savageskaterkid

well, i will probly be in Wethersfield next week, my cousins live there, but I won't have the Z.

I actually found an older trans am, about 89 for 300 dollars, and its a 5 speed, which is what I really want, but the guy never got back to me. I did found out about some public auctions near me, that I hope to find a full donor car for fairly cheap.

thanks for the wisdom, i do plan to read the manual front to back, then back to front. The LT1 is a favorite motor of mine, I have a few buddys with them in z28s and a formula firebird. But the motor now is only gonna be temporary, so I do not wanna spend the bucks on an LT1, for I will be swapping the motor within a few months.

Thanks everyone in this forum, for I have finally givin up with the L28 and moving onto the SBC. I have ordered the JTR manual and should have it soon. I do have a question though, what would be the best STOCK variation of the SBC for the 280z. I know the 350's are a dime a dozen, and theres plenty of parts at every single parts store. But what is the best SBC to start with, budget wise. Not so much as the cheapest block, but which ones will last longest such as not explode my rear, snap a driveshaft, or destroy my wallet. I plan on building a 302(chevy), 327, or 383 soon, Probly as fall starts, but I plan on swapping to an SBC before the Fall. I DO NOT want anything crazy, just a fine running motor that doesn't leak. No performance parts on this one. I understand that the Z's tend to break the tires loose quite easily, so would a smaller displacement motor like a 305 be best? I plan on upgrading the drivetrain later, but for now just want a reliable driver, so I don't want too much torque. I know variations of this question have been asked such as "Best engine for the stip or street" I mean it as, which variation of the SBC is reliable enough that it will run well for a few months, without me having to fix it, other then to tune the carberator every now and then.

I heard about the BMW, but wasn't it a TT Big Block Chevy in it. And didn't the guy end up getting it de-tuned or something, because it was TOO powerful, and he'd break the tires loose at 100+?

This whole ordeal has pissed me off for the last time, next week I get the mounts and manual, and in a few weeks, i'm goin to the bright side-getting a 327 and hopefully a T5

trust me when I say I was a bit scepticle about hearing 4K rpm. I heard that if you put a turbo on the N/a motor, you have to make an N/a-turbo afm hybrid, if not it would limit to 4K rpm. I thought it was a bit far fectched too, but I decided to go try it, sure enough, it pretty much sits at 4K with my foot slammed to the floor. It wasn't me who discovered it, so its not my ignition thats crappy, its everyone who turbos an N/a.

what setup were you running?

When I looked for them, everyone wanted about 75 dollars a piece. At Advanced Auto Parts it was 35 a piece.

Sounds good, I actually have both AFMs here, I actually scored the turbo AFM for 15 bucks shipped. I don't plan to have any hp gains with this setup. But I was told, on more then one occasion, that I need this setup on my N/A-t if not it will not revv past 4 grand. I verifyed this too.

I take place in this "freestyle walking"-have never heard that term before, but I'm on the other coast, so it may be a slang word or something for it. Its actually called Le Parkour, and its quite popular in France and such. It has started to spread on the west coast, nobody really does it over here, but I like to at times, takes your mind off things. http://www.klimo.net/parkour/vids/hopphopp.wmv Think of it more as "Extreme Gymnastics" if anything, mixed with BIG-CAJONES syndrom.

This may be a stupid question, but is the Cressida AFM swap similar to doing the Turbo Z swap?

well, I messed up quite a bit today. I think I found out that my turbo seals are bad-go figure. And I decided to mess with the idle speed and fuel pressure. Now I don't really know where to start with what to do next. It sounds like its running great. But when its under load, it all goes to hell. I really have to slip the clutch to get it to move, I mean like barely engadge the clutch at all. It has a horrible miss and hesitation. I know that a bad AFM can cause similar symptoms, but would the NA AFM cause this to happen on the turbo'd motor? I plan on swapping the guts, but I wanna get it drivable before I even think about getting it past 4K rpm.

I've searched and found nothing but a dead link, could someone please give me a link to this swap? On an N/A turbo car, the stock AFM won't allow the motor to revv past 4000rpm, so you have to swap the guts. Can someone give me a link or explain the process. It doesn't sound hard, but I don't wanna be the one to do the wrong thing and mess it up.

i tried that method earlier today, and to no avail. But I did find a couple solutions, after driving 2-3 miles tday, horrible ride btw. Turns out my AFM was dissconnected for one, which seems odd that it would run even that good without the AFM, whereas before without the AFM it would hardly run. It also seems, that with the help of propane, that I have a leak at the throttle body somwhere.

Its a huge posiblity that we use more fuel then the garbage we can refine, but is that REALLY a big deal, worse case scenario-we run out of garbage. More space, less stink, were all happy. As long as it doesn't make a big cloud of smoke that doesn't seem to go away.

I read that, and it seems like a great idea, use the stuff from the landfills though. The junkyards are more then useful on most older vehicles. Lets do it.

any ideas?

You did help, but he was an A$$ to BrandonsZ so I thought I'd say something. Didn't mean anything by saying nobody helped, it was just the best way to get attention to the link.

Well, the N/a Turbo is finnally back on the road again, kinda. I just got some minor work done to it. They tell me my intake gasket is blown, woudn't really suprise me. But the thing that I wonder about is the fact that it ran like crap on my way from the shop back to work-about 2 blocks. It wouldn't pass about 2000 or 2500rpms in any gear. Once I got it back to work, it revved nice all the way upto 4000rpms where it cuts out(read non Turbo AFM). The motor feels like its missin really bad, but once i was at work, and randomly moving things, it would run awesome, but later on it ran like crap again. Anybody have some sort of idea? I can see the fact that I'm blowing the boost out of the intake gasket-makes sence, but it works great every now and then?

HURRAY, Garrett is back

holden makes a 383? Or is it a 350 stroker motor like our 383?

Was this a personal attack at me? Just in case you didn't pay attention (which I don't think you did)-my motor never blew, I popped a hose, that is all.

so you narrowed it down to the fan? What did you top the radiator off with? Straight water, 50/50 mixed coolant?....ect? I don't believe the pressure exerted from a radiator car will help straight water, if anything, I'm pretty sure it causes water to boil faster. Perfectly mixed coolant isn't sufficiant enough either. Its the pressure+coolant=sufficient cooling. For every PSI on coolant, it raises the boiling temperature by a certain degree. Make sure that your coolant is pre-mixed right.