Bartman

My harness is stock and was modified by the previous owner. I'll be sure to verify the oxygen sensor wires aren't crossed when I change the sensors and check everything else.

No I don't, but I may get it soon; especially if I can use it to help solve this problem. I've got a couple of new ACDelco Oxygen Sensors on order, so I'll see what difference that makes. I don't think I have any vacuum or exhaust leaks, but I will check that out as well. P.S. - Thanks for looking at my file, it seems like a great diagnostic tool and I've learned alot about how my car operates from this recording and studying the data. I'm hooked now and I just need to decide which editing program to purchase.

Yes, you're smog exempt; but technically you would still not be legal. Of course there are quite a few 75 and earlier vehicles that aren't legal running around California. If you ever want to attempt to make your car legal you will need a same year or newer engine with all the emissions that came on that engine connected and working.

Saved me $4.48, thanks for sharing.

Okay I upoaded the DataMaster file to my web site www.570z.com. There's a link on the main page called "DataMaster file" located just above the Latest Updates heading. Just right click and select "Save Target as...". The file is called 'test2.uni'. Let me know if you have any problems getting the file.

I've got my datamaster file, not I just need to figure out where to upload it. It does stumble coming off of idle as well as changing throtle position at lower RPMs. The idle is also really low when it's in closed loop. I'll get the file posted somewhere and then post a link.

Hey, it sounds similar to my car. The other night my wife and daughter were watching the movie "Chrisitine", and I started my car up shortly thereafter. When I came upstairs they just looked at me and told me my car sounds exactly like the car from the movie. My daughter is still a little scared to ride in my car now.

I'm running 225/45-17's on my car and I think they're a good choice for a 17 x 7 rim.

I just found a post over at LT1tech where someone talks about O2 sensors. "If they are fairly old, it would be a good idea to replace them... Also, since the car's been sitting a while, if the O2's have been sitting un-installed they may have already gone bad... My personal experience can attest to that. I removed mine while doing a head gasket repair and left them sitting on the bench. When I put everything back together they didnt work anymore... A good friend of mine (a GM tech) said that because they werent in the pipe, the part inside the sheild (sensor part) had excess moisture exposure and corroded, causing the failure. He also said that here in humid FL that this can happen with the O2's removed for more than a few hours or so. I guess they stay in good shape so long as their still mounted in the pipe because the pipe itself acts as a barrier from the condensation that would otherwise kill the sensor... Im sure the fact that they're used and have been exposed to many heat cycles helps this corrosion process to happen faster." Well, mine aren't that old but they were sitting out for quite a while when I did my swap and again when I did my upgrade. I found some NGK replacements at Summit Racing for around $35 a piece, maybe I should give them a try.

Thanks for all the questions, suggestions, and general information. I did not replace the sensors when I did my install, but they were replaced within the last 1,000 or so miles with original GM units (I've heard the Bosch replacements aren't that great). I plan on checking the continuity of my wiring from the PCM to the sensors to ensure that is not the problem as well. I've been wondering about the location of my sensors, they're connected down around the transmission area. Could this be to far down stream? I will try and post the datalog tonight or tomorrow (I can post it in text format as well?). I was able to get a complete recording including data while it was still in open loop and after it went into closed loop. I'm pretty sure I got more than 30 seconds of data, but I will verify that. My Knock Sensor is located just above the oil filter.

So I recently upgraded my engine and I’ve been working out a couple of bugs since I put it all back together. One of the last things I fixed was a problem with my Knock Sensor so that my system is no longer throwing any codes. Now that I’ve gotten rid of that code my engine can go into closed loop and as soon as it does it starts stumbling. I hooked up TTS Datamaster to take a recording of a test run. When the engine is in open loop everything looks fine, then as soon as the system goes into closed loop the fuel trim numbers vary wildly. So is my problem the O2 sensors or maybe the wiring to them, or could it be something else? I could post the Datamaster file if someone can read it and help determine what the problem is.

Congrats on the find, now fill us in on the details of what you plan on doing with it...like which V8? Remember that in California you will need to keep getting that car smogged (I believe the exemption is only for 75 and earlier), so that will somewhat limit your options.

I guess I’ll be the guy with the dissenting opinion. I don’t think that HybridZ should sponsor a car. I’m all for having a car or cars ‘promoting the Z car experience and the HybridZ philosophy to the public via racing events’, buy I don’t think that means that HybridZ needs to sponsor the car. Here are some reasons for not sponsoring a car: There are several Z cars out there that I think are already performing this function, and additional cars that are currently in progress may serve this purpose as well. It’s better to have a single owner (or maybe a couple of people) make the decisions about what engine, what upgrades, when and where to drive it, etc. You can never make everyone happy. Some will be upset about the engine choice, others about who is driving it, others about where it will be stored, and the list goes on. When decisions need to get made about the car, you create divisiveness. This site needs to remain neutral and support all types of Hybrid Z cars. What happens when someone breaks something or wrecks the car? Who’s going to pay for the insurance, registration, etc. Look at the Pinks threads… IIRC Dan didn’t want to have any sponsors advertise on HybridZ. I would imagine that some of the same reasons for not having HybridZ sponsors would also apply to being a sponsor. I’m all for a cool twin turbo big block, SBC, RB26, or whatever with the HybridZ logo on it; but let our members continue to build these cars on their own with out having to deal with HybridZ members dictating what they can and cannot do. My car may not be the greatest, but I have my HybridZ logo displayed with pride. Just my 2 cents, and let the flaming begin.

The JTR mounts work for all 350 engines up to and including the LT1. Actually I think it will work for all small block Chevy's...so 327's, 283's etc will work as well.

My engine is from a 94 camaro and I have one bleeder valve remaining in the system on the thermostat housing. I initially removed the bleeder valve until I got some coolant to come out of it, but it still didn't seem to be able to fill the engine until I filled the block thorugh the thermostat housing.

So I'm not sure if this solution is LT1 specific, or if this pertains to other engines as well. I recently upgraded my engine and had just about everything apart (I didn't remove the pistons, rods, and crank). I put everything back together, filled the radiator and the car ran great. The probem was the temperature gauge would max out after just a few minutes. When I checked the coolant level it was pretty close to full. Since I switched to an electric water pump I started investigating if it was working properly and spinning the right direction. It seemed to be working fine but when I disconnected the outlet hose nothing was coming out. I searched on HybridZ and found this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108175 In this thread AFR280 mentioned that he filled the block through the thermostat so I gave that a shot. It took quite a bit of coolant so I was hopeful that this was the problem. Sure enough the problem is now fixed and the temperature is staying nice and cool. So is this standard procedure when you loose the coolant from your block? I thought the water pump would be able to circulate the water through the block, but at least in my case it didn't seem like it was able to do that.

This is the best thread I could find to answer your question. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=71147 I think you'd be lucky to fit anything wider than 8" in the front without some modification to the fenders.

I think that I will give Auto-X and/or track days a shot as soon as I get a couple more of the bugs worked out of my car. It sounds like it would be fun and a great way to put some of that new found power and handling to the test!

The post labeled bat is your output and the one wire on the plug is your 'sensing' wire that need to be connected to ignition positive (or the light setup I talked about in my previous post).

Sounds like your well on your way. Since you've been searching you've probably found quite a few threads talking about running just an alternator and crank pulley belt. To the best of my knowledge nobody has succeeded in getting this to work on their LT1 powered Z. There's even been talk of mounting the alternator flipped around in front of the engine and spinning it backwards, but I don't think anyone ever actually tried it. Although gutting the power steering pump doesn't sound like the best solution, I really don't see any problems with this setup. I think my power steering pulley actually spins better than my other pulleys and it keeps the proper geometry as well. Good luck, and keep us updated with your progress.

On my LT1 one wire is the output and the other wire goes to an alternator light in my car (I used the old choke light on my console). I believe if you don't connect this wire correctly it will not charge the system. The other end of the alternator light is connected to an ignition positive. When the ignition is on the alternator light is lit because the alternator is providing ground. Once the engine starts the alternator give a positive signal and the light goes out (two positives). When I first wired my engine up I didn't connect the alternator light correctly and the alternator was not charging the system.

It looks like dynamat or something similar. http://www.dynamat.com/products_automotive_introduction.html You can find similar sound deadening products like this with many different names through many different sources (i.e. automotive and car stereo stores). I got mine from eBay.

As a member of the Pink's Forum and hearing about everything that unfolded, I was really worried about how the show would portray Z's in general as well as HybridZ. I thought that we were well represented and the negotiations just weren't going our way. I got Speed channel a little more than a month ago mainly just to watch Pinks, and in general I'm getting tired of the show. It's not the fastest car that wins it's all about sandbagging and negotiating. I think the Pinks car had a lot of potential that couldn't be tapped into possibly because of time constraints. The overheating and timing problems were mentioned, but I think there were a few other issues as well (like dialing in the suspension and getting off the line better). All in all, I'd have to say good show!