NZeder

If you want to run EDIS then you could try this - pickup a 81-83 turbo dizzy then make a custom disk that is 2 x 36-1 ie 1/2 has 36-1 the other 36-1 (remember the dizzy spins at cam speed not crank speed). Or add the 36-1 behind the pulleys as Nissan did with its Crank trigger setup of the early 80's (this is how my spare L28 is setup - still has all the pulleys for A/C, PS etc - this L28 was from a Cedric/280C JDM) Here is a pic

Consider using different tie rod ends - I read on another forum somewhere (an Australian Site if I recall) that a guy used Nissan Sunny/N14 tie rods ends on the subi rack.

If I were you first thing I would do is contact your local ZClub - join up (assuming the club not just a internet forum) so you can meet existing Zed owners. They could even help you with your search for a zed (could be a members car that is for sale that is not advertised elsewhere etc). You could attend a few of there club meetings/events and go for a ride in a few different zeds ie ones with engine mods/conversions suspension mds etc. Then you will have a more first hand feel for what each mod is like etc. But the best mod I did to my 260z was suspension. When I removed my zed from the road that was the only mod that had been done still ran stock engine and flat top SU's and it went very well (as a road car - not too flash on the drag strip) seeing you are in NSW see http://www.zcarclub.com.au/

while on the topic of IAT and CLT sensors - if I was to go to the GM sensors I see there are two type of IAT open and closed element. Am I correct in that I can use the close CLT/IAT unit for a NA engine? And the open element IAT is recommended for boosted applications?

Only way to tell 100% is to drop off the rear cover. I say this as I had a LSD from long nose from ?? a JDM 300zx I believe that had a non finned cover looked like the one in the pic and was a LSD. So as stated only way to be 100% sure is to drop the back cover.

Put me down for 3 on the next batch please

George - you are looking in the wrong places - here is a pic of my new project car that I picked up last week. NZ New too - however if you are talking about a turbo S130 then you are out of luck they were not available here. However you could make one No swap's sorry too much of a zed head.

I am in the brocess if building a N/A motor for my zed. Lets say not your stock N/A overbore build up either - no stroker crank. Just a well sorted L28 (with overbore) with L28 rods and crank, triple throttle bodies and a megasquirt running of a crank trigger system. This is still a work in progress as the bottom end is still with the builder and I have not started on the head work yet. Good things take time I did think about going turbo but having never owned a turbo charged car before I thought I would stick with what I know and that is N/A even thought about a nissan v8 or custom RB30DE with triple throttle bodies but decided to stick with the L series. Maybe a future project might be a RB30DE.

Sorry to hear about that - it is a shame that the Lengine.exe has the incorrect figure and has put you on the wrong path. The L20ET and L20aE later than 1979 use these smaller rods they are not as wide, have both smaller big and little ends and as you have found dont work with the L24/26/28 cranks (yes you could machine the crank down so the big end of the L20ET rod will fit but the rod is still too thin at the journal end = still no good) If you want to have a 135mm rod there are two options as I see it (and it has/can be done) then find some early L20a/L20aE or L24/L16 rods that are 133mm then offset bush the little end to give you a 135mm rod or get the now very hard to find L14 rod which have a 136.7mm center to center length and offset bush this in the other direction to give the same 135mm. Re the L14 rods I know that can still be purchased from Nissan new as I had our local Nissan dealer price them up for me however it would be almost the same price as custom rods ($240 NZD each = $165 USD)

You do this to change the stroke more ie take a LD28 stroke of 83mm offset grind to give 84mm = more stroke = more displacement

Thanks for the offer but I got the 0.5" measurement from my RS Watanabes in the garage.

Bringing an old post back from the depth of the forum Anyway I have a question for all those out there with the JSK 12.19x1.25" setups using the Wilwood Superlite Calipers. Does anyone have this setup that is running RS Watanabe's rims? And did you have to run a spacer to ensure the calipers clear the rims? Or can someone please confirm the caliper overhang with this setup? The RS Watanabes have 0.5" clearance between the mounting face (ie the part that mates with the hub) and the spoke backs. I believe the JSK setup results in 0.75" overhang of the caliper = I will need to run 0.25" spacers can someone please assist with a pic of the overhang and some messurements Regards Mike

What did I start when purchasing one of these units (there are at least 3 here in NZ with these units now ) ok given a number have installed the belleville washers as I first stated I will be pulling mine apart one more time and I will change from the current install of (())(()) to ))(())(( however as the replacement washers I have a little thicker (should give more preload) I will need to use something to line them up correctly while torquing the halfs together Re the question about the bearing - not sure how you would remove the old ones from the original center - I have new bearings that I will be installing on the OBX center.

I have finial got my replacement belleville washers and I did try and install them in the ))(())(( order but ended up installing them in (())(()) which has the same load and deflections - I am just waiting on a new diff gasket and breather thing to come from Nissan - should be here tomorrow of the next day - then I will be painting the casing before I install the center but all looking good so far.

27 spline count? I thought the R200 used a 29 spline count - that is what all the R200 long noses I have take, the 300zx turbo shafts are 29 spline count? I would only assume the Helical ATB R-200 fitted to the Legacy would be the same as the S15 Helical ATB R-200 center (I know you guys in the US did not get the S15 but we have a lots here in NZ - so it should not be too long before these start to get wrecked) and these ATB R-200 use a 30 spline count on a 31mm shaft. So we need to find a shaft solution for the S15 ATB so the same would apply to the Subi ATB R-200.

Here in NZ we can find L20aE engines quite easy (from Fairlady Z imported from Japan both S30 and S130, also a number of other sedan Nissan cars ie Skylines, Leopards, Laurels etc however most are the later type with the longer 135mm rods (usually the L20aET engines) with the smaller journal ends (ie big ends) and pin ends (little ends)) For years we just pass them over thinking they were no good and just replaced them with L26 or L28 that we could find. But once a few of use did some research and remove a few rods we can confirm 100% that the pre 79 engine (this will garrentee they are the correct ones) are 9mm rod bolts 133mm center to center rods. Now given that the ozdat calculator and the L Series Calculator programs were made in Australia were they did not get the L20a in larger numbers I can only assume these figures they have in them are what some believe them to be or were wrong ones ie the 135mm c to c rods with the smaller ends. As we all know most L6 have a 38.10mm pin/compression height with the stock rod/crank setup - however this is not the case with the L20a they used a 40.10mm pin/compression height. All L6 (petrol) blocks are the same height = 208mm (well 207.9mm to be correct) so using the figures from ozdat (notice the L20a has -1 for the block height = might not know what it is). 69.7 stroke 128 rod and 38.1 pin height = 69.7/2 + 128 + 38.1 = should be the block height which is 207.9 but this combo is 7mm short = way wrong. Now using the figures that I know to be ture. 69.7 stroke, 133mm rod and 40.10mm pin height = 69.7/2 + 133 + 40.10 = 207.95mm bang on the money....... The reason I believe Nissan went to the longer 135mm rods in the later and turbo engines was so they could go back to the 38.10mm pin height but remember these longer rods only have the 51mm big end (not 53mm like most of the L4 and L6 range) and 19mm little end (not the normal 21mm) Hope this clears some of the misinfomation out there about the L20a blocks/rods/crank setup out there.

The L20a rods (or L20aE but must be from a pre 80's engine as the later L20aE use a longer rod 135mm center to center with the smaller big and little ends much like the later Maxima L24E vs the 240z L24) Back to the first part - L20a rods are a great choice as they will have the 9mm rod bolts have the same center to center length as the L24 rods ie 133mm and look to be the same rod infact so strenght is not a problem I thougth the ideal rod/stock ratio was 1.75 in a short stroke motor which all the L series are. The 240z has 1.80 (and I believe this is one of the reasons it like to rev). The L26/L28 have a 1.65 and the L20a a 69.7 stroke so with the 133mm rods that = 1.90 I would take to Tony D on this site about the L20a as he is now running one in the land speed car I believe and it is making good HP too.

Try these guys http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ look under bits and pieces

So to answer the question about "What flares are those?" Well they are hand made by my brother. Here is some pics for the rears getting made. As is the rear spoiler again all steel hand rolled and mig welded on the car. He has remade the fronts as I thought they were too large - I have not uploaded these pics to my site yet but I will do in the future.

You certainly can - thanks for the offer Tony and if I don't have any luck with these guys from Australia I will PM you as I need to get this OBX unit back together and into my diff (wife is telling me I need to tidy up the garage and finish my projects - I have my motorbike in bits in there too and I am looking after a 240z for our club prez, so wife wants this gone soon so my car is not sitting in the driveway)

Man those wheel from those Yahoo Auctions have some serious lip going on....anyway re the larger flares in the pic above - they look to be ZG Type B replica's. These type B flares were specifically created for the race teams back in the day I am sure HS30-H will have more details on the correct history behind why they were created and if they were homologated for racing. Anyway you can purchase these from a few places in Japan. Here is link to one such firm http://www.aritaspeed.com/catalogue/aero.html Look at the S30 section there is pics of the flares and ZG Nose kit installed on a car.

UPDATE: Well looks like mcmaster don't ship to individuals outside of the US - I got an email today to inform me of this and that they will cancel the order for the belleville washers So back to the web and phone to see what I can find locally again. Still no luck locally in New Zealand - most stock stainless steel ones that are a bit smaller or larger and only order in lots of 100 = $$$$$$$ when I only need 8. I have found a place in Australia that has the correct size - the total height is 2.80mm so I rechecked one of the originals and given the curve it is hard to get the true height using my calipers (as you can move it around at different angles to get different heights) but the height is between 2.33 and 2.8mm so once I get confirmation that they will deliver and they are the correct part I will post the info here. For those state side the belleville washers from mcmaster will be fine and most 5/8 belleville washers should do the trick if the thickness, max OD is correct.

Ok finial got off my butt to do something about my OBX unit. I ordered some new Belleville Washers from mcmaster today. The original belleville washers in the OBX units already had the black coming off them. I did the normal trick measure twice then measure again to be sure I was ordering the correct part. Here is the specs of the original washers (I took the measurements in mm so I have converted to inches as this is what mcmaster had in stock) Max Outside Diameter = 31.75mm (1.250") Min Inside Diameter = 16.0mm (0.629") Thickness = 1.6mm (0.062") Height = 2.33mm (0.092") So looking over the mcmaster online catalog the high carbon steel belleville washer that is the closest match is part number 9712K83 which as the following specs. Max OD = 1.250" Min ID = 0.63" Thickness = 0.062" Height = 0.092" Perfect just the same When I get them I plan to install in the following order. )) (( )) (( this will provide more preload than what was installed on my OBX center which was ((( )( ))) Hope this info is of use to others.

I believe some of the R32 GT-R have CLSD (not a GTR guy but I know of someone else who used one of these as it was a CLSD center) they are shortnose also not sure if the ring gear is 12mm or the odd ball 13mm.

No he meant S31. We have a few of them here in NZ and Dad had one recently (see my personal website look under galleries and you will see a section for Dad's old Fairlady with pics of the Chassis number showing the S31 and you will see it is looks the same as any old S30) so a search (can't recall if it was on here or classiszcars.com) there is a thread/post that talks about the S31 models