BrandonsZ

As for the shop, I used http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/, they didn't want to work with me cause I had a datsun, but with the little adapter from Stealth conversions they were able to just make me a driveshaft with the u-joint free on one end and the correct yolk on the other. You may not need all this though, you could probably get away with telling them what your u-joints are and what length driveshaft you need and they could make one up, but keep in mind you might want to give them your yolk becuase the balancing should be done with as much of the driveshaft intackt as possible, but the little adapter that Stealth sells is light enough that it didn't make any difference and I just pressed the thing on and it was a snap.

You need a new one, it should not cost more than $300, and of course you need a clutch pedal (pick and pull) and master (tilton 15/16 (my 7/8 is just barely enough) and clutch line Parker can help, pm me for an email contact, custom made I paid $60 but I knew the salesman. Then you'll have to modify your console a little to fit the stick, I recommend the aftermarket T-56 then you don't need the adapter for the LT1 and below, if you have an LS1 no prob. Then figure a short stick (I welded up mine custom) or a shift kit to screw a knob on, because the stock shifter does not have a knob attachment and short (really short) shift sticks are not easy to come by. Of course the mounting is different too, and no doube a biger bellhousing if you use Lakewood, more pounding. That's all, it's easy, try not to get overwhelmed.

They have manifolds that will accept multi-port injection now (just before the valves, that would be preferred over TBI, TBI is a glorified Carburator which happenes to be controlled metering through electronics IMO. You can get better efficiency though a TBI instead of a carb because carbs (if not set up right) can be sloppy. A properly tuned carb shouldn't have any trouble starting the car cold if you have a choke. It's easy to think a carb is setup right and live with a marginal setup because it works, you could probably squeeze 2 mpg with a proper dyno tune on your carb, unless you happen to have the perfect jets in there already (not likely).

If you want a headache, go with that holley, if you want predictable, sane tuning stick with the edelbrock, if have never rejetted it, you may want to consider getting a kit, rejet it one step or so and test it out. You may be plesantly surprised, or you go back to stock, edlebrock makes a nice efficient carb, with lots of good features. Holley? It has it's purposes.

you can have the driveshaft shortened for a nominal fee, but not lengthened cheaply according to my driveshaft guy. Sorry, But the T56 is an awsome tranny, and what's $300 between you and 6 speeds of fun?

Talk about a sleeper! I can see the ad campane: "not your fat aunt's festiva anymore"

Love those alien head screws, did yours have 2 eyes or 3? hehehehe Luckily I was able to drill a slot by successive hoes and remove them that way and then replace them with slotted screws. The "tool" for the 3 eyes alien screws is not cheap or readily available. Those bast*rds! what's really fun is trying to get off a torx head with the little post in the middle without buying a complete set to get the one size you need.

You don't want to file down the shapr edjes, no. And ALWAYS re-hone the cylindar. Or you'll never get these new ones to seat right, they'll work, they'll probably be fine if you have a cat you won't see the smoke, but you'll lose some power (also maybe not nitice that either.) IMO~

The booster would not exhibit the symptoms you indicated -very squishy [booster will make it squishy as opposed to not having one] -vibrating (felt like a gravely feeling, if that makes sense) [booster is all about pedal feel, if the pedal was vibrating maybe] -had to floor the pedal to get it to even try and stop [if the booster was bad, you wouldn't be able to floor the pedal if you ever had a car on a hill and you lose the booster the problem is not putting it to the floor, it's "how can I push hard enough to get it to the floor Iiiiiiiyyyeeeeeeeee...". So I think you have a caliper rpoblem, possibly warped rotors, possibly dragging pads making the rotors hot and fading them. Stop the car when it's hot and lift the front end if the wheels are hard to budge, then you've got a caliper problem, if the wheels move freely, take one off and check the pads, if the pads look good and the rotors are not scored, then it's ok. You might have a cracked pad, that would do it, or one that's gone completely.

MAN that would be sweet! Where did you get them and PLEASE send us pictures of them installed!

No trouble even at 55 and 1250rpm with the 3.36 rear. My engine does have a lot of low end torque though even though it peaks at 4000. According to the documentation, I believe it is built to have over 65% of peak at 1500, and still has very strong pull at redline, I couldn't feel any drop off which scares me considering I have no limiter yet, my previous car dropped severely near redline so you knew when to shift.

Not true, it has one purpose, as a place holder for the "1" on the stick shift. No seriusly, if you start out in 2nd (you are perfectly able to) but you have to hold the clutch a little longer, longer than the first shift and 1-2 shift combined. For drags, I'm sure 1 is helpful, in my case 1st hits 45 at 5500rpm, while 2nd goes to nearly 70 at 5500rpm with 3.36 rear and the ls1 ratios. I frequently shift 1st to third, and sometimes in neighborhoods I shift 1-4, it's a nice gear to run through the rpm quickly if you want to impress someone too, yet still be close enough for them to see/hear you. 1st to 40, 2nd to 65, POW you're on the freeway before you know what hit you, and free to shift to 6th.

As someone who still doesn't completely understand or know which rims/tires to get for my car with stock fenders, how is it that those rear tires don't scrub the fenders? Or do they? Nice pics though, it makes the car look like a showpiece instead of just a piece. ;P

I bet you have air in the master, bleed from the side of the master, not just from the lines. Also, make sure your bleed nipples are on the top of the caliper. SS lines will help too if not already in your install. I'm going with MSA vented rotor kit, I hear it's going to be plenty, but your car should stop on a dime literally.

did they work? do you think they'd work with stock 14" steel rims?

what up with the rusty headers? If they skimped there, what else?

believe it or not home depot has some selection of extension cord wire up to 6 ga, 8 ga will work well and it'll look beefy too. ~$2/ft.

... it's not much for power, but the turning radius is amazing!

dang What's going to happen when we're old and senile and don't know any better anymore? Just don't buy anything.