savageskaterkid

hahahahhaha

is there anyway to get along w/o using autometer gauges, i plan on upgrading the gauges soon, but for rite now im just gonna do the BASIC SWAP, i don't wanna fall into the "while im at it" The only extra things im gonna do, is clean up the engine bay, mayb even repaint it, and im gonna put a downpipe and exhaust on it, thats it, everything else is stock-i dont wanna mess with anything else just yet.....im only gonna do what HAS TO BE done, like the oilpan and pickup for example.

or when u see a Mustang, or corvette, or any other sports car, you think "hey, i know of a guy who has that in there Z" Or wht about when a honda pulls up and revvs the buzz-bomb up, then u just tap the gas, and he stops revving his engine.......good thing he didn't try and race me, cuz i wouldn't wanna b the one to say i lost to a honda with a fartcan. BTW......81 ZX, with a 79 engine, and ignition for a 77 corvette.

well, get the dings and dents out as best you can, then just use plastic filler. After you do that, if your using fiberglass, this is wht i did with a honda i painted-wht u do is take the fiberglass off, and prime it with a primer made for fiberglass, then use scotchbright pads and an abrasive of around 2000(equivalent to a 2000 grit sandpaper, except its a liquid(you can get it at just about any paint store.....i use Chroma 2000)) Spray the fiberglass with the hose, then put sum of the abrasive on the scotchbrite pad, and goto town, do this untill the surface is smooth and dull. Then put the car together(if this is how u wanna paint it), and paint everything at once-as long as its primed, then the paint should stick, if you really wanna feel ripped off, you can paint the fiberglass with a SPECIAL fiberglass paint, and paint it with that....it may last longer, it may not-besides that, good luck getting the color to match.

did not and probly won't, i looked at it, i think its awesome, but its gonna need sum body work, its gonna need a new windshield, and its gonna need a new side view mirror. I don't mind the body work, its just time and effort rite now. My 280ZX has a much straighter body then that, and i was gonna pay for the new Z by selling the old one, and i haven't got it sold yet, i have a potential buyer, but the problem is that my car is still in the shop. I plan on doing an RB swap, and from wht i've looked into-it seems to b a bit easier to do the swap into the ZX, besides that, alot of the suspension stuff seems a bit easier to install.........all this mixed with a better steering setup-yah, seems like it would b a nice setup for an RB. Well, my car should b out of the shop in about a week and a half, or less(doubtfull)....so u could come by a give her a spin. PS. dont forget the supra...ahahahah

georgia is a bit of a ways away, evans georgia is like 7 hours away, i'd appreciate the help, but i dont think u'd b intrested in traveling that far.....if my engine isn't in the car, then the car won't make it 7 hours there either.

ok, with how my job is going, i will have the money saved up in about a month and a half, meaning i can start the swap around mid-july......and......heres the tricky part. IT HAS TO B DONE B4 SEZ! Im gonna do my best to bring the RB25 280ZX down to SEZ this year. This is just gonna b a bare bones swap, get the engine, and tranny in, get it running, and then i'll get the muffler shop to do my exhaust. Im gonna try not to fall into the "while im at it" catagory. Like i said, BARE BONES. Hopefully i will b going to SEZ this year, my parents are saying that they may not let me go, but its not gonna stop me from getting the Swap done before it. If they see how much i put into it to get there, they will prolly let me go. BTW...One of my best frends is gonna b helping with the swap, and doing an SR20 240SX swap at the same time, where both gonna do the swaps at around the same time.....it may help persuade the parents if i could bring a close family frend, would it b alright to bring him along, he doesn't have a Z, but its still a nissan.

hey bob88, i am too 16 yrs old, and on a 16 yr old budget.....doesn't stop me from playing with the car-like wheelman said, even 250 Hp in a Z is good, just put the stock engine in and drive it from there, it will b faster then ur used to, so it will seem like a rocket, then when u get used to it, u upgrade. This is exactly wht im doin, but diffrent, im gonna go with the RB25DET, but im gonna keep it stock, mostly.....i think i can get like 300HP at the wheels. Later on, im gonna get bored, so im thinkin about an LSD for the car, then after that, possibly a bigger turbo, and such things like that. BTW, G-force did stop making T-5's, Didn't Mikelly have a problem with this?

I have been told that there are a few ppl on this board that have 280ZX's with RB motors. Can i find out the names of sum of them, cuz i need to know about the swap. I've been told that with the SBC swap, that there is problems with the Power Steering, is this still true with the RB? What needs to b made to swap the engine and manual tranny into the ZX? More questions to come, i just have to think about it. one more, would anybody b willing to help with an engine swap later on this summer. Prefferably in central virginia.

well, to tell u the truth, sounds like a similar problem i had on my 81' N/a, one of quite a few probs i had. Sounds to me like u need a new dizzy cap and rotor. Mine would run, with A VERY BAD IDLE, and if i tilted the dizzy cap just right, it would run sumwht ok. Try this, if you can get it started, rev it slowly, it should take a while, but it should rev sumwht smooth......now let it idle again, slam the peddle to the floor as fast as u can, it will prolly cut off, this is exactly wht happend to me. I replaced the cap and rotor, and it ran like a new car, before that, i thought i had a blown head gasket, cuz it had no power, and was letting out white smoke......turns out it was just running really rich, after i replaced it, it was the best feeling in that car. Plus, u'll spend all of about 10-15 bux on this, even if it doesn't work, its money well spent. FWIW, i never had an AFM problem, so i can't quite agree with trouble on that one.......o crap, a problem i haven't had, great-another to look foward to.

well, i looked at the 280Z tday, the body isn't anywhere as great as mine on the ZX, niether is the interior, but i like how it has a holley 4 bbl carb, a header, and exhaust, and a hot cam.

thought so, but i actually have a line on a fully restored 78 i think, i've seen it, so its not a bogus add. Its at the shop of an old mechanic of mine, its been sitting in the shop for 2 years, and i talked to one of his mechanics-the car had been sitting for like 6 months w/o starting, he hopped in, gave it a bit of gas, and BAM, ran great, looks great too-its like a Hunter Green type color i think. He wants 4500 for it, but for 5500 he'll waranty it for 1 year. Its in GREAT CONDITION, the only defect, is a cracked dash, everything else works.........and it can b drivin away easily.

do u have the JTR manual? if u dont, then thats ur first mistake.

pretty sure im gonna buy it, it has a clifford intake, a header, front air damn, whale tail, its manual, its not a 2+2, holley carb..........basicly everything i want, i am selling my car now, but i dont think u'd b interested-cuz its a 2+2 280ZX. I just need the strut that bleach is sending, and then the car will b in a running driving condition. Im lookin to get 1200-1500 for it, if anybody is interested send me a PM.

an overheating Ignition sounds like a problem i had on the Z.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7976444354&category=33742 Scroll down, is this guy a part of this board? If so, who is it?

i can't remember where the leak was, since i don't have my car, but i remember its like 3-4 inches from the number 1 injector, its 3-4 inches towards the drivers side fendor, it mite b on the throttle body or sumthin. i'd take a pic if i had the car with me-i just can't remember exactly without looking at it. All you have to do, is basicly tighten all the hoses untill u find the right one, theres a few, but not too many that r close to the number one injector. Hope this helps, if not, PM me and mayb i can help a bit more.

i've long had that problem fixed, its back on the road, or was untill my uhhhhh incident......but i just used a piece of aluminum and bought sum heat sink compound and used screws to mount it behind the headlight-doesn't get hot behind the headlight, and it doens't stall anymore.

I know it sounds like a stupid question, but i used the search button and nuthin showed up-its very selective when im trying to find sumthing. Do the RB motors you get online come with A/C? If not, is there a kit to put A/C on an RB25? How much? I'm gonna start the swap this summer, and this is gonna b my everyday car, so i really would enjoy a/c.

Has anybody tried this on an RB swap? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4551190511&category=6755

idk, i work in an quicky lube shop, and those Garrett Turbos in the duramax, cummins, and powerstrokes are HUGE-compared to a Z turbo, and a Supra turbo. (edit) NVM, i relized that u meant the ones they put in are TOO BIG for the application. I thought u meant that they r small and that they should only b used on 4 cylinder cars...........my mistake.

scratch that, i may b getting a first gen now, and i think its manual, haven't seen it yet though, so im not quite sure about buying it.

i dont plan on putting much HP to the ground yet......just like 300. GUESS WHT EVERYONE, i mite b getting a 75' 280Z, i forgot to ask if it was manual or not.......but if it is, then its getting a 5-speed from the GTS.....KICKASS.