savageskaterkid

Pinks came to are somewhat local track last week. My friends uncle was gonna race. A few people didn't show up, and nobody else manned up to the race. Soooooooo.....Nate decided to race him. Bottom line, my friends uncle is a new owner of a mustang.

I have heard of using stainless injectors, where to find them you ask-well, i'm not quite sure. This would be anything BUT a daily driver, only used to actually drive to and from the track. Maybe for a few cruise-ins, thats it.

Hmmm, didn't even look into the road tax thing at all, I'll deffinitly lookin into it a bit more though. Garrett, I don't mean methanol injection in small amounts, I mean to run a straight methonal instead of gasoline.

My boss will sell me methonal for 1.90 a gallon, but its off-road methonal. Its kind of like off-road diesel. Its really cheap, but thats because you don't pay taxes on it. If you want to use it for the street you have to goto a station that sells methanol with the DOT taxes and such, and you get taxed HARD for it. Its 5.75 a gallon to buy a street-legal methanol. My dillema is the fact that I don't have a trailer and need to drive to the track, my boss will not sell to anybody with license plates on the car, hes just covering his ass and I understand that. I also heard that C16 is like 4.75 around here, so thats not too bad, I may just use premium on the street and C16 at the track then.

It seemed like a good idea, up untill today when I brought it up to my boss. He sells meth for about 1.90 a gallon-sounds really good, WELL ITS TRUE. Except thats for off-road meth. I plan on running it on the street, mostly just to get to the track. But to get meth thats street legal is like 5.75 a gallon now. Doesn't seem worth it anymore.

I am in the process of buying a MSnS extra computer and wiring harness from a fellow Z friend, and I plan to set it up to run methanol. I know that methonal has a diffrent A:F ratio then gasoline, what is it, so I can tune for that. What is the ideal compression to run methonal at? Would a regular wideband O2 work, or would I have to find one specifically for alcohal? Since it burns cooler, should I use a diffrent temp sensor? or should I just program the ECU for colder temps?

Shes in the red

Ignition control module, sorry bout the short and not too the point post, I was in class. I had the same thing happen to me, you may have fried the I/C in such a way that it will start, but wont run. Try this, start it, but rev it till its about 2000-2500 rpms, will it still run? If you throw it in drive, or drop the clutch, does it still run as long as you keep the RPMs up? I put on a new I/C control unit, and it ran great, till the car warmed up. Once it warmed up, it would cut out under 2000 rpms, it would stop the spark, but in the upper RPMs, it was fine. I heat-sinked it to the fender and it ran great. You may have fried the I/C in such a way that its giving these symptoms to your car.

Your I/c module is bad, it got too hot, same thing happened on my ZX

to apply or not to apply

sounds like my gaskets from MSA, my parents just put it in the garage and never told me till I saw a big box that said MSA

Good call, scratch that, we don't need one less Z and member. Try this then, look at your fuel hose that goes to the fuel rail(this is the one comming off the fuel filter) and disconnect it from the fuel rail(big metal loop that goes above the motor) Put the end of it in a soda bottle or some other container and try and start the car for a couple cranks. Now look in the bottle, is there gas? If so you have fuel-skip to the next step. If not, follow the same fuel line under the car till you find the fuel pump(big piece of metal-it will have wires comming from it.) Hook a wire from the positive lead to the positive lead on the battery-does it make noise? Is there fuel in the soda bottle now? If not, maybe you used the wrong lead, try again, but with the other lead. There should be fuel in the bottle now-if not then you have a bad pump, or a connection disconnected. If you succesfully jumped the pump and got fuel in the bottle, reconnect the hose and try starting the car again. Sometimes if my car sits my fuel pump stops working and I have to jump it to get it going. If you have fuel but it still doesn't start it could be your injectors and such, but that doesn't seem right, just because of the fact it was running a week ago-and injectors usually don't fail all at once, you can still usually run a Z on 4 or 5 cylinders, I've done it(spark plug boots slipped off) May even be a Fuel pressure regulator problem, I've gone through about 6 between 2 Zs. To test that, get some vice-grip pliers and clamp the return line, which is the one next to the filter(not too tight, if you have to force it shut, thats too tight) Try to start it yet again. I do not mean to put you down by writing this post like an idiot, but you stated you have no car knowledge so I'm trying to make it simple for you. btw....veritech-z I screwed up the wording of my post, I meant it more as an electrical problem causing a fuel problem. Such as the electric fuel pump-I messed up the thought. Sorry for the mis-write.

You have a neutral safety switch? 1st gen Z's didn't come stock with them, or thats the consensus of a post I started a while back. Yet again, everytime I mention this, I get flamed for it, but spray starter fluid in the intake, then go start the car, DO NOT SPRAY WHILE ITS RUNNING-trust me. If this starts it, then its a fuel related problem.

I considered that, but he also messed with the pump drive and distributor, so it could be off as well. If you use the valves as a guide, then you can use that reference to set the pump drive and rotor facing the number one plug. This should give you a 0* timing. From there you should be able to retard it a few degrees by turning the distributor housing. This sounds as though it would work, I have niether done this or have a reason to, but in theory it should work. Tell me if I'm wrong or not though.

not always true, in a 4 stroke motor, the crank makes 2 full revolutions meaning that the number 1 piston could be at TDC just before the power stroke or at the top just after the exhaust stroke. Take off your valve cover and look at the number 1 cylinders valves, then set it to TDC, if both valves are closed-then its TDC, if not turn the motor till it comes back up with both valves closed.

If you blow the lines out, make sure that you disconnect the rubber hose in the engine compart ment that goes to the fuel filter-or you could blow all that gunk right into your injectors. Just because the pump makes noise doesn't mean its working-make sure its pumping gas out of the pump. It will still make noise if its running in reverse.

I believe you lube them so they don't sqeek.

Any ideas or suggestions.

I've searched nicoclub.com and it seems like i'm the first to ever have this problem on a sentra, but every Q45 on there has it. My A/c only blows on high, blower resistor, right? Thats what it is on the Q45, but I'd like to make sure before I waste money on something I'm not gonna use. This is my daily driver, and having the A/c on high gets quite annoying.

If you plan on spending the big bucks for this conversion, why do you plan on using the P79 when you can source a p90 fairly easily online, or even an N42 which is what i'm using, and it does work well off boost. Its a good idea to look into the search. I've done a few topics about this and so have a few others. I have no idea how you plan to run a header AND downpipe with a turbo, but tell me how it works. Most on here don't use monza stuff, its been said that its crap from alot of people.

I have a brand new MSD pump and if I let it sit for a few days or more, I have to jump the pump, then it works fine. Just hook the positive terminal to a wire and touch it to the battery and let it prime for a few seconds. Then take it off and start the car.

that too is a good idea. The basic concensis of the z is that the intake-exhaust manifold gasket didn't seal right, and it turned out to be a broken bolt that looked to be in place(untill I turned it and it spun)-so I have to take all that apart-hopefully just use an extractor and get all new hardware. I do not want to do this right now though. I just got an old sentra filling Daily driver duties, so I have all the time in the world for the Z. If I were to fix the problem(I have the gasket in the garage)I would need to put the manifolds back on along with the turbo. The seals in my turbo are bad and I plan on using a diffrent turbo. Its hard tightening the turbo bolts in car, and taking off the manifold again to put a diffrent turbo on seems to be a waste since I'm not driving it at all. And I also found 2 people trying to sell me turbos(I'll leave them nameless now for reasons)-one is a low-mile stocker, and the other is a holset-not sure which to use though(budget) Sorry, had to rant a bit, been thinkin about this for a week and haven't figured out what route to go yet-I wanna stay L-series for now. But idk if I wanna do N/a-tripple carbs(expensive) or turbo.

Just Z, but I want people to look at it more then just the letter Z. Z would be cool, but it doesn't really bring any attention to itself-the emblem has a beutiful car to bring attention to it, the emblem should have an amazing design. Here it is.

I'm not a huge fan of tribals either, but it just flows with the idea on this one. My scanner isn't hooked up at the moment, and it was just a sketch, nothing worth getting the scanner hooked up for-he wants me to think about the design for a bit and tweak and add to it abit before he does. And when I have the idea set I go and pay for the outline or real drawing and that goes towards the price of the tattoo itself. But I'm photoshopping my idea now, and I'll upload it when its done.