Jeff

Have fun and be safe out there. I was supposed to run with Chin at Sebring on June 24th but wound up with a bad ABS computer that locked out the rear brakes completely so I had to cancel the day before the event. I'm sitting here at work jealous as hell right now.

I'm not sure about the offset but I built mine so that it was fairly adjustable. I used these plans to build mine from. You can also see some pics of mine here.

There is also Metals Depot. Kind of pricey as well but just thought I would post another source. http://www.metalsdepot.com/index.phtml

Conrats on getting the SAAB broken in. So now that the rings have finally seated in what are your plans?

Here is the video.

Could you please email me the information as well. jmcelyea at nassal dot com I wasn't looking forward to figuring this out on my own so you guys are the best.

Here is the thread where love-my-V8-280Z posted a pic of his setup. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=109427 What bracket and pulley's were used for this?

When I had mine blasted I used a company that had two booths. They hit it first with plastic media and then rolled it into the next booth with aluminum oxide, more aggressive, and only hit the spots that the media wouldn't take care of. This was done on a rotisserie so every square inch was stripped. Once it is down to bare metal you want to get a couple of good coats of epoxy primer on it as soon as possible. I let mine sit a couple of days and ended up having to acid etch a few areas that developed some surface rust. Once it is sealed in epoxy primer then you can take all of the time you want for the metal work. Like zed240au said, just hit any spot you want to weld on with an angle grinder to take it back to bare metal and then when you're done just shoot that spot with epoxy primer to seal it back up.

I run the 712's as a street tire on my Trans Am and they are fine as a basic street tire but they are not "one of the best". I have R compunds for autocross and road racing duty so that's why I'm not too concerned about the street tires. I had a lug nut seize up on me one day at an autocross so I couldn't swap on the R compounds and left the 712's on for that event. All I can say is for that kind of duty the sucked pretty bad. The Azenis Clifton mentions are an awesome street tire that you can also race on if you so desire.

I haven't personally refinished the gauge bezels but I've used the SEM Trim Black on other things and I think it would do the trick. There are lots of places that carry it but here is one link. Click here.

Looks nice Mike. Jim does great work and I'll have him do my LT1 heads one of these years. He is also very helpful when you're about to take a bad fall coming down from his storage area. For everyone else besides Mike this reference is about me trying to carry a partial front 240Z clip down a rather steep set of stairs exiting Jim's storage loft.

I did mine by myself too and yes it does get a little hairy. I damn near droped mine in the process.

Just Dashes can restore your existing dash to new condition. http://www.justdashes.com/Index.htm

Damn Mike that thing is huge! So what is the prediction for what boost levels the new motor can handle?

This has been discussed quite a bit here but you can see what I did here. Warning that link is not dial up friendly.

I've been following this because I scraped a 240 with less rust than you're dealing with and found a 260 that was much cleaner. I still had to do quite a bit of work to it but nothing like what you have been through. Our front frame rails and subframes are very similar though. Here is a pic before gusseting the TC buckets. I went with 1/4" plate instead of tubing but I still think it will be very strong.

You forgot the T56 to go with the LT1 but it's no problem I've got you covered.

That is what I ended up doing as well. I didn't like the fact that the harness bar was constructed of flat stock and this should place the belts in a better position.

Well I hope I never need it either but for a street car that may see occasional open track & autocross duty then I'm going with the better than nothing approach. I'm assuming your comment was about the design of the bar and not about the installation. I value your opinion very much and if you see an installation problem please let me know so that I can correct it before I get much further into this project.

I'm a little late but here is the autopower bar installed in my 260Z. I welded it instead of bolting it and have since added a harness bar. I know it doesn't show seat clearance but hoped it would help.

Yes you can put it in the roof down position but I don't think I ever had a reason to.

Well I thought I would resurrect this thread to mainly amuse myself at how long it has been since I worked on this damn car. I seem to go in spurts and literally hadn't touched the car in almost two years. We finished all of the structural & floor pan work in Decmeber 03 and then I trial fit the LT1 & T56 in January 04. That was the last time it was touched until December 17th of this year. Well it went to the media blaster and every square inch was taken down to bare metal using a combination of plastic media first then aluminum oxide on the more stubborn areas. Here it is in the shop at work getting ready to be primed. Here it is with three coats of epoxy primer on the bottom and yes we gave up on the saw horses and used the forklift. I left the rotisserie at home and didn't feel like going through all of the hassle to bring it to the shop. Here it is with three coats of primer everywhere and the interior in color. It's 2003 50th Anniversary Corvette Electron Blue Metallic btw. It's currently at a weld shop having a couple of small rust holes fixed in the rockers and battery tray area. It's also getting the side marker lights filled in as well as almost every hole on the engine compartment inner fenders. I just checked on it and he is doing an awesome job. He will be done with it today so it will be home before the first of the year. The body work phase can now officially begin with one more trip on the rotisserie to seam seal and paint the underside. I'm going to try and keep on it this time as I don't want to break Pete Paraska's record.

I had a similar experience with a great instructor when I was running Roebling Road a couple of years ago. Instead of gas gas gas his was go go go. I remeber exiting turn two and hearing that go go go and me telling him I was on the floor. His response was basically "OK good". He pushed me hard and we had a great time!

I think the Avon Tech R's are a DOT tire so they would be stock legal. If I remember the rules correctly your spring swap and the addition of a rear sway bar will knock you out of the stock classes in to street prepared. Just go run in whatever class they put you in and have fun since that's what it's all about.

I've driven and ridden in some fast boats on the St. John's River but probably nothing over 85 mph. That thing makes my buddies Checkmate with a 502 in it look like a pig. I want one!