Jeff

The motor is a pain to work on. It is very tight under the hood plus like you said the motor is basically under the cowl. The rest of the car is no problem though. They are very fun cars though and really surprise a lot of people. Before I was signed off for solo duty at the track events I had a couple of instructors comment about how well the car handled. The LT1 powered 4th gens can be picked up cheap these days too.

I've got a 4th gen, 1994 Trans Am, that I autocross and do track events with. My suspension set up is actually pretty basic but it gets the job done. I've got a set of springs designed by F-body national champ Sam Strano, Koni single adjustables up front, Bilstein HD's on the rear, a Suspension Techniques 35mm front bar and an Unbalanced Engineering rod ended panhard bar. I've upgraded the front brakes to the LS1 version with Hawk HT-10 pads on the front and Hawk HP Plus on the rear. I've upgraded the power steering pump to a Turn One unit to hold up better during the track days. The LT1 versions are notorious for boiling their fluid. I also run some very sticky 315/35-17 Kumho V710's on all four corners. The best place on the net to research everything I've listed above is the F-body road race & autocross forum. http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/

That does make a lot of sense and it hadn't even occured to me. Thanks for the reply.

Mine is from a 96 Z28 and the mods are going to depend a bit on the budget but it won't be stock. I'm building the car from the ground up with a full rotisserie restoration thrown in for good measure along with the swap. At the rate at which I actually work on it I'm going to give Pete Paraska a run for his money for overall duration. It has been in storage since October but the renovations to the garage are almost complete so it should make it to the new house soon. At least that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Can the sump be turned around so that the lines come out the front? I would prefer that from a routing and visibility stand point.

2007 Yukon (Daily driver & tow vehicle) 1994 Trans Am (Track & autocross whore) 1974 260Z (Feeling neglected at the moment)

I went to the MSA show a couple of years ago and was very much looking for great interiors. I didn't really see anything that blew me away but here is one of the nicer interiors I saw. I don't know if the owner of this car is a HybridZ member but it is very clean.

I'm the chief estimator for a very specialized construction company. Being an Orlando based company we got our start working in the theme parks but have diversified into the zoo, aquarium, entertainment and museum markets. Really any venue that has an immersive or thematic type of environment is what we pursue. We don't build the buildings any more but create those environments mentioned above. It's difficult to explain so a picture is worth a 1000 words. The two pictures below show what the building looked like when we started on it and the finished product. Most of the skin on that building is fiberglass, pretty cool huh. The job is very demanding but I do love what we do. You can check out our website here.

Please don't ASSume to know how much time I spend on the track and I won't do the same. I'm not sure if you're talking about drag racing or not but what I was talking about is driving on a road racing circuit under a controlled environment. If you're talking about the same thing then I'm surprised that you're still out there on the street mixing it up.

I think you were street racing and very lucky that nothing worse happened. Anything that happened in that situation was your fault no matter if your buddy spun in front of you or not. Do yourself a favor and try a track day. It's legal and you'll have so much fun you will never think about trying it on the street again.

I left the cross member mounting point in place on the inner fender and cut a pocket in the new frame rail to accomodate it. The mounting point at the inner fender was then welded solid to the new frame rail. I then took the JTR spacer and welded it to the frame rail and cross member mounting point. It appears to be very solid but I know a lot of people don't run the spacer. I don't have a picture of the spacer welded on but here is the inner fender shown from the engine compartment and you can see the bulge where the cross member mount is on the other side. Here is the pocket that was cut in the new frame rail to clear the cross member mount.

You mean there are Z's that actually run? I've never even driven mine. It was a basket case when I got it 5 years ago and it's in much better shape now but I seem to go for long periods of time without working on it. Right now it has been in storage since November but I should get it to the new house soon. Oh well at this rate I'll give Pete a run for his money on the longest project.

I am sorry about that but he is local and I know the car.

Oh man that sucks but glad to hear you are OK. I so wanted to buy that car when Mike had it for sale but didn't have the funds at the time. If you're interested in parting out the car I'll take both doors and the hatch if they are rust free.

Wow so there are quite a few of us that have been here since 2000 that read and absorb but don't post much. This is a great site and the knowledge that I have gained from being here is invaluable. Thanks to the admins for keeping it going.

I cut off the seat brace bar and welded a harness bar on the diagonals instead of the main hoop. My Autopower unit did not have a horizontal bar from the factory though. I bought it used so I have no idea how old it is.

The mount looks very nice so count me in for one as well.

That's my car in the picture and I had a local sheet metal shop make my floor pans. All I really had them do was to roll the edge on some 16 gauge sheet metal so that it would come up and meet the rocker panel. They were just rectangles when I picked them up and we cut them to shape to meet the tranny tunnel. We put the subframe connectors in before we cut out the old pans to help keep things strong but still only did one side at a time.

Sorry to hear that Mike and I hope it's not the frame or unibody. I have a spare set of control arms and I have a pair of strut tubes that I'll be using for my coilover conversion but you're welcome to those as well. It sounds like you've got it covered but I thought I would offer.

I've got a great guy that specializes in the GM F-body platform but I know he works on all kind of vehicle. Robert Hinton @ TredAlign 407-295-7073. He is on John Young Parkway near Massey Cadillac. Tell him that Jeff94TA, or Jeff with the white Trans Am, told you to call.

Speaking of drivers schools. http://www.chinmotorsports.com/participants/list.asp?eid=174 Come join the fun Scottie. I'll be there beating on the Trans Am.

I went with a 5 point setup but mine is a street car that I run track events with. If it was a dedicated race car I would have gone with a six point setup as well.

Yes, remove the snap ring and wrap it around the roll bar. Then adjust the length to fit your setup. My G-force harnesses came in the other day and have the same setup.

I'm not sure that I would even give him $3,500 for it. That transmission is screwed and the LT1 cars are going cheap these days. Keep looking, you'll find something better.

Ok easy with the "I LOVE YOU" posts. All kidding aside that was the guide I used for my swap and it was a great help. It's funny but the thing that scared me most about the swap was removing the steering column to swap in the new pedals. Here is a pic with the column and pedals removed. That was the first day by myself and I had the new pedals and steering column back in by the end of then day. The second day was when we actually swaped tranny's.