savageskaterkid

Everything is PERFECT!!!! My gas gauge wasn't working, becuz i had less then a quarter tank, i figured this out when i put sum gas in, and my top gauge worked, then after driving around-it went to a quarter, then dropped, and then my bottem gas gauge started working, is this normal? Tday i rewired the car cuz of the tach jumping, it did fine for a long time, until it died on the way home-about 2 miles from home, pulled into a nieghborhood and my coil was on fire(so damn hott)-i have a firebird coil in it, and its much slimmer then the Datsun piece-well, it put in the datsun piece, and its been running awesome since then, untill it was really hard to start(about 30 seconds of cranking)-i took off the FPR vaccum line, and it fires up easy, except that it shot alot of gas, wich was the reason i was having bad gas mileage-so i crimped the tip of the FRP vaccum line, so it wouldn't shoot anymore fuel. starts up so easy, Idles perfect(mayb jumps about 100RPM) best thing of all, the gas leak was probly the reason y my cruise control never worked, cuz after i fixed that, the cruise works now. The car doesn't overheat either, everything is PERFECT. BTW, the leak did come from that one hose that runs rite above the intake, i just tightened the clamp, and no more problems. Thanks for all the help everyone

if you can PM me the pictures of the module-close enough to where i can see the numbers, i can easily tell u the connections that you need to make, or Email them to me Savageskaterkid@yahoo.com

I also noticed that my second gas gauge works, u know the one rite underneath the real gas gauge, it reads 1/4 tank, 1/8 tank, and so on. I have a bit less then a quarter of a tank, so i know im not out of gas, so that rules it out.

well, i remounted the Module, its rite behind the left headlight, and its heat-sunk to a piece of aluminum, i used a buttload of the heat sink compound, it runs cool now, and it was running great, it idled fine for 20 minuts, got it upto operating temperature, then took it for a 2 mile ride, turned the car off, hung out with a frend for 10 minuts. It took a bit of gas for it to get started back up again, and then it ran fine. About 4 blocks from home, the tach started jumping-it wasn't revving or anything, but the tach kept going back up and down, and then it shut off, i started it back up easily, and then it went smooth untill i backed into my driveway, and at the very bottem of the driveway it cut off, but it started back up, and once i got it to my parking spot, it shut off on its own. I remember my tach jumped when i first mounted the module to the dizzy, cuz i had to figure out where the old wiring to the coil hooked up, and the tach would jump-then cut off, i found out where the wiring went and put it together and it ran fine. When me and my dad hooked that up, we didn't have any of the rite connectors-so we kinda rigged it up by wrapping it around the coil and tightening the nut down. Do you guys think this ghetto-rigged connection could make it so my car is cutting off? Remounting the ignition seems like it helped a whole lot. Idled for about half an hour, then took a 4 mile round trip.

when i look i see nuthing, its when i turn away and don't pay attention for a split second that everything happens, i don't see where any lines are wet from leaking.

the puddle is actually rite between the number 1 and 2 injectors, rite ontop of the intake manifold....i tightened up the upper-radiator hose, im gonna see if that keeps it from shooting at all. Do u think the throttlebody coolant line could squirt coolant at the intake?

thanks, i'll hopefully do this tday, and keep you guys updated.

That coolant that puddled near the injectors is back! it seems that it is comming from one of those plugs on the intake manifold-does coolant even flow to the intake? I have a seperate intake and throttle body that im thinking of swapping in this weekend. Should i do this, or look at that plug thing a bit more?

Is this the heat-sink you speak of, im hopefully gonna get one tday.....so i need to know sumwht quickly/ http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=276-1368

yah, my automatic tranny is on its way out of the car any day now, i can feel the thing acting up, same with the engine-and i think im gonna convert it to a 5 speed. Will it b any easier to do this then the average Auto-manual swap, or will it b the same?

search???

my car will run for awhile b4 it dies, so i felt comfortable enough to take a few runs around the corner, about 1/4 mile later, the car starts to heat up, it gets to halfway, so i still drive a bit more, then it heats up alot more, so i slow down to a stop, and after a second it went back to the halfway mark. My dad says it mite b that its an old thermastat and the spring inside is sticking, and eventually it will open-and thats y it cools down. Does this make sence to anyone else? and im still wondering about my HEI

hmmmm, idk y it did that, but i know for a fact, that most of the time when i unplug that line it runs much smoother.

ok, that mite b it....i think i have a small contact, would that cause spark problems when it got warm? I thought it was dielectric grease, but it just came with a clear grease.

Well, it just idles low for a split second, then dies, start it up-idles for a quarter second, then dies-if i hit the gas, and hold a revv about 2K, then it will stay running. Oil pressure is great, no smoke from exhaust. I used dielectric-grease inbetween the dizzy and the module. Yes it is the HEI. The coil mite make a bit of sence, im not running the stock coil, i thought i lost it, but its actually in my backseat, im gonna reinstall it afterschool tommorrow, im using a 1969 Firebird coil that a frend gave me. Do you really think it could b the coil? i sure hope so, cuz i got one thats fairly new, and i thought it died cuz it wouldn't fire anymore(cuz of the I/C module)

Wht does it take to make my Z capable of working with a manual Tranny. Its a 3-speed automatic, in an 81 280ZX. Theres a catch with this swap though, my car came with a manual, but the PO switched it out for an Auto, wht would the diffrences in this swap b?

well, i ruled out that thought, it ran great, i let it idle for like 20-30 minuts, and it was doin great, then i was about to get in the car....and it died. I have my new Ignition box mounted on a piece of metal, actually, its mounted where the old box was-on the distributor. What do u mean Heat Sunk?

i have it bolted up already.....i think my problem was, my reserve overflowed, and it ended up soaking my injectors, so i had coolant puddled up next to the injectors, so when the engine heated up-it boiled the coolant, and steamed up and shorted the injector wires-but its running fine now, im idleing it as we speak to make sure it won't happen again.

i know this as a fact, but i've been thinkin RB for quite awhile, and this was the thing that made the chubby for an RB that much bigger.....i plan on fixing the L28 anyway, but soon after im goin RB, probly start this summer. The L28 does test your patience quite a bit, i agree with that, i've had ALL the common and uncommon L28 problems

im quite scared of the fact that i may have a leaking BLOCK(i sure hope not) Actually, thats about wht happened to mine, coolant puddled up, and once it got hot, it would boil and smoke pours out the engine, and it boils next to the injectors......so i guess it steamed my injector connections? Well, all i hafta say about these engine, and soon to b tranny problems........RB25DET-HERE I COME

well, i went to see my car tday, and i checked everything out, everything was dry, so i tryed to start it, and it fired rite up. Drove about halfway home and the thing died at a stoplight(about 2 miles from where i was, and about 2 miles from where i needed to -i got it to the foodlion parking lot, and popped the hood. my injectors had coolant on them again........but my talking lady said that i was low on coolant cuz it spewed it all out last nite-and i looked to see where it fired from, the reserve was dry again, like it always is when i look in there, and the underside of the hood was dry, wich means it didn't fire coolant anywhere, i didn't see any visible coolant leaks, wht do u guys think happened?

Well, i got the Corvette Ignition control, after playing with the wiring for awhile, it fired up and idled pretty good. Well, im halfway down 301-(its kinda like a highway) and it dies at a stoplight, and wouldn't start back up, so i revved the hell out of it, and put it in drive, and took off, i had to keep doin this over and over till i got home. It wasn't too bad, untill it died while cruising, so i put it in nuetral and started it, revved it up, and put it in reverse(i dont have the gear selector panel installed) yah, well, i hit reverse....imagine a 280zx going sideways on a highway, so i slammed it back into nuetral and then into drive. I had to do like a 20 minut drive, then about 5 minuts from home my REV HIGH, THEN DRIVE trick stopped working, so i had to push it into a church parking lot-wich is WAY BETTER then being in the middle of richmond in a school parking lot. Well, i popped the hood, and coolant sprayed everywhere, it was puddled next to the number 3 and 4 injectors. Which brings me to my next question, could coolant have shorted out my number 3 and 4 injectors and keep them from firing, wich is y my car won't stay running unless its revved past 2000? Do you think that i can just clean up the connections and get them to work after it cools down, or do u think i fried my injectors? GIVE IT TO ME STRAIGHT, I WANNA KNOW THE TRUTH Thanx guys

nvm, after looking a bit more i found out that this could also b used on a 240Z, so im guessing there is no problems using it on a 6