Jeff

It's not BeastZ's control arm. Here is a picture of his.

That looks like the one that Jamie was making and Mike Kelly was selling under ZF Racing. I can't remember Jamie's screen name on here though and I'm not sure if he is still making them. That's the one I want but I haven't made up my mind about the whole heim joint in bending issue.

I'm glad you finally found the cause of the leak but damn pulling the pan 7 times and the transmission multiple times just sucks. I picked up my Trans Am at 5:00pm today from the transmission shop. The drag racing, road racing and autocross finally took it's toll and the tranny went south. Mine feels good again so I hope you have similar luck this time my friend.

You should be fine with the amount of driving your talking about. Go ahead and wait to fix it unless it keeps getting worse.

It's an exhaust manifold leak. The tick your hearing is the exhaust leaking out when the cylinder closest to the leak goes through it's exhaust stroke. You need to pull the exhaust manifold clean it and the head well and then replace with a new gasket. Probably not what you wanted to hear.

Thanks for the update Mike. Email sent with my mailing address.

I posted this before so I'm not sure if you gave this guy a call or not. Custom Welding by Law John Law, No Kidding 407-843-0061 Here is one of the more prominent race car shops. Takash Race Craft 407-740-5669 http://www.takashracecraft.com/ Both of these are in Orlando but I know they have the capability.

All joking aside any running Z Car for $300 is worth it. You might want to go to http://www.z31.com and talk to those guys about what to look for. I've actually owned an 84, 86 and a 88 so I love the Z31's and they were all great cars. Of course they were all fairly new at the time.

Last time it was the Days Inn and the Valley Inn both in Fort Valley. I just went to the Days Inn web site and it looks like they are booked up so we better check with the Valley Inn. The phone number to the Valley Inn is 478-822-9090. They are right next to each other so it shouldn't matter who stays where.

Repeat after me: I do not need another Z car, I do not need another Z car, I do not need another Z car. So how many Z cars will this make now?

Try this thread. Took about five seconds to find with the search button.

Thanks for the update Mike. You can take your time on mine I'm not in serious need at the moment. I just didn't want to miss out on one of the last sets.

I would like to see them the same diameter as the front brakes but you can go with a thinner rotor. Everyone who is running these brakes should be running a proportioning valve so brake bias shouldn't be an issue. This is not an original idea I'm just stealing it from the Arizona Z Car setup.

I know the owner of a small welding / fab shop that is an ex chasis fabricator. I'm sure he would do it for you. The shop is Custom Welding by Law and the owners name is John Law, no kidding. His phone number is (407) 843-0061. I know him through work so if you call tell him that Jeff with The Nassal Company told you to call.

I second the vote to find a race car fabrication shop. You might be able to find a welder that will do it but I would be more comfortable with a fab shop. If all else fails I can hook you up with someone in Orlando. For the shops that say it can't be done you can show them the Ground Control installation instructions. The instructions can be found with the post the other day that pointed you to the Energy Suspension instructions.

Damn I was hoping someone would have the answer. I'm a long ways from putting the hatch back on my car but mine are toast too.

I hate to burst your bubble but the reaction time has no effect on the 1/4 mile time. The clock doesn't start running until your front tires break the beam . The reaction time is the amount of time it takes from when the light turned green until your tires break the beam. If you get that 60' time down to a 1.9 you'll be in the 12's no problem.

Autocross is run what you brung and those little front wheel drive cars do very well. I think it is a great idea but I bet you're going to have a tough time convincing your school. I ASSume you are going to try and run this at the school and the liability issues would be pretty tough to overcome. You also have the initial outlay of cash to purchase the cones and timing equipment. I think it is a noble thought just be realistic about the obstacles to overcome.

Be careful working on your car that tired. It is dangerous now and could be dangerous in the future if you screw something up and don't realize it. A few monthe back I did an all day thrash session on my Trans Am and swapped out springs, shocks, struts and a front sway bar. A friend brought his car by and we swapped out a damaged strut, front sway bar, brake pads, speed bleeders, flushed his brake fluid and power steering fluid. I had worked from about 9:00am until about 11:00pm and was about to fall over I was so tired. When my buddy backed out of the garage he said the brakes were very soft and just about then I heard something fall out from under the car. It was a box end wrench that I had left on the left front speed bleeder and yes the bleeder was open. I was like oh crap and then got paranoid about what other mistakes I might have made. Everything else was fine fortunately. Be careful out there.

My work is used to receiving all kind of stuff for me. My most recent was tires as well it was a brand new set of Kumho Victoracers. They were all cracking up as I was drooling over my new rubber. I had never run race rubber before, damn what a difference.

A four lug pattern is self centering so it shouldn't be a problem. Have you ever seen a universal fan spacer? Check it out. As long as you don't make the slots too big you should be fine.

If anyone buys them at $399, I'll start buying the from Zedd Findings at $232 and resell them on Ebay.

The steering knuckles are connected in two places. One end connects to the outer tie rod and one end connects to the ball joint. Both connection points need to be broken loose with what's known as a pickle fork. Picture a two prong fork that is wedge shaped, I know that descrpition sucks but it is the best I can do. The pickle fork is drive between the knuckle and the joint forcing them apart. You can rent them but you will need two different sizes for this. You have just scratched the surface of what you want to do so you need to work it out with your parents. Like I said in an earlier post, you need to tackle one task at a time so that you wind up with a driveable car between upgrades. That way you can do one thing and then drive the car while the parents ca;m down before the next round of modifications. Work it out and don't sell the car!!

Mike, that's called the gland nut and yes they can be a real bitch to get off. Penetrating oil, a vice and a large pair of channel locks or a pipe wrench are your friend. Heat is not a bad thing either. The joke is once you get the gland nut off the strut cartridge may be rusted in tight as well. I can help you get it apart but it would require a road trip to Orlando. I'm available on Sunday so let me know if you want help.

Rick, you've been holding out on us.