BrandonsZ

It is possible that they weren't all the way presed in but just tightening the lug nuts did not straighten them. I had to straighten them by tapping them lightly untill they were equally spaced and perpendicular, then the wheel went on and the runout was negligible. The wheel is self centering on the studs, not the other way around. Another reason to think this is just a temporary solution.

I also noticed this, and could find washers that were bigger than the contact of the rims to the hub. One problem I found with a "hub centric" spacer and "lug centric" wheels was that the studs were so long that when I pressed them in they were not all pointing straight up in fact I had to coax them into being perpendicular to the hub I have 1" spacers that were custom made to fit "hub centric" on the 240 front hubs (not as easy as it sounds because the hubs really radius at the bottom and aren't perfectly round either but with a very little machining on the hub and a properly made spacer I was able to press the spacer onto the hub just a very minor engagement, the back hubs do stick out from the drum by about 1/8" so I could use that interface to get hub centricity. But It made me nervous when I noticed the studs weren't all parallel or perpendicular so spacers are obviuosly a temporary solution and the proper rims are the best opition overall. I will be getting proper rims and pressing the old studs back in when I do.

IT may not be as much fun to think about but after doing the full monty from scratch on my '72 if I was to do it again, I'd DEFINATELY pull the drivetrain from another car especially sice you can get one engine, wiring, computer and tranny complete with less than 50k for less than 2g. Then all you have to do is pull the fuel injection/smog nonsence and put in a nice edelbrock carb . Or I guess you could mount the computer and deal with the harness. Seriously though you could buy a salvage title car with a low mileage running drivetrane for less than the price of the engine and tranny seperately... of course you'd have a factory tranny and be limited to factory performance. This is what's I'd try next, if I had to do it again, but it would take a lot of work to make it look as nice as mine does, it's like a shinning jewel in a dirty box, but an OEM motor IMO (without the plastic covers) looks like a turd. But with a sleeper, who cares anyway. And that might give you a "factory" look under the hood that'd be cool too. There are several years of firebird/camero that have the T56 with LT1, or even T56 with LS1.

Unfortunately it's a critical joint there, tough luck, you could ignore it if you have enough engagement and it will hold the torque, just check it after 1kmi if you are nervous. But replacing the crank is easier than you'd think all you have to do is replace the main bearings and the crank (measure thenm accurately, the main bearings are split and will press in pretty easily, get a good book about rebuilding ford engines and follow it) and while you're at it replace the front and rear seals and of course a new oil pan gasket. Also check to be sure your oil pickup is on there real good. It's no biggie. If your engine is internally balanced, have it balanced, otherwise you can just externally balance it as you would have normally, everything else is bolt and torque. Not a biggie IMO In my opinion, I'd rather replace a crank than replace a camshaft. I think it's easier.

Someone could make a deal with the school to use the facility after hours and set up a class for adults (for a nominal fee) and kick back to the school. But if the community college is already doing that then maybe not. My HS had adult programs for Autoshop, machine shop, ceramics and woodshop, it was open to anyone, even students (they needed parental consent). They got to do all the fun stuff that they phased out of letting us do after too many accidents. I think someone cut off a finger in woodshop and the next semester all they'd let us use is hand tools (my last semester luckily). Fortunately I had already made several items the previous 2 semesters that are still in use today a nice chery wood grandfather clock and an oak sterio cabinet.

This also may explian the leaning out that happens when you turn up the boost on fuel injected cars that weren't specifically designed to run that boost. I mean the fuel pump pressure regulator may be set and say and you are running 12psi boost and you try to go higher you are lowering the volume flow rate into the cylindar even though the injector may be opening longer.

When they switched from 55 speed limit to 65, the police were very sensitive and people were getting tickets for 1 over. I stayed 63 just to be sure I wouldn't get nabbed. Now? If you are going 65 you're likely to get rear-ended. 70 minimum, I usually go about 70-75 and many times people are passing me (on both sides) at least 25 over the limit. I have seen someone pulled over for going 55 in the fast lane, he was causing a traffic jam in his wake and many people were honking at him, then the cop pulled behind him and pulled him over and of course it took him several minutes to blink all the way over to the slow lane shoulder.

Good question for Edelbrock.

Nope, the temperature of the fluid and it's cold volume is drectly proportional to the expanded volume, so there would be two ways to decrease the expanded volume, use a radiator like JTR which holds less fluid than stock, or put a cooler thermostat on it. The latter solution will not work if your car does not cool efficiently say when you are dragging or sitting at a light where the temperature can spike higher. On my system the electric fan is set about 10 degrees higher then the thermostat, I've driven to work 25 miles without ever hearing the fan come on in the morning and I've never seen the temperature (still original gage) go more than 1 mm over 1/2 way. In about 1 minute even on a cold morning it'll rise rather quickly to a hair under 1/2 way, then if I push it it'll go to the fan setpoint and sticks right there, if I go on the freeway and turn the heater on it will even go down tot he thermostat temperature again and stick there. I'll never go back to belt driven fan again, even in 90+ degree weather the fan does not come on on the freeway. Another testimonial for the JTR radiator, it was about 80F and I had removed the fuse to the fan when I was working under the hood but forgot to put it back, I drove it to work the next morning and it was about 50F so I didn't hear the fan on (you can hear it on idle when it is on along with the fuel pump and of course the engine), then I was driving to a friends house and when I stopped I noticed the fan was not on, I looked at the temp gage and it was about 2mm past the 1/2 way mark which was past the setpoint for the fan, I made it home throughthe neighborhood without ever seeing it get anywhere near the red, not even 3/4. Consider the original engine/radiator went to 3/4 on a hot day and it had a belt driven fan. So that radiator is pretty good.

What is the dimension for the long nose, if you can tell me where to measure from/to, I'll measure it. It's at least 4" longer then the 180 just be looking at it. The guy I got it from said it was already in a Z with a 350 but the car was rebuilt with a straight axel for drag racing.

I thought we weren't supposed to have political discussion? Anyway, welcome to america, land of the free.

Heard on Howie, The guy is a local "freek" who suffers from PDST. He claimed he was stuck to a toilet seat a year previous at a welcome center. Total scammer.

3.7 sitting on my garage shelf, I don't know what it is really since it was given to me, I didn't take the cover off it yet but the guy claimed it was rebuilt... several times. It has a huge cover that has like 4" fins coming off it, it looks cool, but it probably won't fit in my car like that. it also has a round flange on the input shaft that doesn't look likt my 180, I haven't looked intot heis swap enough, but I know i'll need the half shafts at least changed out. I certainly would like a 336 R200. But my 180 is still holding in there.

Stock 14x5" 1972 steel wheels WILL NOT FIT without at least .875" spacers. I am using .78" (20mm) spacers and they still didn't clear so I added another .25" and it now clears by about 1/8". Yes the car is now borderline dangerous but at least the 2" studs are poking through this whole mess and holding everything together. When I get new rims I will ditch these spacers and longer studs. All this because I needed new brakes, sometimes it's better just to replace with OEM until you are really ready. Sheesh. The interference was between the inner wall of the rim and outer husk of the brake caliper, if they were 15" I bet they would have cleared with no difficulty, and it was only hitting by like 1/8" but I didn't want to shave 1/8" off the claipers so in order to clear that hump in the inside of the rim it has to be spaced out. Then the wheels barely fit inside the fender lip, but it looks ok.

You will not ned to keep it, aftermarket radiator may/may not even have a radiator cap, if not you better add one and put a catch can on somewhere where the fluid can expand into and be sucked out of again otherwise you'll have collapsed hoses or bursted hoses, neither very useful.

I always just forwarded it... back to the person I got it from... ha ha now you have to send it 10 more times jacka*s.

Luckily they were slow enough to dodge in most cases, that is if they didn't just fly up into the tree or into a plie of leaves and start a small fire which was easily extinguished with a half a can of "new coke". Did you know they'll still work underwater if you shoot them into a pool? It's like a torpedo with a neat trail and when it pops it makes a cool little cloud in the water. Also, they will not blow up a 1978 240 volvo when shot into the gas tank filler hose, although we wished it would, but it did make a cool hollow pop. the car was subsequently totaled when it was hit by a rogue 1970's Courier. Also if you own a 1978 240 Volvo, don't run out of gas it's a B**** to start. Kids, don't try these at home, we already did 15 years ago and they all suck.

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but she does let you take it off still... right?

I looked into it further, California already has restrictions on paint, which is why we can't get certain formulations. They can cut back more chemicals but the paint industry will just have to make do with the chemicals we have left, i.e. water and corn flour. I hope you like a flakey crust on your bare steel.

Consideration, kindness, and courtesy are on the wane, it's all part of a great cycle. We are in the Waning Gibbous of our great society it'll get worse before it gets better. The long winter is ahead, metaphorically speaking.