Jeff

My bone stock LT1 & 4L60E in my 94 Trans Am put down a ground pounding 238 RWHP. The only mod it had at the time was a cold air intake setup.

You might give Amazon Hose a call locally or Maryland Metric is very good.

No the PCM will not need to be reprogramed. I've got a Transgo kit in my 94 Trans Am with all stock programming. You will like the way it shifts though.

Here are my 1x3's welded to the underside of the floor.

Thanks for the kind words RacerX. All of the Central Floridians came through Charley & Frances OK and I just read a post where the Gulf Coast guys are starting to check in. Lets hope that's it for this year. The car is ready to go to the media blaster so it shouldn't be long before I can post some progress pics.

Wow it's kind of depressing to see this post resurrected and realize that nearly two years has gone by. The car is still not painted and I've barely worked on it this summer. Between work and now getting hammered by two hurricanes the Z has suffered. I should be back on it soon though.

Lets hope not Rick. The current projection has it nailing us on Tuesday but that is a long way off yet. Glad to hear that you and the Z's survived without injury.

Yep it looks like it's going to be round 2. It's time to go in search of batteries and water tonight. Hey Speeder are you going to batten down the hatches and ride it out over there on the coast?

Glad to hear that you are OK Scottie. I thought about you and Mike when I saw coverage of how bad the east side of town took a hit. I don't believe the winds were as bad out on my side of town. Hope you get power soon but my parents and brother still don't have power either. I was lucky and got power back at 7:00 PM Sunday night so I was only out for two days.

Orlando is a mess in some parts but I came through fairly well with only some missing shingles. My parents lost a number of trees and none hit their house but I can't say the same for their neighbors. I still do not have power and I'm typing this via candle light on a laptop with a dial up connection. Life sucks at the moment but everyone is working very hard on the clean up and to restore utilities.

I can see where a passenger might need that after they've gone for a ride in little ole Porkchop.

I've been trying to think of a way to integrate turn signal and high beam indicators into the dash since I'll loose then with the Autometer gauges. So far I can't come up with anything I like but maybe with this option it will help. Thanks again.

Thanks for the heads up on lead time since I will be going that route when the time comes. I'm going to do a color change and go for beige is the main reason I'm considering it.

I couldn't have said it better but you guys need to take a peek at his website. That car has run a best of 9.22 and must be pushing upwards of 800 hp. The stock unit will never hold up to that kind of abuse and as you've already discovered it won't shift reving that hard either. I think a G-Force unit is probably your best bet. I love this shot BTW.

OK guys you're making me work at this. I had not taken a picture of the gusset plate until now. The car is back on the ground but I was able to get a pretty good picture of it. We made a cardboard template and then cut 1/4" plate steel to shape. I know it would probably be better to triangulate it some how but I can't imagine that this won't be strong enough.

Here is how I did my subframe to frame rail connection and I believe you could do something similar with the stock rails. I used 1x3 tubing under the floors but it would require you to remove the factory rails that are under there. I use the term "rails" loosely when it comes to the under floor supports. Here is my connection to the rear factory frames.

I just threw out my old rails a few weeks ago so this is from memory. The outside diameter is right at 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" but I don't know what gauge they were. They were thin and likely less than 1/16" thick but if we use that then the inside diameter would be 2 3/8" x 2 3/8". I replaced mine with 2 1/2" square tube and it was very close to the stock size.

That looks great Scottie and I'm glad you're leaving it as a sleeper. Let us know when it will make its track debut so I can come out and watch. If you ever want to freshen up the red paint my friend Mike is a very talented painter and I have access to a booth on the weekends.

That looks really nice Dan and I know you must be glad to be driving it again. I need to make it out to an east coast autocross to see it in person.

I've run 245/45 16 Victoracers at several open track events and I'm very happy with them. I don't agree that you need to have them shaved but I would subject then to a couple of heat cycles before you open track them. In other words drive them on the street until they are up to temperature and then let them cool over night. I did this with mine and they held up well through autocross and open track events. This was on a Trans Am instead of a Z32 but I don't think it would matter since both cars are of a similar weight. The Hoosiers are a better tire but like you said they are quite a bit more money so it's your decision.

Oooops I somehow missed that bit of trivia.

Wow that looks great Scottie. So since you bought a red one how are we going to tell it and Misred apart.

Wow that looks great Rick and I can't wait to see it run. Let us know when you're going to take it to the track with the new setup.

That appears to be an Ecsta V700. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Ecsta+V700 I'm currently running a set of the Ecsta V700's on my Trans Am for track days. I've done seven 20 minute sessions on them so far and was very pleased with them. Lots of grip and they didn't seem to wear excessively. They need to be shaved to 4/32" tread depth if you are going to run them on a dry road course. That's a little over 3mm if I did the math right.