savageskaterkid

I have 2 ideas, the first, alot of people are gonna completly disagree with me, but this is just a test, not a fix. TEST Take out the thermostat. Drive without it, if that fixes the problem, then you may need a new thermostat. You may be like me, they way that you goto advanced auto parts or such places to buy most things? If so, I've see people buy a thermostat from Autozone, and they crap out within a week. Sometimes the quality is crap, sometimes its good, its the luck of the draw. Are you sure your gauge is right? I had a wiring problem one time on my ZX, that it would say I was overheating when the motor was just at operating temperature. At times it would even "overheat" by the time I got out of my nieghborhood, about 1/2 mile.

Similar incident. 5 yellow jacket stings. We used to have woods in my backyard. And I was walking my dog......We don't have woods anymore.

I actually have no access to the car now, its all in the mechanics hands. But today I was told that the pressure the pump was putting out was 100psi, and all that is needed is 40psi. Now my question is how can the car run when cold at that much pressure, but not when it warms up? They ordered an FPR for me, I need one anyway, so its not a loss to me. Would the 100psi cause the car to run really rich when it warms up, and act as though its getting no gas at all?

Everything worked with the stock pump, it just wasn't very adequate for the turbo, the injectors all pulse and the car revvs fine, but once it warms up, thats it. I haven't tuned the pressure just yet.

Thoughts I'd help you out a bit. Nobody else seems to be. This will help you out. http://forums.hybridz.org/announcement.php?f=75&a=2 4. This site is based in the USA, and as such, text is to be written in English. There are web sites available on the web that can translate text from many recognized official languages to English, if you don't know it. (But then how could you read this? ) Gangster-slang, or any other cute, obtuse, street-talk dialects are not tolerated. Write in clear English that does not require a current knowledge of the latest street-slang.

still stuck with her......j/k, kinda, I am still with her, its only been close to a year, but then again, I'm a kid, so thats forever. About 1/20th of my life.

I run without an exhaust, and it is quite loud, and fumey. Plan on building an exhaust system later, because sumthin tells me that even the L28e(t) will start to bother me.

A couple weeks ago I decided to take my car to a mechanic to get some leaks fixed and see if they can figure out my problem for why the car runs while warming up but dies when its at operating temps. I got the leaks fixed already(the PITA leaks that are more of an annoyance then hard to fix). But my running problem is bugging them too. They were trying to convince me that the pump I am using is worse then the N/a Z pump. The MSD 2225 isn't the best, but I would highly doubt it is inferior to the Z's stock pump. After I convinced them that its a better pump, they thought it may be the wiring. Now, i've been f'ed by mechanics who thought it was this, then thought it was that........and it turned out to be the thing I told them to fix in the first place-although many, many dollars later. The real question is, could the stock fuel pump relay and wiring cause the MSD to drop fuel pressure after warmup? After warmup the return line needs to be clamped shut basicly for it to continue to run.

Ummmm...Without a downpipe, its impossible to connect the turbo to the muffler. Y not just get a 90' elbow, and run no pipes at all?

Well, its chain drivin? Is that the hint?

Happy BDay Mike Kelly and Mike KZ

I too agree with Mr. Insane. MR2's are deffinitly fun cars. The older ones can be had for cheap, but a newer one in turbo trim sounds apealing in your price range. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1991-Toyota-MR2-Turbo-Red-T-Tops-Immaculate-New-Tbelt_W0QQitemZ290005257462QQihZ019QQcategoryZ15289QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem The only thing I see that doesn't fit your bill, is the manual.

I've found quite a few places that will sell the bends and straight pipe. The real question is how much pipe should I buy?

I knew the answer to this like a month ago. I saw one on ebay too. It was a motor in the 50's I recall, it was basicly just 2 chevy V-6 engines joined at the crank. It went into alot of farm equiptment hence the farm background.

I think its more or less aimed at the Zcar.com guys for there stock restorations...

What about a Mazda B2600i? There not really a mini-truck, there decently sized. I used to have one and they are very fun in stock form. With the 2.6 liter engine it would light the tires up and slide corners very easily. I would accidently spin the tires every now and then(yes-accidently) Most of the time it was purposly though. There are a few of them with turbo rotary motors in them too. The 13b? bolts right upto the stock 5 speed, I looked into going rotary with it but got rid of it. I will deffinitly be getting another one soon. Like this- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mazda-B-Series-Pickups-Mazda-B2600i-4-X-4_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6317QQihZ014QQitemZ330002734516QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW A few also put in Chevy small blocks, there may even be a kit for it if I recall.

I think the time has come where I need an exhaust, the turbo elbow just isn't cutting it-too much fumes, and too many cops in my area now. I am gonna make my own down pipe, and full exhaust. I will be using mild steel tubing and some U-bends. I will make the flange for the downpipe and then start from there. What I need to know is how much tubing should I buy? This is for an L28(t) equiped S30(280-if that matters). And does anybody know where I can buy tubing online for a decent price? Most places only sell stainless, I want mild steel, the welder i'll be using is just the basic mig, and afaik it will not weld stainless.

Amazing video, car sounds great. Love that color too, very uniformly done. I too plan on goin flat black.

I've had this problem many a time on a ZX. The first thing it was the GM HEI ignition I used would heat up and cause it to die at low RPMs, like less then 2000rpm, unless I gave it a rev and just threw it into drive-it would die. I ended up bolting the module to a piece of aluminum, then mounting it behind the headlight. The second cause was a bad ground, but that would happen only if I took a hard right turn, not left. ONLY RIGHT. I highly doubt this is your problem though, seeing as how its on the highway and I don't think you'd be making a hard right turn.

Maybe this is the buyer of bastaads car? And hes selling it now? But I would guess unlikely, just because ebay pulled the auction.

awesome, so when is the next shindig at the new house?

all GN's were turboed, you may be thinkin of a GNX, which is ultra rare.

NOOOO, don't make a modern version, they don't modernize, the give an old name to another car that barely resembles the original. I.E GTO, Charger Although these are pretty cool, it takes away from the name.

I think its sexy lookin

going to UNO next year and taking high-performance engineering. Gonna build race cars.