BrandonsZ

only 244 posts! Sorry, disregard my question.

I heard you take the flange off the stock 240 halfs and press in the u-joints from the 300. then you don't need an adapter. Woudl this work?

I was looking for that and I would have bought it but now I want to keep the inside of my car as stock as possible.

Same here 240z. the gage jumped all over the place with the stock trans. I tried the drill thing and no problem withthe new cable. The new trans has VSS so I had to buy a box to convert digital signal to analog rotation, no jumping. Switching to digital (analog look) gages soon. All I'll need is 4 lights, two green, a blue and a red, and put them in the dash somewhere for the blinkers, bright and brake.

You don't need an SBC compressor, just a bracket, although you might have to make one, and I'm not too old to remember how daunting that sounds, sorry. The best bet is modify a later model car (like late 90's +) to the car and then you can use R134a and will have nice cold reliable air. I don't trust those "kits" I tried one and $500 later it only lasted 1 yesr. total bs.

I just had the same symptom, there was a metalic thump when I accelerated or let off on the gas, like "Thump, thump", it was substantial because I felt it in my feet. So I checked the driveshaft bolts, the half shaft bolts, even re-tightened the rear bearings, but it turned out to be the differnetial mount to the flat mustashe bar, one nut was loose and the other wasn't torqued, so I torqued them and that fixed it.

disconnecting your IACV will do wonders for a steady idle... however, whent he car is cold the idle will be barely crawiling, so you'll turn it up and then when it's warm it'll be racing so you'll turn it down, and then when you go for a mountain drive the car will die on idle. The IACV actually controlls idle for different conditions to try to maintain idle. Fuel injected idle just isn't the same as carburated, it's more complicated, but maybe you'll get lucky good luck.

You could take an autoshop class at the loacl highschool. Get a Chilton's book for 70-XX Z, I have two, it'll go through what you need. That's a good gun, you set the gun on what the timing should be (10 degrees BTDC would be a good place to start) and then it'll shine the light as appropriate such that you could time a car that does not have degrees written ont he timing marks. Your timing marks at a minimum show where 0 (TDC) is. If you don't have marks, then you need to find them or paint them on the flywheel and block. you find TDC when #1 cylindar is on it's power stroke (both valves closed) and the piston is all the way at the top. To use the light, adjust it such that the dial indicates 10BTDC or whatever degree is appropriate then disconnect vac advance (if you have it) and plug the vac, then loosen the distributor and tighten it just so you can barely turn it with your hand. then start the car and look for the mark with the light shining on where the mark should be, once you see the mark, turn the dist until they line up. If your gun does not have a dial, then you'd turn it until the line on the balancer is at the 10degree mark. Ask more Q's if you need.

Jag = no 1. XJ6 is VERY unreliable (replace ALL electrical). 2. XJ6 is English, so it looks great but sucks eggs for a hot climate generally. 3. The tail lights melt on a really hot day 4. There is a waxy snott that comes out of all the drain holes on a hot day. 5. Smells like ripe fish on a hot day. 6. Girls like you 'cause you remind them of their father'. 7. The little cat on the hood WILL rip off when you take it to a car wash. Porshe = yes 1. Chick magnet 2. Help you snag a keeper 3. Your wife won't let you take the future baby in either car anyway? 4. When are you going to take mor than just one hot chick for a ride? (let's not get greedy) 5. Your new girlfriend will appreciate your enginuity and remember you in that throaty porsche long after it's cut in half by a tree at 120mph. (tree's fault!) 6. You can go through your mid-life-crisis well before you are too old to enjoy it. 7. Good trade for a down on a good lawyer for the inevitable divorce. (babe magnets never lose their draw factor, downfall of most marriages) This is where the tree comes in.

But what's up with the straight rear axel? Come ON Ford? Sometimes it ok to be cheap but really!

Naaa, I had to put the stock broken radio back in, all the buttons were worn so you coundn't read them, it wouldn't turn off, the antenna only went down 1/2 way, two speakers were blown, the interior was relatively ok on the surface, but there was a hard crust on the seats from the time I spilled the "orange stuff" caugh medicine, and every panel was either dented or rusted. The airbag was previously removed, it burned 1qt per 250 miles and the front rotors vibrated like an SOB. The rims were aluminum, only very oxidized and scratched, and the engine leaked an unknown fluid, clean and clear unlike anything I had ever seen before or since, an unknown spot on the garage floor which was more like jelly, smelled like burnt plastic and was crystal clear! some of the gages flickered on and off, the gas gage randomly showed empty or full, and it had real trouble starting. My wife said it sounded "like it had a cold". That might actually explain the clear liquid. Oh and it wouldn't pass smog. So they just left it about 1/2 mile up the street.

zip file won't open.

Is that a preferred method of creating a "rear engine" car? I don't know if the radiator will do much good like that either.

I worked on 2Cyl snowmobile motors, I forget the brand, we had them installed in the racers we ran at Malibu Grand Prix all year. They were a pain in the arse because they were 2 stroke, constantly having spark plug problems like the cap coming off or the plug fouling. At one point I had it all straightened out but the manager worked against my inovation and I was out at the track several times a night on the ones he "fixed". I recommend 4 stroke, don't have to mix oil and gas and smell better. They only overheated very seldom on hot days, usually if the sun was beating on them and they were sitting idling. The idiot shop manager used to run them for 20 minutes when he first got them to "brake them in", he ended up breaking a few of them doing that. Jackarse probably didn't even know they didn't have a camshaft. Total dick too, what a loud mouth prick. Anywho, you should go for a 4 stroke, air cooled is tricky, but just fine as long as you have a fan blowing past the fins in a controlled manor (there was a composite shroud around the engine and the fan blew straight through and worked well. when the engine was overheating it ran but got sluggish and would sound like someone was trying to push the piston down with a rubber mallot. cool it down for an hour and it was fine again... mostly. Sorry I can't help more.

But why are these cars all so boxy? All of them are in every dimension larger than the 240z, and so boxy. I'm getting 80's flashbacks. Cobalt, SRT-4, Acura, SRX. what's up? Why can't all these cars lok like the Lotis?

Check amazon, they have chilton for ford trucks. There will be a tensioner, you'll need to remove that, then it'll spring lose and you can replace it, you'll have to pry on the tensioner to put it back on, there may be a seperate pin or bolt to hold the tensioner in place while it was removed. There should be a single bolt in the ceneter and it'll slip onto a pin or have a pin in it that fits in a hole behind it. Don't pinch your fingers. Easy stuff.

You can't use belt dressing on serpentine (don't know why), and you can't tighten it if it has a tensioner, your only choice is replace the belt.

Amazing that you could do the engine swap but not troubleshoot some simple wiring.

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