dr_hunt

Ahh, another sucker for the holley trash pumps, the blue, red, and black are all candidates for worst engineered product in fuel delivery of the millenium, of course, that is MY opinion of those pumps.

Unless it is a fresh bore and hone, you don't use total seal rings period, I think even total seals instruction say the same thing. The finish needs to be 500 grit IMO to make any quality ring set seat properly or go by the manufacturer spec. If you are re-ringing a used bore, it really doesn't make alot of difference what rings you put in cause the bore isn't round and the rings are.

Cool, I'll change that straight away, better to be rich than lean, I'll go 81's as well and leave the 100's in the back until I can get it on the dyno with a wideband. There are so many blow through turbo applications on the road today that I've seen. The most common seems to be Procharger folks. In reality it is the same as turbo, just that the boost is produced differently. If it works for them, then it'll work for anyone. Hanns is a book of knowledge and the more this info becomes available the better this site will be. Banks has alot of discussion about just how trick this carb is, however the nuances of the mods remain mostly hidden. I'll try it and If I'm not satisfied, I'll go C&S carb option, perhaps on alcohol.

The A/R on the turbine side on these is 1.0. I don't know about the compressor side. I'd have to take it apart to measure that, but it's kind of pointless IMO. The real test will be in the pudding. Assembling the pistons on the rods last night and I'm missing 2 tru arc's, so I'll just file the rings to fit the bores, wait for the tru arc's, install the crank and cam in the block and see if the gear drive fits. I did get the cast iron gear option on the cam for another $30 so I'm going to run stock drive gear on the dizzy. That'll be a load off my mind. Anyone need a cloyes aluminum front cover for a sbc with a BBC snout? Blower applications, kind of got rooked on EBAY last week. It'll probably take me several weeks to assemble this thing, alot of measuring and checking goes in before the label goes on. Then the turbo exhaust has to be redone where the WG's go into the downpipe. The carb hat has a BOV built in that exhausts right behind the carb but in front of the dizzy. Also it has a complete water injection system with all braided lines and a 3 gallon tank. The nozzles are right in front of the turbo inlets and look like a NOS nozzle and the tank is feed boost pressure through an orifice to push the water out during boost only. Kind of an ingenious setup that is almost foolproof. I haven't got the fuel pump yet, still shopping. Have you all experienced uneven fuel distribution with the mondo jets in the back and the stock sized in the front?

Yeah, you read the spark plugs. To do that with a new set of plugs, you run it out in high gear WOT, let off the gas, kick it in neutral and kill the ignition. Then pull the plugs and see what they look like. To check jetting, you jet for highest trap speed or best ET. Best ET is usually alittle lean and best MPH is alittle rich. The two are almost never the same jets wise. Rule of thumb is stock jets plus or minus a jet for every 2K altitude in feet. But as John Scott has mentioned its really about density air, not physical altitude which most tuners have known inside out for many years but they never share cause they want to be the only tuner in the land. The problem with too big of a DP holley is that you don't get good signal on the boosters and they don't work well, too much pump shot and too big of jets make for a dull boy and lazy car. Vacuum secondaries are great for traction limited cars like the z and they make good power like anything else if tuned right. The dual stage power valve is much too intricate of a tuning choice right now. I'd stay with the single stage until you get it running right then play with that aspect to further tune the fuel curve if need be. There is a chart for accelerator cams that tells you volume it delivers, just pick a color that increases that volume after you make sure that there is no play in your accelerator pump mechanism and that any blip of the throttle causes a "bleed" at the squirter. You want instant squirter action when the throttle is even slightly moved.

Thanks John and Hanns, I'm sure others will follow the blow through turbo route at some point with another v8 of sorts and this will definately help. I can see the fuel pressure thing being a problem. With alcohol it is critical to see the fuel pressure at the carb inlet so that is one of my gauges already, so that coupled with a good boost/vacuum gauge will definately tell me what's going on. I picked up the motor parts from Edwards today, $2700 in machine work and parts, OUCH!!! The custom billet roller with a cast iron gear looks really nice, but they didn't have that lobe offering in a 4/7 swap, so it's standard firing order for now. The vavle spring requirements were outrageous so I got new springs $350. 250# on the seat and over #600 open. Cam is 244/250 .618/.630 114LSA as delivered. A little shorter duration on the exhaust than what they had previously recommended, but they said that the Banks exhaust manifold was extremely efficient. Should be good to 8K rpm although I doubt I'll turn that much. The rotating assembly was 1900+ bobweight so it's heavy. Interesting enough the TRW pistons were perfectly balanced from the factory, absolutely no material had to be taken off any pistons! Simply amazing, they weighed 711 grams with pins and double tru arc locks on both sides. Lead slugs. I'll take some pic's as it goes together and put them in the album.

Well, in the old days, we used to turn the ignition off while driving down the road with a manual transmission vehicle. Pump the throttle a few times and then turn the key back on. Get one hell of a backfire out the exhaust. That is usually caused by a buildup of unburnt fuel in the exhaust that becomes ignited by another flame propogation or just high temps in the exhaust. In your case I would suspect a poor tune with the efi that results in a rich condition at some point in your map coupled with not enough timing. Not enough timing causes backfire on deceleration. Rich condition causes the same thing on acceleration when coupled with slow timing.

several things come to mind. 1. Accelerator pump shot not providing enough fuel or not fast enough. Cure: change accelerator pump cams, rare occasions change squirters. 2. Vacuum secondaries opening too soon, try a stiffer spring. 3. Timing When you nail it you have no vacuum so your timing will be retarded from what it would be at cruise. That's why msd's are sooo nice. Try setting timing at 35 degrees total advance with the vacuum advance plugged and see if the stumble goes away.

No, I need to know. I've decided to go with gas for now, but the fuel system is built for alcohol and I have a blow through alcohol carb and at some point I'm going to change. Banks is so secretive about the turbo's and I was finally able to get a compressor map from turbonetics, who bought out rayjay, they are an e trim T exhaust housing turbo that is a T4 flange with a 4 bolt flanged exhaust and uses a divorced BOV, unlike the T3's. All the turbo calculations, advice, experts, bench mechanics say that the turbo's won't sustain over 900HP except at 22 psi boost and the map shows that to be on the left side of the curve close to the surge limit, so I'm thinking about that real hard. Banks says they will, we'll see. Anyway, until I get all the bugs worked out, I'm going to leave the system as it was designed, mainly because I don't really know what the heck I'm doing with turbo boost and blow through carburation. So, leave it as it's engineered, I ordered the Corky bell maximum boost book, I'll learn what all you guys know, and go from there. If it turns out that I need turbo's, I'm being told that a pair of GT42's would fit nicely on there and I could boost 30psi easily on alcohol! Fuel pumps, I have several, for gas I'm going with the A1000 and the Aeromotive carb application boost referenced fpr. I have a mechanical Banks modified fuel pump also, but I like electric and for my hp level the mechanical might fall alittle short, besides with roller cams you have to have a special roller fuel pump push rod and I've had problems with those before cause back in the old days we didn't have the electric fuel pumps that are available today. Damn it sucks to be old and remember that kind of stuff.

Well, I doubt if you want to be on your death bed, wishing you could have or would have run 9's. So, if you run some 9's, then you can be doing the same thinking about the 8's. Ain't life grand!

Well, in my world, mechanical fuel injection reigns and is king of the HP world and .700+lift roller cams are the norm. And it is the "tuner" that wins the races more often than not and an O2 sensor is the last thing I'm looking for, so you are correct you have to piddle around allllloooooootttttttt. I'm not sure about big lumpy cams, but the TT EFI motor with a gazillion HP sounds really nice. I think I'll build one just for the hell of it, after all Corzette has been sending me money to buy him parts, but he never said I couldn't use them while he was gone. So, what is the concensus on EFI and big lumpy cams? I would assume that since mechanical injection works with big mondo cams that EFI would share some similarities, but I think the MAS or MAF would create problems if you have alot of intake reversion from lots of overlap. There has got to be an EFI guru here to share wisdom.

Yeah, John is right about EFI being the way to go for fuel management. I'm going to have to bite the bullet and learn all about that. The MS&S really looks like it would be alot of fun and the best way to go IMO. It's hard to comprehend changing headers, but it really is worthwhile. I've seen as much as a 20HP gain with different headers especially on the big inch small block and big inch big block chevys.

Well, if you think EFI is the cure all, then I think your missing the point. All engines regardless of how they are fed will respond to tuning and that includes header primary size, tube length, plug gap, ignition coil (yes these too), timing. There just isn't a perfect tune that you can swap from one motor to the next unless they are built identically and even then, which is showcased in the IROC series, there's always several of the identically prepared cars that outrun the rest. I've heard alot of guys say, oh, I run 84 jets in my 750 holley and it runs faster so you should run that too, cause it works for me. His cam, heads and intake may not pull the same signal on the carb as yours does and that may be the wrong jets. EFI will compensate for altitude changes, weather changes, etc, but it is just that, means you have one of the variables correct, but not necessarily the whole engine tuned to peak performance. Watch the pro stock guys tune those 500 inch NA motors on the dyno constantly trying this and that to see what gives them the edge. You hear it all the time on TV when watching NHRA about how this team or that team really has the edge in HP and is running the big numbers. It's all about tuning and everyone has something to learn about tuning, it makes the difference between winning and loosing and the difference between a smooth effortless powerplant and one that also runs.

Your right john, but tuning is really where it's at and it takes alot more than just timing and jetting. It goes to headers, cam timing, rocker arm ratio, spark plug gap and the like. For instance, I built my new 406 with afr heads. Old motor had dart 2's. Both 14:1 motors on alcohol, both had roller cams. Old motor went 12.58 at 112 mph, new motor went 12.33 at 114 mph. I was dissappointed. But with tuning and tuning alone, timing, plug gap, jetting, cam timing, change of rocker arm ratio, I got it down to 11.73 at 116 mph. That's .6 seconds with tuning alone!

Ok, that settles it, CA is out of the states to move to for whatever reason. Here in NM your car is considered an extension of your home and you can carry a loaded concealed weapon as far as I know. The law here is that if you are on your property you can carry concealed without a permit. Permit required elsewhere. We do have and anyone can get CCW permits. Several police officer friends are CCW certified instructors here in my town. I carry one most all of the time. If it isn't loaded, it isn't any good for any emergency purposes, well, sort of, depends on the crook, but thank god I've never had to experience that. Now all we need is a new private dragstrip.

V=I*R simple. Power in watts is W=V*I or =I^2*R or = V^2/R. You do the math, to get more current, ie. amps, you have to increase voltage or lower resistance. If they are capacitors, which is what they appear to be then this is "old" news and has been marketed before. I seriously doubt their claims there is no free lunch with electricity, only losses. And besides, capacitors take time to charge, which is why msd ignitions have multiple spark only below 3000 rpm, so why would these be any different, msd is firing only one plug at a time multiple times below 3K after that you just can't recharge the capacitor fast enough. Edit: Oh, and they are only $315 for 8 of them plus shipping. What a bargain! Beat your head against the wall, it'll be cheaper in the long run especially for 6 HP out of an 800HP BBC, so for a measly 300HP motor you'd net about 2.5HP for the $315. Your pet nat couldn't tell the difference and the data looks really fishy to me. The scientist with Sandia also has a part of the deal if you read through all the BS and they don't test cd ignitions as a comparison.

Well, the crooks never worry about that so why should you? Never give permission to search your car, especially when you have a gun, let alone 5 or six like I normally have. Depends on state, cops frame of mind, your attitude, your attitude, your attitude. Be legal, it feels better when you go to bed at night. That's all I can say.

Well, we don't have tornado's, we don't get hurricanes and we don't get mondo earthquakes, we are immune from tsunami's so that leaves????? Red River would be my choice, actually a summer house there and a winter house in Jamaica mon. Damn, hope those lottery tickes pay off one of these days!

If cash isn't a problem then go with a dart block, you could easily get 430 to 454 cubes, streetable insane power for about 8K with the best money can buy.

This may not be the right place, but it's here and I thought it might provide some info in case others plan on doing a blow through application someday. I was going through the Banks Holley 750cfm double pumper and freshening it up in preparation for use. The primaries had 72 jets and a 6.5 power valve which should be close considering the duration on my cam. The gaskets were all shrunk up so I replaced powervalve and all gaskets with the QFT non-stick blue ones. The secondaries had no power valve and 100 jets. Maybe Hanns can help me here what jets do you run and does that seem OK? The carb is extensively modified internally and has all kinds of holes and grooves milled on the bottom of the base plate. The motor is coming along nicely, balance job is done, got the block touch honed to get crosshatch back, got the custom roller cam, lifters, springs, heads done with new guides, valve job, flat milled .003, cometic head gaskets, and it's all ready to go later this week. I bought moroso block fill and I'm going to do a short fill on the block to stiffen up the cylinder walls. I talked to speed dreams in Alb. about getting the dyno and their tuner around later to throw it on the wheels and see if we can get it tuned properly and also get some idea of what kind of power it will be laying down. The converter should ship friday and I get one free restall if I need it. Rebuilds are $80. It is a billet converter with anti balloon plates, spragless, set up and stalled for 850HP and 700TQ right now. It'll have to be redone if I turn up the boost since it'll play hades with the stall.

I run an autolite AR3932 for the AFR heads.

Grumpy, it's deeper than that. It's misleading in that it also doesn't tell you what drive train mods are going to be necessary to make that combination work either. IMO if you put that combination together on a stock shortblock and stick it behind a stock TH350/400 with a stock converter and some 3.08 rear gears it's going to be a dog of dogs. It's not just the engine combo, it's the entire package. I also believe that to be Flywheel HP not RWHP, which would necessitate 600+HP at the flywheel. What numbers did you lay down JNJ?

Yes, I've seen 20HP gains on SBC's on the dyno.

A common fact that has to be remembered is that there is no free lunch. If you have a motor that makes 300HP and another motor of the same type that makes 500HP, the one that makes 500HP is going to wear parts faster. And by that I mean rings, bearings, heads, valve springs, and is generally going to stress parts harder and all this necessitates more frequent freshening and/or rebuilding to maintain peak performance and reliability. What you do is build 6 or 7 motors and swap them out every 15K to 20K miles and then freshen or rebuild the ones you take out. That'll keep you in the game at the peak all the time. If you can't afford that then knock on wood and stay in good graces with the MAN upstairs.

That article is alittle dated. There is magic with the 3.25 inch stroke. Nascar has been running that combination for years, ie. sb2.2, turning 9500 rpm and beyond for 500 miles. You can build the same thing, but I'd leave the ford rods in the trash and go with some good 6.2 inch units from eagle, manley, oliver, carrillo and the like. Eagle makes cranks, others do as well. It would be a good build. Afr still makes great heads and they flow better now than they did back then.