BrandonsZ

Asymptotic? Naaa it's actually exponential the more money you spend as time progresses the less you get from it. For example, the first 1500 gets you a whole car, then the next 3k gets you just a transmission, then the next 6k gets you just the engine, then the next 12k gets you the custom paint job... anything above that you're talking big money.

Exactly.

What's impressive is that it hooks up and runs like an arrow without any other steering. That takes a lot of smart adjustment in the rear suspension to do that. Do that with a Z and watch out.

Good ideas, if there is a problem I bet I'll hear it in the tone or smell of the exhaust. The way my exhaust is setup, a few bolts and about 5 minutes is all it takes to remove the cat and examin it. If it fails for any reason, I'll have to abandon the idea but I hope not. I'm going to check it after 1k miles. Personally I doubt backpressure is an issue based on the sund it made with just the cat on there and no other mufflers, it didn't sound much unlike having one straight pipe. And there was not even a hint of less power. I'll let you know if anything happens.

You won't regret it unless you want 20mpg or something. But then again with a modern-day carb you might just get that as well. I get 18-24 with an edelbrock 650. And it's so nice to know that there is only one electronic thing that could go wrong with the beast, the msd ignition. Not a single sensor related to performance on the whole thing. And why would you need a computer anymore? and as for wiring harness? If you are talking about thoe 6 or so odd wires that go to my engine? I don't think they need a harness, but I made one anyway.

I do notice a bit of vibration from the poly mounts. But I figured it was a free massage, in fact my feet feel great even in long trips, and don't fall asleep. Maybe I had a different attitude about it It never bothered me one bit.

I would have been the first to say, "WHAT are you NUTS????!?!?" when I thought of putting a cat on my car but after careful consideration one day as I choked on my own exhaust fumes at a stoplight with a tail wind I decided that my car could use some pollution controls. I drive it every day about 50mi and about 10 of those miles are in stop and go traffic lights. About a month ago as I was tearing up from the fumes (ok so I'm a wimp sue me) I decided to look for a high performance cat. I purchased the MPE-94109 from Summit. I figured it would not only tone down the smell but also tone down the sound (was a bit loud for my taste as well especially between 45 and 55mph where 6th just doesn't feel right and I pop into 5th it would drone like a SOB.) Well, I replaced the glasspack with the cat and immediately noticed the smell was gone, but the exhaust was actually louder then before! A cat and a flowmaster muffler were not enough to quiet the beast. So then I added a spiral flow muffler MOR-94051 and now it's nice. It's still louder than any car I hear on a day to day basis but it no longer drones or smells. Of course I didn't Dyno it, but I did not notice one bit of difference in power at WOT above 4k. We'll see about MPG and I'll report on any change there. It does smell at WOT but instead of filling the driver's compartment with gasoline smell, it is filled with what is remarkably like freshly cooked pepered eggs. Comments?

ouch! That'll be tough to weld, but not with that Lincoln welder. I think you have a good case for purchase. Not that I sell them or anything, I got mine for $1850 with all the other acc. it came closer to 3k but as you know it's innvaluable to have one on hand. I think it's a 185 not a 180, but close enough. With 100% argon shield and air cooled torch. I just fixed the muffler on my Volvo and replaced the muffler on my Z with a quieter one. On a seperate note, did you have trouble with sealing at the block? I had to install gaskets although these claim to be "gasketless".

does it grind in 3rd all the time or just above 65? It could be the diff too. IT could also be a bad U-joint on the driveshaft? The only other thing it could be is if ytou have a "lockup-type" trans and it is locking up and the clutches are slipping. You'll know if it's a lockup type because just before the noise you'll see the rpm drop slightly yet you aren't going any slower. Sorry you have a strange problem there, if you could describe it more it might be easier to diagnose.

With that much invested you could have bought a welder too, I recommend the Lincoln 180, it's blisssssss.... finally a reasonable estimate of costs.

I did not have to touch it, the T56 with bellhousing was too big to get any closer than 1" from the firewall to the (non-hei) dist. the car lowered 1/2" front and 1/2" rear with alum heads, alum waterpump, intake, etc. So It was a well balanced addition of weight. I tried to install with the engine mounts right in the center of the original holes drilled out to 1/2" but had to slot them 1/2" forward to accomodate "issues" with the big bellhousing.

I think you are asking for the moon and the stars. If you find an answer I need to know.

Orange is so nice, mine is more of a bubblegum ball orange than a citrus veritey and it's so sweet. It's close to General Lee brilliance and just a tiny bit slightly redder then the original Datsun Orange.

that and they're necessary for your front vents to work, I plugged mine with insulation not knowing and all of a sudden I got no flow through the vent hatches in the front.

check the fuel pressure, if it's under ~6psi and is still pouring out you might have a stuck float which could happen if sitting a long time with some fuel in it, clean and reassemble. If it's under 6 you don't need a reg, but if it spikes over 6 you will. The edelbrock carb is rated for 5.5psi (at least mine is).

I used to do this with my 1986 Chevy Sprint, it WAS shetty enough learn, then after I got the 1992 Prelude in 1997... Well $2000 in transmission parts can't be wrong. I unlearned clutchless immediately. Man that chevy took a beating! Stuipd California smog stole my car... actually both of them! So what if it burns a quart of oil every fillup, the oil didn't drip. And So what if it smelled like a deisel truck. and so what if it had 8X the maximum for HC emmissions it got 55-60 MPG! WTF? Ok so now you're going to tell me that an F350 with a 460 V8 getting 7MPG on a good day puts out less emmissions than my 3cyl 1.0L??? Maybe it did on a per million particle basis but that F350 has a heck of a lot more particles per mile! It's totally unfair! They should collect emmissions on a timed basis as in particles per minute instead of per million if they are going to be smart about the environment. Someday I swear I'm moving to an unincorporated area!

I actually spaced the wheels out on my Suburban with washers and absolutely no consideration to thickness, I spaced them out about 1/4" each I forget why, but I remember it took a box of washers to do it because there were 8 lugs per wheel, and I needed about 4 washers per lug. I never thought about it again till now, sold the thing in 1990.

Be careful though, they might have mis-diagnosed the problem, they are not experts, and if they spun a bearing they probably didn't take care of the engine which led to the spun bearing. Another thing to consider, not to mention the shavings in the oil which would follow a spun bearing and could cause antoher failure down the road.

I put my money on a stuck piston one side. I had the same problem and it was a stuck piston. Unbolt the caliper and take a clamp and try to press the piston in as if you were changing the pads, if it doesn't budge, get a new claiper. Be careful that it's not one of those pistonss that need to be turned to retract.

the stock steel 14" rims did not fit around the calipers, but they were only interfering by about 1/8" radially. Anecdotally, the original calipers had groves worn in them that matched the geometry of the rims, how that happened who knows but it says to me that the stock claipers are close to the S12 or S12W calipers. (I used S12W which may be even a bit bigger.)

I really don't get it, I wonder what really happened it desn't make sence to me either. But now I don't trust the 2 joints between the wheel and the hub instead of the 1 you would have normally, if I landed hard, I wonder if the wheel would bend the 2" long studs and make the wheel ride with a runout.

Is there room behind the crank flange to put a nut, perhapse you could get some longer bolts and counter tighten a nut behind? That'd be reasonable IMO. As I recall from the Chevy, there was enough room to put nuts back there. You could use super high strength loctite. You're worried about cutting your feet off, but you're putting an engine with 2X original torque in a 35 year-old car? Come on here weigh the odds. If you throw a rod on some JY engine and it rcochets back I doubt your firewall will stop it. It's a sad state of affairs though, I had a similar experiance with the crank pulley bolt I was given one that was too long and before I could even tighten it down to 30ft-lbs it stopped turning and the crank was still 1/4" spaced, so I started backing it out and it took over 50ft-lbs to walk it out, when I got it out it was so mangled on the tip I thought for sure the threads inside the crank were trash, turns out the bolt was 3/8 too long and all the threads gummed up. I ran a magnet in to take out the shavings which were were minimal and chased the threads which were luckily allright and took the torque witht he correct bolt. But what a nightmare.