Jeff

The WS6 option wasn't available until 1996 on the 4th gen Trans Am's so if it's a 1995 it's not a WS6. That was what my memory was telling me but I verified it here. http://www.f-body.org/faq/4/4_1.htm#ch4_1k The following is copied from the linked site. Q: What's included in the WS6 performance package? A: The package was available starting in 1996 on Formulas Trans Ams only. Included in the package were: Ram Air hood and air intake (like that of the Firehawk) The 1998s and up WS6s have a completely new hood with 2 functional intakes right above the standard non functional nostrils Freer flowing exhaust system Higher rate front springs (360 lbs/in) Variable rate rear springs (130-180 lbs/in) Stiffer front and rear shocks Harder bushings Larger diameter front anti-sway bar (32mm) Increased cooling 17 inch wheels with 275/40ZR/17 tires I have a 1994 Trans Am that started out life as an automatic and I converted it to a six speed car. It's not that bad of a swap and I had it completed in two days time with help from a buddy. Here is a great link outlining the conversion process. http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm

The Corner Carver crowd can be intense but they do bring the tech, glad it helped! It does appear there are options on how to install the subs on the 6 point harness. I like the idea of mounting them to the same points as the lap belt so that's what I'm going to try.

I'm about to buy harnesses so this is a timely thread and I've been doing some research Mike. I'm probably going with the G-Force Pro 6 point setup. The G-Force directions actually say acceptable angles are from 5* down to 30* up which really shocked me. Here is a link to the G-Force PDF installation instructions. Scroll down to page 2 and you'll see what I'm talking about. Click here. They talk a good bit about spinal compression injuries due to excessive angle.

That isn't correct Mike unless the seats are specifically rated for it. If the belts angle too much it can cause a spinal compression injury in a collision. Here is a link to the Schroth installation instructions. Click here. The click on Lap, Shoulder - and anti sub routing. They recommend horizontal to a max of 20 degrees down. Here is a fairly lengthy discussion over on Corner Carvers about 6 point harness mounting. Click here.

Hey Tim I see you still have exposed rafters. I moved into a house a little over a week ago and the garage has exposed rafters. I just started working on the garage yesterday and was debating on whether to drop in a ceiling or not. Any regrets on no ceiling?

Wow that looks very nice! Is Mazworx doing that work as well or did they just do the cage?

Happy birthday Scottie and congratulations on the new lift. I'm under contract on a new place that has enough ceiling height in the garage for a lift so that's now on my wish list.

With my 1"x3" subframes, roll bar and 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" front frame rails when you jack up one corner the other corner will lift off the ground at the same time. The car wasn't fully assembled at the time but it sure seems pretty stiff to me. Here is a picture of my sub frames.

Welcome to the addiction guys there is nothing like it. You guys should really consider getting an instructor to ride with you though. A good instructor that knows the track can make you much faster and safer than you ever thought possible. Also don't knock sliding around on street tires they are a great learning tool. The R compound tires don't make much noise and give very little warning before they break loose. Just my $0.02, so go back out there and get some seat time.

I went the overkill route but I don't have a cage, just a rollbar. I would agree with John that 14 gauge (.083 wall) should be sufficient. I used 2 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 3/16" for the frame rails and 3" x 1" x 0.12" (11 gauge) for the subframes. Here is the subframes. Here is the subframe to frame rail and yes a gusset to the TC bucket was added later. If you make it to Orlando your more than welcome to check it out but the car is headiing for storage this Saturday for probably 4-6 weeks until I get settled into a new house.

Check out John Berget Racing Tires here. They specialize in used race rubber but it's always luck of the draw as to what they have in stock. A buddy just picked up a used set of Dunlop's from them and he let me co-drive last month. I've driven on DOT R compounds for years but this was my first time on true road race slicks and all I have to say is wow. I hope they have your size and go have some fun.

That thing would be a kick in the pants to drive but the C6 Z06 is no slouch. I had the pleasure of riding in a friends new slightly modified Z06 on a test track up in Gainesville on Saturday and that car is just amazing. I had been driving a friends highly modified beast of a 1998 Camaro all day and was just amazed at how refined that car was. It's quiet, smooth, has brakes that will pop your eyeballs out of their sockets and oh yea it will flat out haul ass too!

That sounds about right for the exterior of the car but I had mine mounted on a rotisserie and they hit every square inch of surface on the car. They started out with plastic media and then finished it with aluminum oxide to strip body filler and rust on the spots that the plastic wouldn't clean up. The total cost was $800 and that was a no receipt cash kind of deal. I used the same PPG epoxy primer as wickiewicked240z immediately after it was stripped and it turned out great. I highly recommend the PPG stuff too but it is expensive.

Yes that's personal experience on more than one occasion. They have fixed two vehicles so far and both were exceptional so that's the reason for the recommendation. Both were minor damage, less than $1,000 repair, so I can't attest to their major collision repair but a good friend that owns a very reputable Porsche, BMW, Mercedes shop sends all of his work their work his way and he is very picky.

Harper's Paint & Body, they are a small shop that does great work and get it done when they say it will be done. 407-299-2164

I saw that the other day and the last guy had me laughing my ass off. I wish I knew what he was saying.

Well they are offered on his web site for $10 less than the "buy it now" price on that Ebay auction so it is probably better just to buy them direct. BTW azcarbum you missed an "n" when typing in your web address try http://www.zenthusiasts.com

It's really difficult to see exactly where your picture is taken from but here is one of my hatch area when the car was completely striped.

That last picture appears to be all aftermarket stuff and you really need to get in there and pull all of that unused stuff out. Once you get back to the factory stuff then you can start tracing down the problems. Of course if you're just installing a radio then you can just wire it up direct to the fuse block and ignore the factory radio harness. If you don't won't to try and do this yourself there are some auto electric places in the Orlando area. The only one I've ever used is Winter Park Auto Electric and they were good but that was many years ago. (407) 644-8596

I didn't want to penetrate the floor pans so I went with 1x3 tubing in lieu of Pete's 2x3 method. I know it isn't as strong but I think it turned out well.

Mike, I bought a car trailer a few months ago that you are more than welcome to borrow for SEZ but I don't have my truck set up for towing yet so I can't lend you the tow vehicle. Let me know if you're interested.

That's looking very nice and you should be proud. Your body shell on saw horses reminded me of mine just after I had it media blasted and was getting ready to get a coat of epoxy primer on it.

Can you say rental car abuse!!

I feel your pain. I just spent $372 on PPG primers, body filler and sand paper. I'm sure I'll have well over $1,000 just in materials before the car is painted and I'm buying this stuff on my work account so I get a discount.

Happy birthday guys from someone else in his 40's. It's only about how old you think you are and not what the birth certifcate really says.