only. I'm a little worried about the build-up mentioned, though. My brake lines underneath the car are stock still. The new DOT5.1 is supposedly an improvement of DOT4, but I don't know if it's available. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

some info i found about air or water in the system DOT 5 in its pure state offers a higher boiling point (500F) however if water got into the system, and a big globule found its way into a caliper, the water would start to boil at 212F causing a vapor lock condition Silicone fluids also exhibit a 3 times greater propensity to dissolve air and other gasses which can lead to a "spongy pedal" and reduced braking at high altitudes. From a lubricity standpoint, neither fluids are outstanding, though silicones will exhibit a more stable viscosity index in extreme temperatures. Neither fluids will reduce stopping distances. Stolen from the Airheads BMW Club newsletter - July 1995 Battle of the DOTs DOT 3-4 Verses DOT 5. Which brake fluid should I use? From Oak Okleshen #35 "With regards to the DOT 3-4 verses DOT 5 brake fluid controversy, here is an article sent to me by Mr. Steve Wall. It is one of the most professional treatments I have seen on the subject". [i had to condense this article from 6 pages to 1 due to space limitations -ed] Brake Fluid Facts by Steve Wall As a former materials engineering supervisor at a major automotive brake system supplier, I feel both qualified and obligated to inject some material science facts into the murky debate about DOT 5 verses DOT 3-4 brake fluids. The important technical issues governing the use of a particular specification brake fluid are as follows: Fluid compatibility with the brake system rubber, plastic and metal components. Water absorption and corrosion. Fluid boiling point and other physical characteristics. Brake system contamination and sludging. Additionally, some technical comments will be made about the new brake fluid formulations appearing on the scene. First of all, it's important to understand the chemical nature of brake fluid. DOT 3 brake fluids are mixtures of glycols and glycol ethers. DOT 4 contains borate esters in addition to what is contained in DOT 3. These brake fluids are somewhat similar to automotive anti-freeze (ethylene glycol) and are not, as Dr. Curve implies, a petroleum fluid. DOT 5 is silicone chemistry. Fluid Compatibility Brake system materials must be compatible with the system fluid. Compatibility is determined by chemistry, and no amount of advertising, wishful thinking or rationalizing can change the science of chemical compatibility. Both DOT 3-4 and DOT 5 fluids are compatible with most brake system materials except in the case some silicone rubber external components such as caliper piston boots, which are attacked by silicon fluids and greases. Water absorption and corrosion The big bugaboo with DOT 3-4 fluids always cited by silicone fluid advocates is water absorption. DOT 3-4 glycol based fluids, just like ethylene glycol antifreezes, are readily miscible with water. Long term brake system water content tends to reach a maximum of about 3%, which is readily handled by the corrosion inhibitors in the brake fluid formulation. Since the inhibitors are gradually depleted as they do their job, glycol brake fluid, just like anti-freeze, needs to be changed periodically. Follow BMW's recommendations. DOT 5 fluids, not being water miscible, must rely on the silicone (with some corrosion inhibitors) as a barrier film to control corrosion. Water is not absorbed by silicone as in the case of DOT 3-4 fluids, and will remain as a separate globule sinking to the lowest point in the brake system, since it is more dense. Fluid boiling point DOT 4 glycol based fluid has a higher boiling point (446F) than DOT 3 (401F), and both fluids will exhibit a reduced boiling point as water content increases. DOT 5 in its pure state offers a higher boiling point (500F) however if water got into the system, and a big globule found its way into a caliper, the water would start to boil at 212F causing a vapor lock condition [possible brake failure -ed.]. By contrast, DOT 3 fluid with 3% water content would still exhibit a boiling point of 300F. Silicone fluids also exhibit a 3 times greater propensity to dissolve air and other gasses which can lead to a "spongy pedal" and reduced braking at high altitudes. DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids are mutually compatible, the major disadvantage of such a mix being a lowered boiling point. In an emergency, it'll do. Silicone fluid will not mix, but will float on top. From a lubricity standpoint, neither fluids are outstanding, though silicones will exhibit a more stable viscosity index in extreme temperatures, which is why the US Army likes silicone fluids. Since few of us ride at temperatures very much below freezing, let alone at 40 below zero, silicone's low temperature advantage won't be apparent. Neither fluids will reduce stopping distances. With the advent of ABS systems, the limitations of existing brake fluids have been recognized and the brake fluid manufacturers have been working on formulations with enhanced properties. However, the chosen direction has not been silicone. The only major user of silicone is the US Army. It has recently asked the SAE about a procedure for converting from silicon back to DOT 3-4. If they ever decide to switch, silicone brake fluid will go the way of leaded gas. Brake system contamination The single most common brake system failure caused by a contaminant is swelling of the rubber components (piston seals etc.) due to the introduction of petroleum based products (motor oil, power steering fluid, mineral oil etc.) A small amount is enough to do major damage. Flushing with mineral spirits is enough to cause a complete system failure in a short time. I suspect this is what has happened when some BMW owners changed to DOT 5 (and then assumed that silicone caused the problem). Flushing with alcohol also causes problems. BMW brake systems should be flushed only with DOT 3 or 4. If silicone is introduced into an older brake system, the silicone will latch unto the sludge generated by gradual component deterioration and create a gelatin like goop which will attract more crud and eventually plug up metering orifices or cause pistons to stick. If you have already changed to DOT 5, don't compound your initial mistake and change back. Silicone is very tenacious stuff and you will never get it all out of your system. Just change the fluid regularly. For those who race using silicone fluid, I recommend that you crack the bleed screws before each racing session to insure that there is no water in the calipers. for what its worth...note, dont believe it just cuz its on the internet! Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Yeah sure, make me the guinea pig and have my tranny blow up all over the street! I did check a little on the internet and some companies were using DOT 5. I'll check some more. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

"Man, if it says DOT 3, why not just use it?" ***Mainly because DOT-5 is supposed to be better for brakes. So I figure why not for the clutch hydraulics too? Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html

Hi all, I have the Tilton master cylinder unit for use with my T56. It says Dot 3 only, is there any problem with using Dot5 instead? I dont want some kinda seal being eaten up etc. Also, I'm assuming I should flush the thing completely. Any tips on that? Thanks. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html