Bartman

It looks really nice. Whatever the flaws are, they aren't showing in the pic's. The integrated front looks really good, but I'd be really scared that the slightest hit would ruin everything (can't easily replace front air dam or headlight buckets).

It really is quite simple as posted there are four screws holding it on, one in each corner. You could easily create a new panel out of aluminum or whatever suits your fancy. What do you want to include into your panel? I kept the stock map light and vents and created a new piece just for the A/C and heater controls. I made two inserts out of steel and placed one in front and one behind the stock panel with the A/C control panel holding them together.

If you're referring to my swap, I swapped an LT1 which works fine with the JTR mounts.

The original post asked the difficulty of an LS1 swap vs sbc. The reason I think it's easier to do a swap with an SBC is that it's been done many times before and just about every SBC specific issue has already been accounted for and addressed. If you go with the JTR setup, you have good documentation and support (including tons of info on our site). LSx swaps are getting more commonplace, but it hasn't gotten to the same level as SBC swaps. The cost is generally higher (for example, John's kit), and you may or may not run into other issues. All in all maybe the difference isn't enough to be the deciding factor. If you want an LSx swap, then go for it. Recognize it may be more difficult or expensive, but if that's the engine you really want than it will probably be worth it.

The only problem would be the fuel pump, since it has a specialized design and installation in the fuel bucket. It would probably be pretty hard to install a different pump with the lower flow requirements that you need with a carb.

I didn't realize that you can get the RB with a stock compressor. Z U L8R provided some good informtion on connecting your stock system from your car to the stock compressor on your motor. You should be able to make them work together. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

The Californai legal LS1 is Briguy280Z and here's a thread that talks about it: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100829

I really don't care whether someone wants to install an LSx, LT1, or any other SBC into their Z; but this statement is just plain false. LSx engines are a different swap than previous Chevy engines. You cannot use the JTR kit with LSx engines, but you can with an LT1. If you want an LSx go for it, just don't expect to be able to use the JTR setup.

Read this link: http://autos.yahoo.com/owning/maintain/repairqa/qa.html?question=ques081&category=Exhaust+%26+Muffler&topics=qaemmiss%01qamuffle Here are a couple of excerpts: WARNING: Federal law makes it illegal for ANYONE to tamper with, disconnect, remove or otherwise render inoperative ANY emissions-related control device. The federal anti-tampering law does not, however, apply to race cars that are not operated on the street, other full-time off-road vehicles, show cars that are not street driven, or vehicles not factory equipped with emission controls (most 1967 and earlier vehicles). So that exempts all antique cars, and most classic cars and muscle cars.

All joking aside, your going to have to put a little effort into this. The information doesn't exist in the manner you are asking for it. The link that was provided has some good information regarding removing smog equipment, read it and learn. Get the manual and study it as well. Do your research and make your own informed decision as to what you want to remove and what you want to leave alone. Understand the purpose of the item and the pro's and con's of removing it before you do anything. Also the laws are different in certain states regarding tampering with somg equipment, so you should be informed regarding those laws as well.

I have a fully functioning heat and A/C in my install. I got everything from Vintage Air, and the same would work for just about any Z regardless of the engine. The only engine specific item to work out is figuring out where and how to install the compressor and connecting it up with a fan belt.

Not sure about earlier engines, but the stock LT1 is externally balanced. I know some people internally balance them when they redo the lower end, so you've got to know whether it's internally or externally balanced if you change flywheels.

You could put it a little lower, but then you may start running into clearance problems. In this pic you can see about how low mine is sitting The only thing between the top of the tank and the bottom of the floor is the brackets I built to install it.

In general I think that you're better off with a Camaro engine than a Corvette engine and this is discussed more extensively in the JTR book (mainly due to accessory placement, but maybe you won't be using the them). All F-body LT1's have the aluminum heads, but I'm not sure about earlier engines. If you go with an LT1 you may need to switch to a 153 tooth flywheel like what came standard on mid 80's to early 90's 305 V8 f-body cars (they used T-5 transmissions). If you look for a pre LT1 engine, than you will have more work to get to your 350 HP goal.

I don't remember having too big of a problem getting those nuts off; although I do seem to recall having to turn the driveshaft in order to access them. Try rotating the shaft to a position where you can access just one of the nuts, and then once you have that one removed rotate it again until the next nut is in the same position that the first one was in. I don't remember the exact position (it may be that it's easiest to access when the nut is in the upper most position), but you may just have to do it by feel (no visual on the nut). Hope this helps.

I agree with deja, it would be easier and probably cheaper to just go ahead and get them from JTR. It sounds like you don't have the book either, so I would go ahead and get a copy of that at the same time. It's got plenty of good information that make it worth getting.

I found this description of the difference: A dual action (DA) sander is called "dual action" because it can be run in two separate and distinct modes. One mode is orbital (when the air motor spindle is locked to the sanding pad). The other mode is RANDOM orbital (the air motor spindle has a bearing in it that the sanding pad is attached to. So the sanding pad not only turns orbital along with the spindle but it turns in a random oribtal because of the bearing). In general it seems that true DA sanders are air driven and the electric one's are random orbitals...even though you stated that your electric unit is a DA.

Not sure if it's backwards, but I installed it with the filler neck on the passenger side. Here's some pic's:http://mysite.verizon.net/bzandbergen/LS1FuelTank.htm I changed the filler neck to connect to the stock datsun cap and retaining rim, but I haven't taken any new pictures yet. I modified the filler bucket to utilize the stock 240Z sending unit so my stock fuel gauge works normally.

Here's a couple of links that may help: http://www.mainstreamtopics.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=78 http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#opti_test Is the engine throwing a code? Is it always five seconds exactly?

I did the LS1 tank install on my car and it required no modification to the tank at all. It did require me to remove the spare tire well and build some custom brackets, but it uses the stock gas filler door and cap (no loss of cargo space). If you wanted to make a setup with the filler neck behind the license plate I'm sure it could be done. It would probably be easier to fabricate a new center filler neck than to resize a 69 Camaro tank. In addition the LS1 tank is nylon, has the fill bucket with internal pump, and is better suited for fuel injection (if your going that route).

Welcome to HybridZ! Several members at this site have purpose built V8 dragsters, so you will be able to find tons of information. Dr. Hunt is in the process of building one now for Cozy Z Cole and I believe they are going with a 2 + 2 to gain a little extra wheelbase. Turbo Meister and jnjdragracing have pretty fast cars built for drag racing as well. I know there are plenty others as well, but you can search through some of the posts and gallerys of these members to get some ideas for your car.

Thanks for the info and good to hear from you again Vinny!

Have you done this or know anyone that has? If so post a link or more detailed info on these kits. If no one has done this before, I would make sure the motor position from these kits will work properly in the Z's engine compartment before buying it. It's not just the ability to bolt to gen 1 sbc mounts, but mounting the engine in the proper location that's the real issue. Of course once the motor is in the proper location, there still is plenty of work to do!

You stated that you used solder before you had a welder. So if you have a welder, you think that welding the hole is the best option? In the Car Craft article I posted in my initial post, the author wrote that: "...welding or brazing the hole is a high-heat process that would invariably create some panel distortion and stuffing holes with plastic filler is an inferior repair, temporarty at best...". I think just about everyone here recommends welding, with the differences just being in the actual welding procedure.